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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 16, 2012 - 02:43pm PT
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Where do I find out more info on what has been established and where on Castle Domes? Mt. Bago? The Sphynx? Any guidebooks? Internet? Anything?
Trying to plan something interesting for summer...or future..
Thank you.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2012 - 03:51pm PT
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Thank you Nate. Did you ever make your way up there?
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Feb 16, 2012 - 03:56pm PT
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You might wish to check out the Gorge of Dispair......more then enuf rock to keep one occupied for a few decades.....
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2012 - 04:16pm PT
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Where do I get info on Gorge of Despair?
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Gene
climber
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Feb 16, 2012 - 04:20pm PT
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Where do I get info on Gorge of Despair?
Secor has several pages describing the GoD. Also, I believe Ksolem has posted on the Taco about the area.
Best,
g
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Feb 16, 2012 - 05:24pm PT
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Kris Solem has some info on the Gorge of Despair on summitpost. Also, I'd check some old AAJ journals for info re Mt. Bago, etc. I remember reading about a long II or IV, 5.7 on Mt. Bago that described a long rib with orange chickenheads like Charlotte Dome.
"Adventure is out there!"
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Gene
climber
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Feb 16, 2012 - 05:34pm PT
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I remember reading about a long II or IV, 5.7 on Mt. Bago that described a long rib with orange chickenheads like Charlotte Dome.
I'd love to hear about that line on Mt. Bago. I have a very vague recollection that the arete never exceeds 6 feet in width. The only description I have is from Roper:
At least one technical route has been done: from the meadow one will notice a very orange buttress split by a huge dihedral. The route ascends the right-hand skyline for 1,000 feet on excellent rock. IV, 5.7
Roper is such a tease.
I can imagine few things more fun than base camp in the area, hit the Bago route and Charlotte Dome. That would be a blast!
g
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Feb 16, 2012 - 05:46pm PT
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The Mt. Bago route is one that was reported in the AAJ. That used to be the only place to learn about things like the Mithral Dihedral, etc., at least before there started being guidebooks for every place. Lots of good info buried in those old AAJs. Isn't the AAJ's library available digitally for members?
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2012 - 06:33pm PT
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Did you even look at Summitpost?
http://www.summitpost.org/gorge-of-despair/152446
http://www.summitpost.org/mount-bago/740015
http://www.summitpost.org/the-sphinx/154841
There is only the Secor book, and the Seki rockclimbing guide. You should have a copy of those. AAJ has stuff too. It takes homework to know what has been climbed or not. If you're looking to do FA's, the best way is to go there yourself on a dayhike and scope lines that interst you, then research if they have seen an ascent.
Yes, I checked all of those before posting. SP pages mention there are 2 technical routes on Bago but do not have any indication where. MP doesn't have any info on them. Page for Gorge of Despair gives good approach beta, but info for where the climbs are and presence of description of routes is terrible (2 climbs that have good description are 11c and 12a...lol not for me). SP mentions there is no routes up the face on the Sphynx. I thought it was most likely b/s and wanted to see if someone here knew of any/done any?
If there is limited info on SP/MP it doesn't mean people do not climb those. So if anyone climbed any of the lines in AAJ or anything else please do share...
I went through Kings Canyon last year when my friend and I climbed Charlotte dome. I liked that place a lot, and thought there must be a lot of rock climbing there. I TRIED to research, but did not find great quality info, that's why I started the thread.
PS: I am AAC member, so I guess I should check the library. Have never done that before.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2012 - 06:42pm PT
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For sure will make my way up to this Tower of Delphina and will attempt to find that arete. Sounds super fun.
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Mic
climber
Boulder, CO
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Feb 16, 2012 - 06:51pm PT
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If you are an AAC member, you can check out books from the library here in Golden. They send you the book and then you just have to pay return shipping. They have a copy of the Sequoia/Kings guidebook which is out of print and absurdly expensive. It has information on routes like Silmarillion on Castle Dome, put up by Jack Roberts, who unfortunately just pasted away.
--Mike Skaug
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Feb 16, 2012 - 07:15pm PT
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Go there and report back.
Stop planning and start doing.
That's what being in the mountains is all about.
Some places should be explored, not researched.
Get the Secor guide and leave it at that.
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Feb 16, 2012 - 07:27pm PT
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The old Roper guide has good info on most of the towers in the GOD.... all are 5th class.... Kris and I did one of them. corporalie or something like that... we did the 3rd ascent 1st by Ax Nelson and friends in like 1955 , 2nd by a Couple from NZ... 1967 .... Us ... 1997 .... about 5.7 or so...
That was just ONE formation, by the EZ line..... if that sucker was close by a road it would have about 50 ways to top.
Big adventure.....
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Feb 16, 2012 - 07:40pm PT
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If you're looking to do FA's, the best way is to go there yourself on a dayhike and scope lines that interest you, then research if they have seen an ascent.
A dayhike to the Gorge of Despair is a monster proposition. 24 mile r/t hike w about 6K or more gain going in, and 2K coming out and that just gets you a view of the place, not really close to any formations to size 'em up.
Stop planning and start doing.
I always plan before I do. This has really paid off many times. But I hear what you're sayin'.
Topo's??
I have put up everything you need to know about the GOD on Mtn Project & SP. One thing you don't need there is a topo. I'll give you this though: Take double ropes, 2 8.5mm x 60M. Take a light emergency bolt kit if you want to try any of the big hard routes. Take some old "leaver" gear, nuts or whatever for descents. Do a couple of the classics before embarking on an FA.
Vitaly, the Gorge of Despair is full on brilliant. Perfect rock. Huge approach. Logistics & commitment. If you get interested I could be talked into it depending on the timing. If you have a partner I'll be the mission photographer / videographer.
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