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Jef
Trad climber
Oakland, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 30, 2010 - 10:28am PT
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Anyone know who could have made this piton? It was found on the North Buttress of Middle Cathedral in 1983. Interesting how the flat taper is reversed.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Sep 30, 2010 - 10:29am PT
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Looks home made.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Sep 30, 2010 - 10:44am PT
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Middle Cathedral Rock, FA North Buttress: 5/1954, Harding, Whitmer, Tarver and Holden.....
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 30, 2010 - 10:59am PT
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Could ask Frank Tarver...I don't recognize the shape off hand and the makers stamp is long rusted over. Frank would be the only one to nail this...scuz the pun!
If it's a Bea Vogel piece, you scored! I will try to ask Frank about it.
Ken might know, too!
The more I look at this piton...Longware! Looks like his eye shape too!
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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Sep 30, 2010 - 12:48pm PT
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I agree with Steve... Looks like Longware. I have an old one somewhere. Will try to dig up for comparison.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 30, 2010 - 12:56pm PT
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Second from the right!
I have some Longware shorties that I obtained at Birdfest. I will try and post some shots later.
Dick liked using beefy bar stock to hand forge his pitons. No dies involved here! Very early Chouinard and Dolt horizontals were similarly chunky before dies came into the picture.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Sep 30, 2010 - 11:36pm PT
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Looks to me like one of the typical, homemade guys from the fifties and
early sixties climbers, possibly a Dolt or Long piece...
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blackguardx
Trad climber
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The flat taper is reversed because the action of hammering in a taper causes the metal to increase in width. On lost arrow pitons, the blacksmith counteracts this effect. It takes more time and effort, though. These pitons are cheaper to make.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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99% sure that's a Long pin. Most of them were longer and wider. They were cheaper as this method saved a step--he didn't trim off the excess side material. The longer ones were called [surprise, surprise] Long Dongs. I still have a few, but haven't used them for years.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Hamie,
If you would be willing to take a shot of your stash of Longware horizontals, that would be grand! Not so many of those out in the world!
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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The eye looks like Longware to me. Salathe made some similar pins too. Most of Salathe's pitons had grooves on the blade and this one appears to not have them. Nice score.
Ken
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Hey Ken,
Would you post a link to your Making Pitons with YC thread?
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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I sent Long an e-mail with this Thread-Good opportunity for him to get online and maybe just maybe we will hear from him.
cheers
Guido
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Jef
Trad climber
Oakland, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 1, 2010 - 09:11pm PT
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Is this something that might be worth a few bucks?
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grover
climber
The Gar, BC.
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Cool pin, nice score!
Had the same pin years ago.
You could still read the "Longware" on it.
Ended up sending it to Ken for the Yos. museum.
Figured more people would enjoy it in the museum.
Cruel parents Dick had....sheesh! :0
oh ya ....tiss worth 29.95 up here in the nord.
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Thorgon
Big Wall climber
Sedro Woolley, WA
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Great "old school" Lost Arrow, hang on to that one!
Thor
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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I am pretty sure this is early Longware. Heavy sucker but indestructible and does match the catalog photos. I had some 47 years ago, not now tho. It is kind of a modified spoon pin, isn't it.
To answer your question Jef, yes it is worth some money.
First of all the provenance of the thing is solid. You yourself found it in some situation on the North Buttress of MCR. It will be proven here soon to be a Longware probably, not a Salathe or Euro model. You can Ebay it with a reserve and see what people think. With a reserve you won't be forced to sell it too cheaply if you have your reserve set high enough. Salathe pins of course have been sold for many hundreds of dollars.
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Jef
Trad climber
Oakland, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 2, 2010 - 10:15am PT
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Thanks Peter,
Hey, a little off topic, but I remember seeing you at Indian Rock back in the early 70's when I was just getting into climbing...I was probably not much more than 16 at the time. I recall you doing some funky mantel move by facing away from the rock, pulling up, and then flipping over onto your stomach.....I was in awe. Glad to see your still around.
That piton has been sitting on my bookshelf for 27 years...never thought much about it until recently, but the history of such things make it a lot more interesting. I even considered putting it on the rack as I might as well get some use out of it.
 Jef
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