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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 28, 2010 - 12:50pm PT
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George Meyers and DR at the base of Seaside, 1975:
Meyers, Long, the late Peter Barton, Bircheff:
Donini, Jardine, Bragg in C4 lot:
my friend Jon from Sacramento, 1971:
Kevin Donald and Lowe in Eldo 1975 or so:
awkward portrait of Galen Rowell:
Me and Bridwell doing a very early ascent of Meatgrinder at the Cookie:
Me learning aid on the junkpile of Pinnacle Rock, Berkeley in 1963/4:
A shot of John Bragg after the crux move on the FA of "Call of the Wild", Half Dome. This first and crux pitch was pretty tricky and unusual. John was in peak form then and thought it was 5.10a. Subsequent ascents have pegged it at 5.10d, fairly. John was also really very tall and limber:
Me on Cap Tree Direct back in about 1965, before it avalanched in the early 70's. You nailed what turned out to be future fracture line; weird too-- it was a straight-in crack especially higher up, but was expanding.....
Dale Bard on "In Dubious Battle" (below Peter Pan on El Cap), thinking it was a first ascent only to discover Jardine's 3/4" angle buried around the corner:
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nature
climber
Tucson, AZ
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Jul 28, 2010 - 12:52pm PT
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very nice!
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Jim E
climber
away
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Jul 28, 2010 - 01:03pm PT
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Best post of the month!
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Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
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Jul 28, 2010 - 01:04pm PT
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Great to see the pix Peter. I never remember Donini being so "hairy", in fact the person looks more like Steve Wunsch than Donini, but then it could be my memory after all those years. Seeing the picture of Pete Barton still makes me emotional--such a great guy and sad loss.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Jul 28, 2010 - 01:15pm PT
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I saw Kevin Donald just the other day and aside from a little less hair he hasn't changed a bit.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 28, 2010 - 01:24pm PT
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Hi Alan!
No, it is Donini. He has had full-on hairy phases; you have just forgotten. It is true he looks like Wunsch though. They were good friends too. Here is Jim around that same time, at the bottom of I think Waverly Wafer, belaying.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Jul 28, 2010 - 01:24pm PT
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Great photos Peter. Love those white aid slings and rare to see a hard hat used back then. Looks like an old Stubai hammer? Flavor of the ice cream? Frappe la tete?
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 28, 2010 - 02:33pm PT
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That helmet, Guido, was a Bell. I got it from The Ski Hut, Al Steck's shop he ran for George Rudolph et al. I still remember pulling that hat out of the box, what it smelled like new. I am thinking it was a xmas present for 1963 from my parents. Needless to say, I discarded it pretty quickly. No one, as you say, was wearing hard hats then and climbing was hard enough as it was.
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Hardly Visible
Social climber
Llatikcuf WA
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Jul 28, 2010 - 03:16pm PT
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Thanks Peter,
This is the sort of stuff that makes this place special.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Jul 28, 2010 - 03:25pm PT
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AWESOME photos, Peter.
Please grace us with more!!!!!
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Jul 28, 2010 - 09:16pm PT
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Really great nostalgia!!:)
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Mimi
climber
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Jul 28, 2010 - 09:27pm PT
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Wow! Keep digging!
Thanks Peter.
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PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
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Jul 28, 2010 - 09:43pm PT
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Another great post, Peter.
I think SuperTopo is going to end up being the best rock climbing history site on the web.
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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Jul 28, 2010 - 11:26pm PT
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Yes Peter. Keep posting please.
I had a pair of those white nylon aid slings and they might still be in a trunk somewhere.
Stubai was the hammer I used and I got a helmut like that when I first climbe in the Alps. I still have that too.
I also wanted to mention that I bought Photoshop elements finally on your recommendation.
I've been downloading all the advice you give on ST for how to process old slides.
Thanks!
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 29, 2010 - 10:03am PT
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Gasoline. I have replaced and desaturated those magentas for you; take a look and see what you think. I think it is safe to climb in the Meadows again. Thanks.
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Les
Trad climber
Bahston
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Jul 29, 2010 - 10:17am PT
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wow, amazing stuff. thanks for sharing.
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Maysho
climber
Soda Springs, CA
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Jul 29, 2010 - 10:18am PT
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Wow Peter, incredible photos, thanks!
Not one to overly wax nostalgic, I still appreciate the huge difference you faced in heading up steep hard cracks with a few pins or hexes, way more adventure than plugging in those springy things.
I love the one of you nailing on Pinnacle Rock! That funky crack was my first "lead" with a top rope backup as a 13 year old RCS punk.
Peter
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Double D
climber
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Jul 29, 2010 - 12:11pm PT
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Peter... great pics. It's funny but I still remember the individual cars in the C4 parking lot from that era.
Thanks for posting.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jan 11, 2011 - 05:04pm PT
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Yeah, me too. Cool stuff!
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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Jan 11, 2011 - 07:10pm PT
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Wow! How did I miss this thread last year? I guess I need too spend more time on ST...
Peter... Wonderful pics... Every time I see a pic of C4 lot from back then I get a warm fuzzy feeling. I can smell the dust, the overheated bug/van engines, I can see folks stumbling back to the lot after a night in the boulders... wonderful place and time.
Also, that #10 can of peanut butter... Man! I lived on one of those one summer!
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