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Fogarty
climber
BITD
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 19, 2010 - 05:32pm PT
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Please feel free to share a story or a photo of clance, he is a real pioneer and friend and a person rich in character. I will post more photos and some classic escapades latter. Post away!
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Apr 19, 2010 - 06:42pm PT
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First ascent of Skull Queen. Nice..
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Apr 19, 2010 - 07:29pm PT
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Chuck taught me how to climb. First day I met him he said "We will make a wall climber out of you real soon". He is always psyched anytime climbing is involved, and one of the most generous people I have met.
Hard as nails, and still crankin, not to mention some of the best stories I have ever heard.
With early ascents of Aurora(3rd), ZM (7th), Pacemaker (2nd), Aquarian (8th), Muir (8th), and Magic Mushroom (10th) He seemed to have gotten to many of the classics at just the right time.
Chuck has been a great partner, and a better friend over the years.
Cheers for Clancy!
Mucci
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seth kovar
climber
Bay Area
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Apr 19, 2010 - 07:38pm PT
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Bump for Chuck!!!!!
Met him recently at Glenn Canyon Park in SF...
Ended up shooting the sh*# for over an hour and climbing close to none...
It was one of the best days I have had there...
Can't wait to take him up on his offer to take me around climbing...
Unfortunately, I lost his number, so until the next time I see you Chuck...
"Here's to you!!" *raising my can*
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Fogarty
climber
BITD
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 19, 2010 - 09:17pm PT
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Fogarty
climber
BITD
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 19, 2010 - 10:50pm PT
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WOW People, my old friend has what firts ascent on El Cap?
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dustonian
climber
RRG
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Apr 19, 2010 - 11:00pm PT
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Oh yeah, the guy who retrobolted Aurora on a later ascent... way to go Chuck
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nature
climber
Tucson, AZ
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Apr 19, 2010 - 11:00pm PT
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hmmm... Chuck was at a sushifest a while back, yeah?
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Fogarty
climber
BITD
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 19, 2010 - 11:17pm PT
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dustonian !!!
Tough Words, did you do one of the first 4 Ascents of Aurora?
Wow, Dorton and I fixed to pitch 3 for him and Troy, I find it hard to believe your retro bolt comment, Troy would of never aloud that!
I’m checking on you?
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Maysho
climber
Soda Springs, CA
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Apr 19, 2010 - 11:42pm PT
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Here's to Clancy! Hope he is in good health!
Word at the time, and directly from him was not a big "retro-bolt" issue, but that he did drill some bat hook holes to get across the traverse on the crux pitch. The combination of "you should have seen how hard we partied with, oh yeah and we had to drill" was a bummer, but I got over it quickly. Few aid climbers get as physical as Greg did on that pitch, and someone would have drilled it sometime.
Chuck did a lot of hard routes, I think of him as a friend from BITD, and I'm glad to hear he is still getting out!
Peter
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Loomis
climber
*_*
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Apr 20, 2010 - 01:34am PT
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Just got off the phone with Clance, he was in his usual good humor and was surprised about the thread.
He doesn't go online so he can't even lurk here.
"Dustonian" Clance ask if you have ever done Aurora and if not, for you to go up and lead all the
odd pitches. He had some other comments, but I will not post them here.
To everyone else, he sent a shout out and a big thanks.
Scott.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Apr 20, 2010 - 01:48am PT
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Every route has grown holes, Peter has a good attitude about it IMHO.
Back then you didn't have a 800mm scope on you.
Enough with the old news, here is one for C
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Apr 20, 2010 - 01:55am PT
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Almost always appreciate Clancey.
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Apr 20, 2010 - 03:15am PT
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chuck clance, great character, had a few beers with him in el cap meadow last fall...he had me going, just laughing so hard. i'm glad we are on the same team. shipoopster
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Delhi Dog
Trad climber
Good Question...
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Apr 20, 2010 - 07:03am PT
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Wow, who let out that big hit while Clance was sleeping?
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wack-N-dangle
Gym climber
the ground up
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Apr 20, 2010 - 11:38am PT
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I ran into Chuck at the Leap and we climbed a couple of easy pitches. I regret not having the chance to take him up on his offer to show me around some of the bay area haunts. I respected the way he talked about other climbers and their accomplishments.
He definitely seemed to have some old school, aid climber cred. Ummmm, I meant free climber. If there was an old school, it seems like Chuck has been truant since then. He probably doesn't remember, but please tell him Brett from Santa Cruz says hi.
Viva la Chuck
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Apr 20, 2010 - 03:33pm PT
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KitKat
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
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Apr 20, 2010 - 04:46pm PT
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Chuck is CLASSIC! I'd tell a story, but he's not on here to defend himself!
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Loomis
climber
*_*
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Apr 20, 2010 - 05:00pm PT
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Hey, let the stories roll, have a few of my own to add here.
He will have a chance to defend : )
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wack-N-dangle
Gym climber
the ground up
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Apr 20, 2010 - 05:58pm PT
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He mentioned something about falling on/grabbing a pillar on the way down. If I remember, he fractured a couple of ribs. He said that it seemed like a better option than decking on a ledge further below. I think he continued and finished the wall.
Wasn't there a story about a ghostbusters ascent of the trip?
The stories didn't sound like spray. Just a different generation of climbers.
bump for clancy
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