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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 9, 2011 - 01:04am PT
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quick trip up to the Valley... always interesting in the winter because quite often you find a great day amongst the angst of deciding...
On the trip across on SR-120 off of I-5 there was no fog, so Merced was the route to avoid any possible chain requirement going over Crane Flat... it turned out that chains were required, and perhaps in the Valley proper, but staying west I avoided that annoyance completely.
The Valley die-hards were there, I was meeting ablegabel, but found scuffy_b first... John and susu also made the trip... but it was a slow start to get going, Eric and I opting for some cragging...
...sitting around talking and drinking coffee, we witnessed a missile attack on San Francisco in the AM, suspect it was launched from the heartland someplace... you can tell because the missiles have vapor trails that look like they're moving in spirals...
It was a "blue bird" day, though a bit chilly to start, but when we finally got going we were in T-shirts and working up a sweat...
...I lead a new 5.8 (someone else's route), Eric follows...
...and Eric following again, at the wild crux of another new 5.8 (this one was Eric's, he put me on it to confirm the rating, both the technical aspects and the 5.fun nature... it was fun!)...
...with the cloud cover starting to fill in. The temps dropped... we started working on another FA, wonderful climb if it weren't for the water dripping down, and the cooling off!
Back at the Reed's pullout it was an Alpine Wonderland... the ice is in and fat everywhere
and the setting sun casting alpenglow high on Reed's
turning west, it is hard to imagine how lucky I am to be able to experience such wonder as a sunset in Yosemite in the winter after a day of climbing
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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A shame about SF. I'll upload the photos I took from the roof of BIW of the carnage... as soon as True Grit is over.
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john hansen
climber
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Great shots Ed.
That's the thing about pictures ..
You have to be there to get them.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
leading the away team, but not in a red shirt!
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Right on, Ed. I thought at first this was a bumped page from the past, too.
Sly Monkey. Regards.
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Thorgon
Big Wall climber
Sedro Woolley, WA
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Way to get after it Ed, et al.
That picture of the "missle" vapors is one of the best ever!
Thor
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Beautiful photos!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Where is the new 5.8??? Can you tell?
I've done a couple of Eric's routes, usually pretty stout at the grade.
Nice pics!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 9, 2011 - 04:07pm PT
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you all can always contact ablegabel for route information, I'm not at liberty to provide information regarding the details of his routes
they are stout for the grade, but because the routes require a full range of climbing skills: route finding, protection placement, proficiency at a wide range of techniques, boldness on lead...
The climbs are usually in undeveloped areas with a number of objective "dangers" such as loose rock, dirt and vegetation... which are not always cleaned thus preserving the natural settings of the routes. Finally, information is not widely distributed often to keep traffic down...
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Johnny K.
Mountain climber
Southern,California
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Sweet stuff Ed!
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Gary Carpenter
climber
SF Bay Area
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"Finally, information is not widely distributed often to keep traffic down..."
To preserve the loose rock, dirt and vegetation I assume
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 9, 2011 - 09:27pm PT
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actually yes... in some cases... though the loose rock isn't always looked at with charity...
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JOEY.F
Social climber
sebastopol
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Cool adventures, love the photographs too.
Thanks!
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Trad climber
Will know soon
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It's great to have Threads like this. Beautiful, inspiring and not a 5.11. Thanks for taking the time, Ed.
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
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Thanks Ed, nice pics!
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Nice Ed!
Hehehe, I know where it is but I aint telling!
kev
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jan 10, 2011 - 12:26am PT
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Thanks, Ed - very nice! Sunny rock climbing here is months away, though.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Jan 10, 2011 - 01:06am PT
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Very nice, Ed. I was hoping to get either there or Pinnacles yesterday, but spent the day at the local animal hospital instead. At least our cat is now home, though he's wearing the Cone of Shame.
I greatly appreciate each of your trip reports (and each of your posts, for that matter). Even though I've been coming to the Valley for almost 60 years, and climbing there for almost 45, I always learn somehting new reading your posts and looking at your pics.
Thanks.
John
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Jan 10, 2011 - 01:09am PT
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Bravo! Thanks for the fun tr and of news on the newest missile attack in CA. :)
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Jan 10, 2011 - 11:24am PT
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Nice shots !
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Edge
Trad climber
New Durham, NH
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Jan 10, 2011 - 11:28am PT
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Awesome, thanks for sharing!
Just what I needed on a cold Monday morning here in New Hampshire.
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