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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 3, 2011 - 02:04pm PT
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Norton Smithe was a british gentleman who climbed in and around the Gunks during the 1950's. In addition to pioneering early free routes, Norton designed and fabricated the first modern ring-less standard angle piton that I am aware of- the so called Smithe angle.
These beauties were likely produced commercially starting around 1950. They are nicely formed from sheet steel but clearly not a more durable alloy.
Norton Smithe began establishing routes in 1952. His Gunks list.
Petie's Spare Rib 5.4 in 1952 with Doug Kerr (Petie is one of Bonnie Prudden and Dick Hirschland's daughters)
Hornet Rocks 5.5 in 1953 with Cecil Grace and Steve Jervis
Casa Emilio 5.2 in 1953 with Bonnie Prudden
Three Blind Mice 5.6 in 1954 with Doug Kerr and Ted Church
Double Chin 5.5 in 1954 with Doug Kerr
Belly Roll 5.4 in 1955 with Doug Kerr
Laurel 5.7 done with Thornton Read sometime in the 50's
When Hans Kraus was first trying to aid climb up Bonnie's Roof, he got stopped and decided to come down. After a lengthy debate Bonnie insisted on giving the route a go after a very heated "What harm could it do if I try?"
Bonnie pushed right on through to bag her best lead on the ultra classic route that bears her name. What she had as a secret weapon that Hans did not was a Smithe angle. She showed it to me proudly when she was telling the story. Bonnie's Roof went up in 1952 so my source date would be around 1950-51 at the latest. Dick Hirschland would have had to have purchased the angle from Norton Smithe which would likely have taken a season or so.
Any insight into this interesting Brit would be fabulous. Bonnie didn't recall much about Norton despite one route together. These angles showed up in an ebay auction from the Boston area which is likely where Norton had them made. Other people were certainly working on this piton design and I would love to see any other contenders for 1950! The blacksmith for Holubar was also active along with Yvon, Dolt and Dick Long, so the race is on!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Steve's angle with these threads is always pretty clear, and worthwhile.
I knew of soft steel ring angle pitons going back to the war or before, but somehow had the impression that Salathe, Long or Chouinard came up with the modern variety. Evidently not.
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DanaB
climber
Philadelphia
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There are still a few of these in-situ at the 'Gunks.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 3, 2011 - 07:54pm PT
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Big improvement over a ring angle.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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What is the width dimension?
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Steve: Astounding.
Looks very much like a Chouinard Angle.
I find that "design breakthroughs" sometimes happen in multiple places.
But 10 years earlier?
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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I have a John Salathe piton and one each of the first two incarnations of the Lost Arrow and the lineage of the three is unmistakable.
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Hey Ron, show us some closeups of that Salathe pin. Is it an angle or LA?
Nice pin and story Steve.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Nice little slice of history Steve.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 4, 2011 - 12:32pm PT
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Oddly enough, Smithe only made one size piton, the 3/4" standard angle and didn't think about larger placements.
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rockjockrob
Boulder climber
Tempe, Arizona
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I have US Army Ring angles and holubar pins from this era, but this is certainly the oldest standard angle I am aware of.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Good work, Steve.
I found a very rusted example of this angle in the Bugaboos some years ago, at the base of Pigeon SE arete.
I saw the auctions on ebay (January 13) with 16 of these, too (I didn't bid).
I've wondered for awhile who made it!
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R.B.
Big Wall climber
Land of the Lahar
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My dad had a contract with the US Army in the 1950's to make ring angle pitons by the five gallon bucketfuls. He ran an iron shop in AZ.
Does the ring have a spot weld on it?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 19, 2011 - 10:12pm PT
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That isn't a ring. It is a carabiner with rust to match. I bet Jim McCarthy would like it back too. LOL
R.B.- Does your dad still have the drawings that he was sent as specification or did the government simply hand him a ring angle and ask him to make a bunch?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 19, 2011 - 10:16pm PT
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Nope...
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Apr 19, 2011 - 10:39pm PT
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Like Steve said, it's a big rusted steel biner in that Smithe angle I found in the Bugaboos.
The photos above are just cropped, which is obvious, right?
Here is a less cropped version, in case there is interest in rusted steel biners... :-)
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2011 - 02:16pm PT
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Clint- I would be interested to learn who made that pear biner if there is anything left of the manufacturer's stamp under the rust layer.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Apr 20, 2011 - 03:49pm PT
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Steve,
> I would be interested to learn who made that pear biner if there is anything left of the manufacturer's stamp under the rust layer.
Cassin - the logo is still quite plain - capital letters CASSIN , in a C-shaped outline (same as most of their later biners).
Thanks for asking; I had not thought of looking at it before.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 1, 2011 - 11:49am PT
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Pearabiner Bump!
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!