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Greg Barnes
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 1, 2010 - 03:33pm PT
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We had an inquiry about the current state of bolts on West Face - anyone know the conditions? The question came from someone who climbed it 10+ years ago and remembered being sketched out by some of the bolts.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Well, the first ascent team placed only one bolt, in 1967, so it shouldn't be too hard to check. And they had only pitons and basic nuts.
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Mr_T
Trad climber
Northern California
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The anchors were ok, but no fun to rap off in a rain storm (we did from 2/3 up). If you're going up, you're fine.
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Patrick Purcell
Trad climber
Heber City, Utah
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I am looking for any updated info regarding route beta and fixed equipment on the west face of El-cap. Thank you
P.
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tahoe523
Trad climber
SF, CA
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PM me if you have specific questions. We topped out yesterday afternoon and came down today.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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In 1999 the bolts were good, except for the one up high on p14, which is strange and sticks out a ways. Fixed pins below this bolt on p14 were missing in 1999, so it was hard to reach; I flipped my rope over it to protect the moves up to clip it.
In 1999 there was a fixed copperhead near the end of p1 with most of the cable strands broken, so I did a couple of free moves instead of grabbing it. It is probably gone or replaced by now.
It was originally done with just one bolt, but with many pitons. For awhile p2 was considered sketchy due to missing fixed pins, but by 1991 someone had added a couple of bolts at the start in lieu of the pins, so you were no longer in danger if hitting your belayer if you fell from the initial moves.
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Mungeradomas
Gym climber
Deep State of Philosophical Mind Bending
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FWIW, a rock slide hit out left from Lurking Fear. I'm not familiar with that section of the wall, so couldn't say if it reached to the West Face route.
Here's the pic from the base of the corners on LF looking up and left of the dust cloud as the rocks ripped from the cliff.
Clint does that look like it might be near the West Face or not?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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There's a lot of rock around the corner from Lurking Fear, so it's not possible to say if that rockfall hit the West Face. Probably it's OK, since the person who posted above just did it.
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Mungeradomas
Gym climber
Deep State of Philosophical Mind Bending
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ic now, thx
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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cool photo, though.
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dustonian
climber
RRG
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that old aid anchor in the middle of the crux of the 11 finger crack pitch is super ugly and whack... it kind of ruins the pitch if you don't know to skip it. everything else seemed fine when I did it last year.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Could you do the route reasonably using only the original single bolt?
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alik
Big Wall climber
edmonton
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The first two belays would be fairly intricate and require pitons if only the original bolt was used, so might as well replace those anchors with modern hardware since it is a free route, and the bolts are already there. These bolts were in so-so shape, and are in need of replacing, if it hasn't already been done.
Like dustonian mentioned, the old hanging belay in the middle of the 6th or so pitch should probably be removed, as it is unnecessary, and is right in the middle of the free climbing crux (well protected). You can keep going past this anchor, and reach the next ledge with a 70, or with just a touch of easy simuling on a 60. Makes for a killer long pitch! Overall there was a bit of extra hardware at belays in '08 that could be removed, if some was replaced with modern bolts.
Also, I don't remember any bolts on P2, and the pro was good, so I guess these bolts were chopped?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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so, are we good to go? I got plans...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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The anchor bolt at the end of original pitch 7 is the only original and by definition necessary bolt. While a couple of holes may have become needed to avoid blown placements, the rest are all convenience or chicken bolts. It's a shame. Some thought really needs to go into cleaning up and restoring this route before every indiscretion is immortalized in stainless steel, IMO.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 2, 2010 - 04:11pm PT
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The anchor bolt at the end of original pitch 7 is the only original and by definition necessary bolt.
the problem with fixed pitons are: (1)that they loosen and corrode over time becoming less reliable and (2)boneheads tamper with and steal them. The pinbolt solves both problems directly. http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=424115&msg=445627#msg445627
Care to explain your position again Steve?
We're by no means advocating replacing non-orginal bolts just because they are there, but "by definition necessary" sounds like a pretty uncompromising position - particularly with bolts that were placed long ago to replace pitons that had fallen out. Actually sounds like it could be a good spot for pinbolts.
There may be interest in replacing what should be replaced, and removing what should be pulled. Any consensus about what should stay and what should go? Sounds like the bolted anchor midway on pitch 7 should definitely go. Are there dead heads that could use some cleaning as well?
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Acer
Big Wall climber
AZ
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Looks like it is time for a restoration of the West Face. I would like to give it a go in the original condition.
How has the free climbing effected the addition of fixed gear?? There might be so influence there.
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nature
climber
Tucson, AZ
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Weld_It has all the beta you need
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Greg- I have no quarrel with blown placements requiring a hole if no other option is shown through real effort to be available. The West Face as a predominantly free route for most parties and is unique in its low bolt count. How many of the bolts should stay if the route was retrofitted is my question and it can only be answered by a party that intentionally climbs the route avoiding them.
How many bolts are on the route right now?
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burntheman
Trad climber
slt
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I climbed this a week ago. This is what I remember. Maybe tahoe523 can verify. Ryan has put a nice pitch by pitch breakdown in the comments section on mp. It seems to be the same as what I encountered. http://mountainproject.com/v/california/yosemite_national_park/yosemite_valley/106065890
1st bolt on pitch 1 was an old quarter incher and the second was an smc. You can get 1 or 2 solid cams (yellow and gray aliens) below the bolts/crux. The first two bolts on pitch 2 were new. The first bolt after the runout on pitch 2 was also new. The anchor was 2 old bolts and 1 new. The midway anchor on p7(reid guide) was 2 old bolts equalized with an rp. I think there were two different pieces of tat equalized both of which were garbage. The equalized mank is right in the middle of the climbing assuming you aren't stopping to belay. Bolt at the top of the pitch was old but had supplemental gear. I think I had an offset yellow/green alien but can't remember the other peice.
I think all the bolts at the top of p8 were old.
The fixed/drilled? pin on 13 was still there and seems solid.
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