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e9climbing.blogspot.com
Mountain climber
Alps (Euro trash )
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 11, 2011 - 12:25pm PT
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Just super cool and super inspiring to read this story from the Ukraine/Russina girls who established a new route on Trango. For sure some fly under the radar that said they deserve no less credit!
http://russianclimb.com/trango_girls.html
I lift my hat!
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Dec 11, 2011 - 12:34pm PT
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Awesome achievement! I just threw my hat in the air.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Dec 11, 2011 - 12:35pm PT
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Wow!
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Dec 11, 2011 - 12:42pm PT
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Three HOT climbing chicks
Well done ladies on one of the biggest baddest walls on the planet.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Dec 11, 2011 - 12:48pm PT
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RC: How much down gear did you have on the wall?
Girls: We had one down jacket. One down vest. And one down blanket for all three of us. But it was hard in 10-days bad weather upper than 5500 m... no visibility, no sun, depressive mood...
RC: How much cognac did you have?
Girls: Pity, but we took few: and drank during first 2 weeks...
RC: Did you have cosmetics with you on the route?
Girls: We had one cosmetics kit for all of us. - 5 kg :) - creams, masks, etc.
Bwah-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha!! Proud ascent, like two El Caps stacked on top of each other. Looks like horrific slabby hauling up the first bastion.
Next time, girls - bring more down and cognac, and maybe less cosmetics.
If you ever want to try a warm wall, come to Yosemite and we'll talk.
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Prod
Trad climber
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Dec 11, 2011 - 01:04pm PT
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VI+, 7b, б3
Someone wanna translate this?
VI+ = a long time
7b = 5.14?
63 = ?
Thanks
Prod.
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e9climbing.blogspot.com
Mountain climber
Alps (Euro trash )
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 11, 2011 - 01:19pm PT
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VI+ is over all serious grading
7b should be about 5.12B
the last thing might be a Russian thing and I think it is wrong it should be 6B, not 63, 6b is a form of Russian Big Wall grade
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Prod
Trad climber
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Dec 11, 2011 - 01:27pm PT
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Thanks,
Did they free or is the 63/ 6b an aid rating? If what does that translate to?
Prod.
PS. Awesome TR to the girls!
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pc
climber
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Dec 11, 2011 - 01:39pm PT
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Great! Kick Azz.
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e9climbing.blogspot.com
Mountain climber
Alps (Euro trash )
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 11, 2011 - 01:46pm PT
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I'm not that familiar with the russian grading for big walls. But I guess it was free at 7b as no Aid grade was given.
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Dec 11, 2011 - 02:20pm PT
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looks like a lot of water to be found on that thing, otherwise how the hell do you haul 38 days of water? food? i once read that after 30 plus days on a wall a dude was covered with body cheese, how awful for girls who have different "hardware". gawd damn, 38 days?!?!
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WBraun
climber
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Dec 11, 2011 - 02:24pm PT
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Who cares what ever the rating is
They're tough and climbed that monster.
Yikes !!!! is that thing big and gnarly ......
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jahil
Social climber
London, Paris, WV & CA
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Dec 11, 2011 - 02:40pm PT
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This is so inspiring - Always wanted to climb there - must remember to bring my makeup.
steve
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e9climbing.blogspot.com
Mountain climber
Alps (Euro trash )
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 11, 2011 - 02:51pm PT
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Its an outstanding feat no matter what the grade is. Just to se other teams come and go must be so hard on the brain. You need lots of will and power to hang in there.
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go-B
climber
Habakkuk 3:19 Sozo
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Dec 11, 2011 - 03:19pm PT
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Awesome, high altitude dancing with the stars, Marina Kopteva, Anna Yasinskaya, and Galina Chibitok, doing Da Tango with Da Trango!
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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Dec 11, 2011 - 03:38pm PT
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Amazing!
That looks like a class A route by a hardcore team.
Look what you can do if you aren't spending every moment on Supertopo...
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Dec 11, 2011 - 04:59pm PT
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Look what you can do if you aren't spending every moment on Supertopo... best quote ever
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Nohea
Trad climber
Living Outside the Statist Quo
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Dec 11, 2011 - 07:11pm PT
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That is some adventure! Mahalo for posting up that would be MFPU!
Aloha,
will
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laughingman
Mountain climber
Seattle WA
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Dec 11, 2011 - 09:44pm PT
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Real big wall climbing...
Valley bums take notice...
The big wall universe is not just Yosemite there are lots of places to big wall climb...
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Dec 11, 2011 - 09:52pm PT
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Excellent TR - thanks for sharing this. Cool climb.
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