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Disaster Master
Sport climber
Arcata / Santa Rosa, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 6, 2010 - 04:13pm PT
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PROTECT YOUR TRAD CLIMB LIKE A SPORT CLIMB, by PAUL “DISASTER MASTER” HUMPHREY
OK everyone. I have been holding this close to my chest for years, but now is the time to reveal.........
The “Over The Hump'” industries TRICK CLIP. (pat. pend.) Those who dain to sport climb often use a “STICK CLIP” to put up draws, protect opening moves, but what about a gear lead? Or a clean aid line? Or rescuing someone sans bolts?
The “Trick Clip” can place AND REMOVE any spring loaded camming device, including slider nuts, TCUs, single stem cams, U-stem cams, even climb tec's Removable Bolts. It works from micros all the way up to off width cams! You can place and remove trad gear as high over your head as your pole is long.
THIS IS NOT A JOKE.
I have used it quite well outside to protect cruxy trad starts, and to get directionals etc in while establishing new routes.
I came up with the idea in the late 1990's when RB's came out. I used them instead of bolts on some climbs, but whining sport climbers said they sucked because you couldn't stick clip them, among other issues.
“OH, Yeah?” I went to work and invented a hand on a stick. The unit is composed of a spine, two fingers and a thumb. A cord runs from the thumb through the fingers assembly, then down to a cord lock on the base of the pole. Simply select your cam, adjust the angle of the unit on the pole. Place the cam in the Fingers / Thumb assembly. Pull back on the cord. This pushes the thumb forward, compressing the cams. The cord lock holds the tension in place. The springs in the cam itself provide the opposing force.
Now with gear pretty darn secure in the unit, clip your rope through the 'biner, just like a sport stick clip. Extend the pole up to you gear placement of choice. Place cam in crack where appropriate. Release cord lock. This causes the cam to spring open in the crack, filling the void nicely if you picked the right size. The cam is now placed and loose from the device. Move the hand to the side and there ya go! The cam is placed. The rope is up. Bounce test the placement then climb on!
Of course, this will take practice and not all gear placements will be straight forward enough to work. So what! Most of the time you end up with an unseen but bounce tested piece. Better than nothing when decking is an issue.
Think of the applications.... Really, think about it.
The prototype is stripped down and cobbled together from many experiments. I also have attachments to allow it to do the carabiner stick clip thing, both placing and removing draws.
THIS TOOL IS PATENT PENDING. IF YOU WANT TO MANUFACTURE / MARKET IT OR WANT THE RIGHTS? I WANT MY CUT.! Don't rip me off, please.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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werd, it's not a cheat stick if used in big wallin, eh?
how about a video of this puppy in action Paul?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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What's wrong with a bow and arrow, and grappling hook?
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Disaster Master
Sport climber
Arcata / Santa Rosa, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2010 - 04:29pm PT
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No vids yet, but it really works. Iv'e used it at J tree to protect the first moves of a crux before the first gear. Call it cheating if you want, but it also clips in quick draws too. So Cosmic will only neeed the TRICK CLIP. Make your own.
If you cant figure it out from the pics, e-mail me and we will talk.
EDIT: Ha, ha to the bow and arrow comment. I used crossbows and line to access trees.
BUT WE ARE TALKING ACTUAL REAL ROCK CLIMBING APPLICATIONS, not pie in the sky gag gear.
Rock on,
Paul.
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Disaster Master
Sport climber
Arcata / Santa Rosa, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2010 - 04:40pm PT
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Clint,
The "Lovetron" was a steerable skyhook for bleak aid on blank faces.
My "Trick Clip" is more of an all-round tool. It can place free-climbable, fall-on-able pro, not just a teetering hook. It was originaly intended to pre-place CLIMB TECH Removable Bolts, slider nuts for drilled holes. This is because I was using them for sea cliff sport climbs, and wanted to make RB's use as close to the ease of fixed bolts at a crag as I could. Found out they work just as good with cams.
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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What's the story with the stained chair?
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Disaster Master
Sport climber
Arcata / Santa Rosa, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2010 - 04:59pm PT
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Its a leather chair in Jim Donini's guest studio. I'm just visiting!
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adatesman
Trad climber
philadelphia, pa
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Following from EKat's question, in case you're unaware claiming "Patent Pending" without having filed a provisional patent app is kinda frowned upon, by which I mean a big-time no-no of the fine and jail variety. I can't tell if you're joking or not, but figured it I might mention it in case you are serious and didn't know.
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MisterE
Social climber
Bouncy Tiggerville
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Pretty Cool!
The first person that comes to mind is Malcolm Daly, who owns Trango. He goes by "Malady" on this board. He would be a good person to talk to about this: feasibility, marketing, manufacturing, patenting, etc.
Erik
Edited: sorry, I got the handle wrong - good luck
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Disaster Master
Sport climber
Arcata / Santa Rosa, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2010 - 11:00pm PT
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Thanks for the tip Erik. I e mailed Malaldy, couldn't find MAL.
Patent search complete. provisional app. in a while go. pending........
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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How about putting a camera on that rig to make sure it is placed right.
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cody hall
Sport climber
apple valley
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Do you have to keep tension on the cord for the cam to stay up-right?
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Disaster Master
Sport climber
Arcata / Santa Rosa, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2010 - 12:47am PT
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a cord lock at the base of the pole holds tension on the cord and keeps the cam in place. you have both hands free to manuver the pole and gear into the best placement. The rig holds the cam more securely than you might think.
Locker, funny, but pie in the sky. I am talking reality here.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Disaster-
Has your submission been published yet?
If so, you are patent pending and have a time sensitive lock on the idea, provided you filed first. Even if someone has something similiar, you can modify the description of the utility of your invention.
Cool idea,
I assume removal is limted to crack size? Small cams, larger device?
Way to turn the wheel on your idea, hope you get the pat #
Mucci
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Petch
Gym climber
knapsack crack
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Sweet invention. I think it should be called Humphrey's Helping Hand!
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Oxymoron
Big Wall climber
total Disarray
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Good suggestion, Petch.
Cool device.
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426
climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Neat stuff. I've placed wires several times with a sticky to prevent a bone chattering fall (first 15' don't count in the rating down this way), but like your "ingenue" here...
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adatesman
Trad climber
philadelphia, pa
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Has your submission been published yet?
They only publish provisionals when a full patent is submitted that references it.
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wbw
climber
'cross the great divide
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Methinks I'd rather boulder out the first moves rather than trusting a placement that may or may not be secure with your deal. The not-knowing overrides the relatively few feet that it would protect.
Now if you could put it on say, a 50 foot deal, then it might actually be worth it. . .
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