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audiobahn1000
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 2, 2011 - 01:12pm PT
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"Most climbing in Yosemite is traditional climbing where you climb cracks and place your own gear. Since Yosemite is not an ideal place to learn traditional climbing, have your gear placing, anchor-setting, and rope-managing skills dialed before visiting."
http://www.supertopo.com/climbingareas/yosemite.html
Says C Mac. But why? Here I thought granite was as good as it gets for trad climbing, man I guess I got it backwards, time to go craging at some soft sandstone crag! Last time I was there I thought it was a pretty damn good place to start trad climbing, better than most.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Truth is, there ain't much in The Valley for learning the game. Sure, there's a handful of easier climbs, but they tend to be the schwag between the real lines.
So let's see, where would you go in Yosemite to teach trad techniques:
1) Grack Center
2) 1st pitch of Jam Crack
3) ?
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anees
climber
temporary exile from the land of enchantment
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I think he's referring more to style of climbing than the rock quality. The paucity of good easy (<5.6) routes, the non-intuitive climbing style with its emphasis on smearing and jamming, the low angle of the rock that makes falls potentially more dangerous...
The Gunks is the best place I've ever seen to learn traditional climbing. Excellent rock with tons of fun routes at every difficulty level including 5.easy, very natural monkey-bar-style climbing on big holds, relatively straightforward gear placements, and so steep that even on the easy routes its often pretty safe to take falls.
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WBraun
climber
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If you want to learn traditional climbing you need to put whole life into it.
Otherwise
You'll just end up being a climber and reading and thinking all this climbing garbage.
Traditional climbing has nothing to do with rock, alpine nor ice climbing.
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
Swimming in LEB tears.
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Truth is, there ain't much in The Valley for learning the game. Sure, there's a handful of easier climbs, but they tend to be the schwag between the real lines.
I realize that people get snobby once they know what they're doing but I can remember pretty clearly thinking that basically any climb was a good climb back when I was shaking in my boots on 5.5's not sure if any of my pro was worth a damn. Yosemite has ample easy climbing suited for learning but you run into trouble with descents and the low numbers of single pitch climbs.
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SeanH
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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In my limited experience, in the area, Lover's Leap is a better venue for learning.
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wildone
climber
Troy, MT
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The valley is where I learned everything, and I'm not dead yet.
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Sonic
Trad climber
Central Coast, California
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Yep I learned in Yosemite when my buddy dragged me up Royal Arches. It was my first multipitch. He handed me the gear and so go! Im doing just fine now.
I definitely agree to have your anchor and placements down before going to the Valley. Makes life way easier. There's plenty of good places to find cracks and to practice placing gear, (no need to think dirty for this one.
I used to practice placing cams in the gap between the wall and fridge.
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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I think this premise is hogwash.
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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I can't get my head around the idea that Yosemite is is not a good place to learn to climb. This is not editorial: I learned to lead there and don't have any useful information to compare alternatives. What makes other areas better?
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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I think Chris may have been referring to crowds, like please don't come to the valley and clog up the routes with your 3 hour 5.7 leads.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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I'm like Roger, Warbler, and many others -- I learned leading, aid and multi-pitch climbing in the Valley, so I have no alternative to which to compare. All I know is that the easier climbs I learned on are still there.
I think Karodrinker is probably on the right track, though. I interpreted that admonition to be to gym or sport climbers who had never climbed in a place like the Valley before to be aware that leading a first Valley 5.7 isn't necessarily the same experience as a sport- or gym-climbing 5.9.
John
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HalHammer
Trad climber
CA
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You guys learned a different standard back then. We can only be envious now. People are looking more for things like the first pitch of jamcrack now days with big racks of cams etc. Sit down on a piece if you want falling is okay etc for beginner. Things like bishop's terrace are big goals for a lot folks. Many trad climbers learning aren't young guns firing anymore. Especially considering the amount of cams $ it takes to sew up the first pitch of jamcrack.
That leaves a small handful of 5.6 routes in the valley to try after doing Aunt Fanny's Pantry.
Perhaps if a new guidebook would come out this century instead of our 17+ year old one (outdated by almost every other major climbing areas' standard) we could highlight many more 5.6 routes in general and demystify all the spooky reputation routes that OMG it isn't in Supertopo nooooooo I just wet myself 3 times thinking how scary it could be if it isn't in SUPERTOPO!!
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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I must have climbed the Harry Daley Route on Monday Morning Slab 50 times.
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Mimi
climber
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Yes, I believe Chris has been misunderstood and he doesn't mean to not learn to climb on granite or in the Valley. No way. Anyone learning to climb in Yosemite will become a very capable climber. The crowds are a growing concern and how long a party takes. Kinda like hackers on a golf course holding everyone up. Granite is very difficult to learn on if you lack real rock non-sport climbing experience. Seek out the lower grade climbs and gauge yourself. Learn to climb on nuts and hexes and gradually throw in a few cams. Then you will be a GUD climber. Develop your skills, don't just plug cams or clip bolts.
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TomT
Trad climber
Aptos.
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my first leads and first climbs in Yosemite 1970 (Mark Rodell and I split leads we had no one to lead us - using the old red book had to find these climbs
Monday Morning Slab 5.2
Overhang bypass Lower Cathedral (was 5.6 now harder since death slab fell) 6-7 pitches -did it three times
AFter Six 5.7, After Seven
East Arete Lower Brother (5.5) 5-6 pitches did it twice
West Face lower Brother 5.5
Grack Center 5.6 3 pitches - did it 3 times
Point Beyond 5.7 several pitches
Munginella 5.6 3 pitches
Roya Arches 5.6 lots of pitches did it twice
Cathedral Peak 5.6lot of times in two years
Snake Dike 5.7
then started in on the 5.8s
Jam Crack at the falls ist pitch
Harry Daley
Bishops Terrace
Nut Cracker
the five books at the falls (Comittment et al)
Braille Book
Split Pinnacle Arete
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Mimi
climber
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What a list, Tom. Exactly right.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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I am new to leading, and trying to make a list to advance. My first lead ever was Snake dike, and in the valley I did 1st P of Jam crack(followed a lot more in the valley, and led other climbs at lovers leap). Snake dike seemed a bit soft compared to jamcrack(and other 5.7 climbs I followed in the valley), even though that wasn't too bad neither. Which climbs should I try doing next? I am thinking about Pine line, pot belly(+other stuff at knob hill), grack, munginella, royal arches, and maybe Bishop's terrace, Harry Daly, after 6 after I get a bit better..thoughts(except 'you gonna die')?
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sac
Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
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Whaaaaatever...
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bergbryce
Mountain climber
Oakland
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Personally I think if you learned to climb trad in the Valley, you've got a leg up on those that didn't. The climbing is humbling. Featureless, flarey, rounded, granite is tough and according to the guidebook there isnt a whole lot for a beginner to choose from.
Id love to see more suggestions for beginners routes that aren't in the Reid guide (thanks in advance)
I was/still am being humbled by the perfect Valley granite! It' would certainly be a tougher place to learn trad than say Red Rocks or even other granite areas like the City.
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