Best Alpine Rock Buttress in America- Elephants Perch or Inc

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donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 6, 2010 - 05:22pm PT
Elephant's Perch or the Incredible Hulk, I've climbed on both, nothing else comes close. What do you think?
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jul 6, 2010 - 05:23pm PT
Which has the better belays with blue camalots?

I've heard there are some nice buttresses in the Bugaboos, which are in the Americas.
High Fructose Corn Spirit

Gym climber
Full Silos of Iowa
Jul 6, 2010 - 05:32pm PT
Could somebody post up a pic or two of Elephants Perch?

Okay, here's one:

http://www.climbing.com/exclusive/classicclimbs/mountaineers_route_elephants_perch_sawtooth_range_idaho/

I missed it. Alas. Maybe when I am reincarnated.

Recent Hulk pictures:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1184988&tn=0
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 6, 2010 - 05:56pm PT
Great photo! I'll be going back to both areas in August. MH, Blue Camalots are more handy at the Hulk than the Perch.
golsen

Social climber
kennewick, wa
Jul 6, 2010 - 06:15pm PT
Cool photo.

I will always have fond memories of the Perch. Pardner and I hiked into the lakes for a 5 day stay on a beautiful day. While eating lunch on one of those pretty slabs that dip into the highest lake, four lovely ladies showed up. They proceeded to get naked and jump into the lake. Definitely made the Perch second fiddle. They then yelled at us that we couldnt just sit there and watch so I joined them.

After we got out and dried off they came over and talked. They were going to some party in SV that night, I was tempted to blow may pardner off but that would have been flaky!

We managed the Mountaineers Route, Fine Line, Lowe Route and some other nice climb in 4 perfect days of climbing. But as good as those climbs were, I will never forget the skinny dippers!
Fritz

Trad climber
Hagerman, ID
Jul 6, 2010 - 10:01pm PT
Re:
Elephant's Perch or the Incredible Hulk

The Incredible Hulk is outside my experience, and I don't have anything close to Donini's climbing/travel background.

However, I can mention that when we put up Pachydermial Pleasantries on “The Perch” BITD: it was very clean and solid rock.

Near the top of the route, when the angle of the rock got lower, there were some loose rocks.

Otherwise: no moss, grass, stacked-rock death-traps, or evil gorses impeded our upward progress.








Of course, the last glaciers had only recently departed: when I was climbing new routes in “The Tooths.”


Golsen: That "don't leave your climbing buddy to chase the women credo" is real sick. I did nearly the same thing once, and have regretted that I didn't dump the bastard and chase the woman. Ah! The wisdom of age.

Skinny dipping or swimming at the Perch Lakes is now frowned on. Campfires, camping anywhere near the lakes, mineral collecting, and large groups are illegal.


Mandatory Disclaimer. The wolves, biting flies, mosquitoes, bears, and rednecks are all "out of control." The closest Starbucks is nearly 60 miles away. If you think you can call 911, for a rescue, on your cell phone: you will die trying.
crunch

Social climber
CO
Jul 7, 2010 - 12:32am PT
Captain...or Skully

Big Wall climber
Transporter Room 2
Jul 7, 2010 - 12:57am PT
Dude, yer gonna die up there!
Move along, mind the rail, nothin' to see here.

Shhhhhhhhh.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Jul 7, 2010 - 12:58am PT
If by "America" you mean the US, then... well, coming second is about as exciting as kissing your sister. On the other hand, if you mean "North America" then there's this:

There's a few others in that country to the north of "America", but this one is decent. The Skywalk Buttress on Mt. Combatant (across the Tiedemann Glacier from Mt. Waddington).

(I don't have a good shot of my own, so I pulled this photo, which is by John Scurlock, from the web. If he'd like it removed, I'll certainly remove it.)

And if you're looking for the real thing, there's always this:

I've heard there are a few in Alaska as well, but I've never seen them myself. And down in that other "America", the one south of the Equator, there might be a buttress or two...
Fritz

Trad climber
Hagerman, ID
Jul 7, 2010 - 01:12am PT
OK! I surrender! Canada has better alpine rock routes, better beer, and better people.

What's not to like?

Since I have also climbed in the Bugaboos-----I have to vote for the Bugaboos.

To be honest! The climbs are much higher status, and the women you share your adventures with: will be much more impressed.

Bugaboos!

Woohoo!

Inner City

Trad climber
East Bay
Jul 7, 2010 - 01:21am PT
this thread and these photos are fantastic. I love these climbing threads!
snowhazed

Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
Jul 7, 2010 - 01:29am PT
HULK

but I should probably check out the perch to be sure
LuckyPink

climber
the last bivy
Jul 7, 2010 - 01:29am PT
vote for the Perch.. due to the approach by boat over Redfish Lake..(got some pics somewhere...)
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Jul 7, 2010 - 02:04am PT
There is some more alpine rock in the USA...

Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jul 7, 2010 - 02:12am PT
Speaking of which, how do you eat an elephant?
Hard Rock

Trad climber
Montana
Jul 7, 2010 - 09:57am PT
The Perch
I also like the boat ride on the Lake. Bring a tent and cooler and bivy at the end of the lake. Start early and you can make it back for the last boat.
I don't mind the Bugs or the Diamond. But in the late 70's (maybe 80's) I got to climb the North Face on North Trapper. That was my first big route climbing into the unknown. Didn't see anyone for 3 days. Made the summit at sunset - nice and orange.
ddriver

Trad climber
SLC, UT
Jul 7, 2010 - 03:16pm PT
I was much more impressed with the Perch than the Hulk. Closest thing to Chamonix-style rock I've witnessed in the 48.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 7, 2010 - 03:22pm PT
Ah! And without bolts next to the cracks.
Bschmitz

Ice climber
mountain view
Jul 7, 2010 - 04:05pm PT

Dudeman

Trad climber
Idaho/Beyond
Jul 7, 2010 - 04:22pm PT
A few good “free” adventures to be had on The Perch for sure. There is some deteriorated rock plus loose and dangerous blocks on some of the routes. The Wendy! Tons of good routes all over the west though. Don’t think I could just choose one. Formation.
The Perch and Redfish Creek Canyon.
The Perch.
On The Beckey Direct
Two of the best picthes on The Mountaineers Route.


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