Warren Harding interview, Rock and Ice #7

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marty(r)

climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 10, 2012 - 02:51pm PT
From Rock and Ice Number 7, March 1985 (cross-posted with the Porcelain Wall thread)








Does Neal Kaptain lurk here? I only met him once, bouldering at the Joe Brown Boulder at Roubidoux, maybe 1989 or 90. He must've had fun with this. Too bad Galen isn't around to chime in.

Side note, could the caption be right for that image of Harding on the Moose's Tooth? That doesn't seem like a climate that'd be forgiving of Daisy Dukes. Then again, Batso was harder than most.
Norton

Social climber
the Wastelands
Mar 10, 2012 - 03:43pm PT
Thanks for posting that article, Marty.

Harding was always one funny and interesting character.

Good read, thanks!
klk

Trad climber
cali
Mar 10, 2012 - 03:49pm PT
neal has done some drive-bys.

he's not likely to become a regular poster.

heh
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Mar 10, 2012 - 04:43pm PT
Great find Marty!

To save my neck you really need to upright scan each page or rotate the double page ones.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Mar 10, 2012 - 05:25pm PT
"I don't give a rat's ass if someone chops my route...I'm not building highways."

Damn, I love that guy.
marty(r)

climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 10, 2012 - 06:16pm PT
The photos are all upright on my screen. What gives? Try hitting refresh on your browser. If that doesn't work I can try to reload them. Sorry about that.
wildone

climber
EP
Mar 10, 2012 - 06:42pm PT
Thank you SO much! One of the most entertaining interviews I've ever read. I wish climbers today wouldn't take themselves and everything else so goddamned seriously. It's ridiculous. If you can't laugh at yourself, and the absurdity of everything that we take so seriously, like Warren could, you're missing out on a lot of laughs in this short life we have.

Semper Farcissimus!!!!!!!!!
klk

Trad climber
cali
Mar 10, 2012 - 06:53pm PT
that early run of rock&ice that neal did was pretty remarkable for a punk upstart journal.

jim holloway to warren harding.
Kalimon

Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
Mar 10, 2012 - 11:06pm PT
Thanks marty(r)!

All hail to the great Warren! What a character, what a tough dude.

Interesting question regarding the Mooses Tooth caption with Harding climbing shirtless and in Daisy Dukes . . . must be a typo. But then again in the right conditions . . . who knows? I think he looks like a solid free climber in that photo, immortalized in space and time. I read "Downward Bound" in my formative years and have never been the same since.
Jan

Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
Mar 10, 2012 - 11:48pm PT
Great find!

Warren is one of my all time favorite climbing characters.

Always entertaining, always accessible.


Dirk

Trad climber
QUEENS NEW YORK
Mar 11, 2012 - 03:00am PT
Thank you for posting this. God bless Batso.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Mar 11, 2012 - 03:20am PT
Thanks for the correction Marty!

Great Batso material.
mark miller

Social climber
Reno
Mar 11, 2012 - 03:30am PT
One of my early partners was an et al. on that climb and also on the fiasco on the nose reunion......I miss Warren....
pimp daddy wayne

Gym climber
Manchester, VT
Mar 11, 2012 - 01:11pm PT
Nice one!!!
Ryan Tetz

Trad climber
Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 11, 2012 - 06:41pm PT
Awesome wish I would have got to see one of his slide shows!
zip

Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
Mar 12, 2012 - 09:11am PT
i have a very good copy of this mag for sale.

elcap-pics

Big Wall climber
Crestline CA
Apr 4, 2012 - 02:28pm PT
Good stuff! I met Warren back in 69 and hung out with him from time to time BITD. He had a great sense of humor and was friendly to all climbers. I miss him still. Thanks for the post, I hadn't seen the interview before.
Don Lauria

Trad climber
Bishop, CA
Apr 4, 2012 - 03:06pm PT
Three things:

1. Warren's pointing in the direction of the wine re-fills.

2. It's Susie Condon, NOT condom (an inexcusable typo)!

3. Is the $2.00 price still good? If not, how much will it take?
Don Lauria

Trad climber
Bishop, CA
Apr 4, 2012 - 10:14pm PT
Bump for Susie
eagle

Trad climber
new paltz, ny
Apr 5, 2012 - 06:12pm PT
great article. i was always more of a harding fan than a robbins fan.
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