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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 25, 2010 - 04:51pm PT
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ok boyz --need some help with a harness choice. What's the latest...
Need one that is:
--lightweight (and simple)
--has the "no-need-to-double-back" buckle
--good strong belay loop
--also good haul clip-in loop on back
--gear loops: really only need two but four's ok, and not plastic, yet something beefier than the ones that are just seam tape folded over with a plastic tube over it. Definitely don't like the ones with 4 big plastic gear loops sticking out like elephant ears, as I still rack with shoulder slings and might find myself even doing offwidths again.
cheap would be nice, too. Any ideas?
oh, also--one that is fairly adjustable, but doesn't end up with that annoying flap of waist padding that always ending up sticking out instead of overlapping with the other side in front...
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treeman
climber
mule city
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May 25, 2010 - 04:55pm PT
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BD Momentum SA runs 60 bucks US, has what your looking for.
TMaloney
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jack herer
climber
veneta, or
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May 25, 2010 - 05:12pm PT
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ya bd harness's are horrible... i highly reccomend metolius but you do have to double the buckle back. everything is full strength wich is nice, you probably deserve to eat it if you manage to clip in with your gear loops... but its greatr peice of mind. wouldnt climb in anything else, but thats just my opinion
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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May 25, 2010 - 05:43pm PT
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what you described, john, sounds like a souped-up swami belt.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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May 25, 2010 - 05:50pm PT
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Petzl Calidris, comfortable enough for big wall, light and breathes enough for everything else too. Only drawback- no elastic in the leg loops to help keep them up and $$.
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Topic Author's Reply - May 25, 2010 - 05:55pm PT
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Exactly, a souped up swami would be ideal. Can't seem to find the good tubular 2" red webbing anymore, dang...
Thanks for the kind offer, Mike, but I'm about a 35" waist now.
Thanks all for the suggestions. All good choices, haven't pressed the "buy now" button yet, though...
That Mistly looks the best so far to me. The extra $30 or so is the cost of buying American it seems.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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May 25, 2010 - 06:10pm PT
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I haven't tried the ranger, but the Misty cadillacs etc. with the fleece covering don't breathe well (sweaty and clammy) and they break down so you feel the webbing belt. The Petzl frame construction distributes the load better. YMMV.
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nature
climber
Tucson, AZ
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May 25, 2010 - 06:26pm PT
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n00b?
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apogee
climber
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May 25, 2010 - 06:29pm PT
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Another vote for Misty Mountain- I have a Cadillac (which is bigger than you are looking for), but the workmanship is superb.
Black Diamond = offshore manufactured Krap®. Tell a friend.
Buy from your local retailer, too- avoid the big-box REI megalopolis.
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Topic Author's Reply - May 25, 2010 - 06:33pm PT
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beginners mind, nature, beginners mind...
Cragman, it looks like the Metolius don't have the new fangled no-double-back buckles (what the heck are they called, anyway?). I really like that feature. Even Lynn forgot once.
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nature
climber
Tucson, AZ
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May 25, 2010 - 06:35pm PT
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it was a joke ;-)
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Topic Author's Reply - May 25, 2010 - 07:16pm PT
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me too!
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Scared Silly
Trad climber
UT
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May 25, 2010 - 07:37pm PT
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I am with Locker the Metolius SafeTech. Or really the senility harness cause if you screw something up it is still bomber. The gear loops are full strength as are the leg loops. It could be a bit wider in the back but it is a fine all-round harness.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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May 25, 2010 - 07:44pm PT
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John - "no-double-back buckles" = "Speed Adjust buckles", at least that's what the black diamond folks call them.
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Scott McNamara
Social climber
Tucson, Arizona
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May 25, 2010 - 07:45pm PT
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John,
What about talking to Mike Head in Tucson?
He will build you whatever you want.
You can design it yourself.
I do not think his price will be much different from buying a commercial harness.
Have fun!
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handsome B
Gym climber
SL,UT
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May 25, 2010 - 07:51pm PT
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The BD Chaos is by far the best trad climbing harness on the market.
Coz,
Are you joking about the belay loop? Tripled-over webbing can be held together with duct tape and still hold any force generated in a climbing fall.
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squishy
Mountain climber
sacramento
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May 25, 2010 - 08:09pm PT
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A real pain to get on, but more bomber than anything else...I find that feature to be a plus and a giant piece of mind...
Another vote for Met here...
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habitat
climber
grass pass
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May 25, 2010 - 09:12pm PT
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//BD has one of the weakest harnesses on the market, their belay loop is not bar tacked all the way through, making it much weaker than most.
Their tie in point, turns into a daisy chain pocket, if you do not clip your belay device to the loop of your rope. It could fail...
I would never use one.//
Coz,
I got mine out immediately to check this out -- and you're right, the belay loop does not appear to be bar tacked all the way through...never noticed it before, just sort of take these things for granted, that the gear I buy from a company like BD will be safe, but you say not...which, given your experience, leads me to wonder...
And, could you elaborate on your second sentence and caution, not being an aid climber, not sure what to make of it.
Thanks.
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WBraun
climber
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May 25, 2010 - 09:20pm PT
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To all harness gear manufacturers.
Please give John at least a pro deal or some kind of deal on the harness he eventually chooses.
This is a guy when he was A5 was helping all kinds of people with their gear.
He was an icon on YOSAR for years.
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handsome B
Gym climber
SL,UT
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May 25, 2010 - 10:03pm PT
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Coz,
BD makes bomber gear. Everyone from the CEO to the engineers climb on it. I have put hundreds of hours and dozens of walls on my harness. If you have a more specific complaint I think you need to make it known here. Making vague accusations is not moving this conversation forward.
cheers,
Brendan
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