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thedogfather
climber
Somewhere near Red Rocks
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 3, 2010 - 11:47pm PT
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Just a short trip report to chronicle Dave and Callie’s week at my new digs in Vegas. Callie is still resting her feet so I was treated to several days with Dave as a great rope gun! They arrived mid-morning on Saturday so Dave and I headed to Pine Creek Canyon for some cragging. First up was Y2K. Right off the deck we get a nice long 5.10a pitch.
Next up, “The Next Century” 5.10d. Dave cruised and I was a bit nervous to follow something that stiff. Thin and sustained but the rope above made it do-able.
Sunday was time for bigger fish, Eagle Dance, deep in the back of Oak Creek Canyon. Nine pitches with almost all going at 5.10. Dave was psyched. I was nervous.
After two hours of boulder hopping and 4th class slab climbing we arrive at the base.
But, there is another team already there. Hmmmm Dave is cool and has his "passing" routine fine tuned. They ask “Are you fast?” Dave deflects a bit and asks “Have you done this route before?” Of course they ask him the same and he says “No but I’ve done levitation 29 a few times” That sealed it and they let us jump ahead. Since we now were committed to move quickly, I deferred to Dave for the only pitches I would have probably wanted to lead. He combined the first two pitches at about 5.9.
I am not an aid climber (yet) so swinging from bolt to bolt on makeshift etriers made from slings was more strenuous for me than most of the climbing pitches!
The rock was suspect and the climbing most likely harder than the 10b and 10c that these pitches were rated at.
With Dave combining several pitches and the raps going smoothly, we made it out with plenty of daylight left. We almost went for the first two pitches of Levitation 29 but opted for starting the heinous descent asap.
Monday was a rest day.
Tuesday is MT WILSON day. Inti Watana is on the plate.
A nice romp across the desert leads to some sketchy thrashing and 4th classing
Facing the last 10c pitch made me nervous again. Dave had cruised so smoothly I couldn’t even tell where the crux was. As it turned out, the pitch is probably 10a for what that is worth.
Tuesday was time for me to get some rest (go back to writing code). Dave’s old pal, Kenny, from California showed up to do the hard stuff and Callie headed back to the frozen tundra of Boulder. Kenny and Dave spent several days doing hard stuff in Black Velvet. Sorry, I don’t have any of those pics. Sunday I got join them at Willow Springs for a day of cragging.
Final route a steep nice 5.10d crack, "Left Out" in the Hidden Falls area.
So, it was a great week with perfect weather, great climbs, good food, and NO FALLS.
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Mimi
climber
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Yo! Now that's a TR! Way to pull down the pitches!
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F10
Trad climber
e350 / Bishop
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Cool stuff
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murcy
climber
sanfrancisco
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Great pictures. Looks like awesome fun.
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The Alpine
Big Wall climber
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Thats a big fuggin' dog!
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Trad climber
Will know soon
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Great Pics, great TR.....Super.....thanks. lynnie
ps, how are those feet now Callie ?
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John Moosie
climber
Beautiful California
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That thing is a dog???? I was going to ask when they started letting you raise livestock in the city limits. haha.. Maybe you should stop watering it so much and it will stop growing.
Great trip report! Thanks!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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thanks for the TR,
love the idea of getting out to RR again, maybe in the fall...
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Chinchen
climber
Way out there....
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Great pics and report! Thanks!
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Thanks again to Dogfather - it was a blast seeing him and his horse, er, dog Kappy. :)
My feet are nice and tan now, thanks for asking. So is the rest of me as a result of the trip to Vegas.
I have the go ahead to climb now since the bones are officially healed. Thus, I've been taking my feet out. They are still in charge and they say NO to Eldo (at least most of it). Slab with tiny hand holds is out of the question they inform me. They say YES to the gym so that is where I've been trying to take them.
I'm tired of being controlled by my feet. I know, not much longer.
I'm looking forward to getting back to Vegas so I can climb. And I do want to ride the RR Loop road. I'm ancy to get super active again!
edit: Thanks for taking the time to share these photos Dogfather.
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Anastasia
climber
hanging from a crimp and crying for my mama.
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Nice!!! Great seeing you guys doing so well.
Hugs,
AFS
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Wow, Mr. Dave!!!! Awesome--specially that
picture of Solar!
Glad you guys had a great trip. . .
(while I'm stuck here studying. . . snurf, snurf). . .
LOL!!!
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Prod
Trad climber
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Dave is a mad man, I just belay slaved him in Eldo for a Super Slab/ Yellow Spur link up. I think we did what the guide book calls 13 pitches in 6. We left the parking lot at 4 and were back to the cars at 8:45. If I were 1/2 the climber he is now, I'd be content. But at 50? Shit! He got game.
Prod.
PS, total hang doging on my part on Super Slab. Pissed me off!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Very nice!
Did Pente meet Kappy? If so, how did it go?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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kewl, thx
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tradchick
Trad climber
Vermont
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Wow! You guys really got it done!
Great pics, especially the Big Horn and neat to see Solar Slab from that vantage point.
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hooblie
climber
from where the anecdotes roam
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what a great group of pictures! as close as any set could to capturing the actual fun and spectacle that fills our cups to overflow
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cowpoke
climber
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you guys got a bunch of great climbing into that week!
I think my favorite picture is the first one, when you guys are just about to start the first pitch of a week of climbing (it really captures the anticipation)...I'm so happy it's prime time for trips and trip reports, again...
thanks for your report!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nice! Liked Kenny's attire.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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This forum needs more posts like yours! Great job with terrific pix!
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