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fresh pow
Boulder climber
phoenix
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 23, 2011 - 09:14pm PT
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I know that the choice of climbing shoes is a subjective one. I have always climbed in Boreal shoes but I am now considering bailing on them and going with Sportivas or Five Tens, for two reasons. Boreal is totally absent in the climbing media and they are almost impossible to find. Any thoughts or sugestions about performance or availability? Thnks.
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Brian
climber
California
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Mar 23, 2011 - 10:00pm PT
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I'd pay $150 or more for a new pair of the original Aces. Best shoe I've ever worn.
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Steve L
Gym climber
SUR
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Mar 23, 2011 - 10:03pm PT
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JT Nomad has a sweet pair of Spiders in the consignment bin. Practically brand new. 70 bucks I think.
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NigelSSI
Trad climber
B.C.
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Mar 23, 2011 - 10:21pm PT
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I was under the impression that there is no North American distributor for Boreals. At least that's what I was told at a few Canadian shops when looking to pick up a pair a few years back. They generally fit my feet pretty well, so I was rather disappointed.
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Brandon-
climber
Done With Tobacco
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Mar 23, 2011 - 10:37pm PT
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This disappoints me. My Aces were one of the best pair of shoes I have ever had.
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JMC
climber
oilfields of Sumatra
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Mar 23, 2011 - 10:49pm PT
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Brian - what size? If 8UK/9US, let's talk...
Great shoes, but their rubber was inconsistent and usually sh!t (breakthrough sticky rubber of the 1980s excepted.) Early batches of Fusion S2 were awesome, but after that? hard, slick, worthless. I would buy a pair, then send them to Rock and Resole for C4 to make them usable. No idea what their current, "FS-Quattro" is like.
Aces, Indos, Lasers - bitchin'.
Current lineup is here - http://www.e-boreal.com/ing/comienzo.htm
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Mar 23, 2011 - 11:01pm PT
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I have a pair of unclimbed-in Aces, still virgin new. Prolly size 43 or 44. Interested?
Also a similar pair of Fires.
Boreal shoes just don't fit my feet that well.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Mar 23, 2011 - 11:05pm PT
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I've bought four pairs of nearly new or unused Aces off ebay the last couple of years. Resole with some C4 and they are still awesome shoes!
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Mar 23, 2011 - 11:11pm PT
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I've become the Imelda Marcos of climbing shoes trying to find a suitable shoe, now that Mariacher's aren't very available. I like the fit of my Mythos, but they aren't stiff enough to fit my edging style of climbing; I have both Tradmasters and TC Pros that I need to break in and see if they'll get me where I need to go.
I have a very narrow foot, and my big toe is longest toe. No arch remaining after the Army got done with me.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
The Seas of Stone.
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Mar 23, 2011 - 11:44pm PT
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I find the newer five tens are more my foot shape.
I wore all sorts of Boreals before. Loved my Ballets.
Meh.
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fresh pow
Boulder climber
phoenix
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 23, 2011 - 11:49pm PT
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I would like to see them have a presence in American climbing. I look at what shoes climbers are wearing in pictures because that says a lot. Everyone wears Sportivas. So are there performance issues? Is the FS Quatro rubber any good? I know Boreal has been good in the past. So are they good now and in the future?
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Mar 24, 2011 - 12:17am PT
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Boreal is all over Europe and seems common enough in the UK. Don't know about Canada.
Just not competing hard in the US market.
Scarpa and Mammut and Red Chili are also much easier to find in Europe. Just as you don't see a lot of Evolv or Acopa in Europe.
It isn't easy to find the e-tail section on Boreal's website-- not surprising Del couldn't find it.
But the rest of the website itself is actually pretty useful-- good 360s, an unusually helpful sizing guide, and mostly easy to use
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JMC
climber
oilfields of Sumatra
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Mar 24, 2011 - 12:22am PT
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So are they good now and in the future? Yes, in the future, Boreal will own the media. The monkeys will be sending in only Boreals. In a push. no dabs.
And everyone will eat at Taco Bell.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
The Seas of Stone.
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Mar 24, 2011 - 12:24am PT
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Beak, beak, hook, free move.
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fresh pow
Boulder climber
phoenix
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 24, 2011 - 12:41am PT
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Boreal. World domination? That's cool. Taco Bell? Gag. Yes MT I am a mindless consumer that will follow pretty girls in rock shoes over the abyss into sweet oblivion. My real concern is the perfomance of Boreal rock shoes and what the climbing community thinks of them. I am interested in honest opinions.
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Chinchen
climber
Way out there....
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Mar 24, 2011 - 01:20am PT
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Man I miss my Vectors!
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
SoCal
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Mar 24, 2011 - 01:31am PT
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I have pair of 1985 Fires for sale $50. Size 9 US. Barely used. The rubber is a bit dried so a rebuild with C4 is in order.
I'm keeping the size 9 Ballet Points rebuilt with C4. I seem to use them as loaners to friends all the time.
I still have my Fire Cats. Going in for their 5th rebuild soon.
Boreal seems to make shoes that fit my narrow feet better than others. 5.10s are too wide for me but the rubber is beyond compare.
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Mar 24, 2011 - 02:30am PT
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John Bachar and Mike Graham were the original US distributors of Boreals. They parted ways and one of my buddies from high school, and a friend of Mike's, Steve West, took over as US distributor.
If I am not mistaken, Mike used the money from his share of the sale of the distributorship to start the original Gramicci line. Maybe Mike can fill in the details.
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