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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
Will know soon
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 3, 2010 - 07:02pm PT
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A Combo Question.....
Bouldered Saturday with a borrowed pad, fell and reflexes worked. So, continuing my climbing journey it looks like with all the boulders around my hood I could work out without paying climbing gym fees. Plus.....bouldering is Fun !!!
Need recommendations for a good pad please :D
Also, recent Storms left alot of fallen trees and branches. Any suggestions for a Very Reliable chain saw that starts easily to be used by a 5' 5" female. Mostly cutting branches 6-8 inches or under. No Paul Bunyan, but used to working outside with tools :D Lynnie
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Mad rock pads are pretty great. Cheap too. I've taken some 15 + footers with no injuries. Nice impromtu sofa as well!
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susan peplow
climber
www.joshuatreevacationhomes.com
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Kids these days....I can just see Lynne now, the focus of a new TLC reality show.
What ever happened to loppers and a handsaw? Less weight and added exercise.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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use a hand saw for 6" ?
8" seems like a long saw and snappable potential
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Gene
Social climber
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Quite the combo. Do not mix, please.
I scored an electric chainsaw with a 16" bar at Lowes for about $60. Homeowner model, but it might meet your needs unless the trees are 1/4 mile from an outlet.
Best always,
Gene
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
Will know soon
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 3, 2010 - 07:20pm PT
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Karodrinker, how much approximately do they run? Anyone out there ...... how do Madrocks stack up against Metolius Pads ? Anyone in So Cal got a used pad for sale ?
Sooze, yeah "what's the matter with kids today ?" Dang, they can't have all the fun. I tried those new skate boards that bend in the middle. Those are fun too, but I need to focus on ze rock. I have all the handsaws pruners etc. but I had some large peppertree and eucalyptus go down and it would take me forever to do it by hand.
Gene, Dude, missing yo. Hadn't thought of electric. Will check it out. :D
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Hawkeye
climber
State of Mine
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for a chainsaw i prefer Husquvarna....thing always starts. hell, it might be so fun you decide to really trim the bush so to speak.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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I can't comment regarding the bouldering pad - I don't have one, and haven't often used one. Although a spotter may be a desirable accessory.
As for chainsaws, which I do know a bit about, get some training and try someone else's before you buy. Make sure you have appropriate safety equipment and knowledge, and use it. Chains saws, even the little electric ones, hurt and kill lots of people. Especially big burly lunkheads, but many others. Also, if possible, don't use it while you're alone - if something does happen, it helps to have someone around.
As others have mentioned, some good clippers and a swede saw may be just about as effective, much less noisy, and safer, though a bit more work.
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Chaz
Trad climber
greater Boss Angeles area
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You want one with the throttle-handle on top ( as opposed to behind like the orange one above ), commonly called an "arborist saw". They're generally smaller, lighter saws, made to be hoisted up into the trees. My Mom has one. She doesn't climb trees with her's. ( I have one too )
You shouldn't have to spend more than $300 for a decent one.
If you want to try chainsaw carving, you can swap out the bar, sprocket, and chain to use it for something artistic.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Lynn--
AFter years of Metolious, Cordless, BBZ, Snap, Misty Mt. and others, I'm using Organic.
Josh uses a "memory" style foam that is noticeably better than the foam used in all the other commercial pads I've used. Makes a difference for my joints.
Plus it lasts longer and is better to sleep on.
heh
http://www.organicclimbing.com/
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Lynne,
Husky or Stihl's are good. Make sure you use stabilizer with your fuel mixture so it will start next year. Keep the chain sharp and out of the dirt. Email me if you have other questions.
Ken
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
You wanted to!
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I'm kinda partial to Asana pads, but they're my local connection for all things bouldering.....and they're American.
With saws, Hmmm. I defer to the experts.
Cheers, Lynne.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Always use them together!
I had a tiny Stihl that was pretty cool.
Get Russ to come out of crash pad retirement and make you a Maxi, tht's what I use!
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JOEY.F
Social climber
sebastopol
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Man oh man, illustrator please!
Lynne, I got an electric from sears, 60bucks, good for moderate tree trimming. And a long cord.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Husqvarnas are easy to start, smooth and last forever if properly cared for. Most pros use either Husqvarna or Stihl. I've used nothing but Huskys for 30 years, 30 - 40 hours per year.
Huskys come in Professional, Landowner, and Homeowner series. Get the smallest Homeowner saw. a 14" bar is long enough. $200 - $250 new
Consider renting but don't get anything with a bar less than 12" for 6-8" diameter wood. Be SURE the chain is sharp and runs smoothly.
You'll need personal protective equipment.
Chainsaws ARE dangerous, even the small ones and even if you know what you're doing.
Mandatory PPE: Heavy boots, heavy trousers or chaps, heavy (not insulated) leather work gloves (cheap) and helmet. Climbing helmet is fine. I wouldn't trust a bicycle helmet.
Wrap around safety glasses/goggles (you won't believe where you'll find wood chips) and hearing protection at all times. Wear a long sleeved shirt and keep it tucked in.
Find your local Husqvarna dealer and tell him what your job is.
Ask him how to sharpen the chain and buy the file and file holder you need. You don't need a sharpening jig if you're good with your hands and go slowly. It's important to get the angles correct.
You WILL dull your chain. Instantly if/when you hit a small stone, wire or even the dirt.
If your dealer is more than an hour away you might also want a spare chain. They're easy to twist if you get the chain bound in the cut.
Husqvarna has a good pamphlet/video on how to cut wood with a chain saw.
Pay close attention to binding the chain in the cut. It will bind if the cut is closing instead of opening, just like a hand saw except it happens much faster and you might not be able to get the saw out. I got a saw stuck yesterday.
If any of your wood is "up in the air" even leaning against something else, you might want help.
Be careful. Wood is MUCH heavier than you might think and can damage fences, roofs, buildings and you. I know what I'm doing and nearly got it yesterday from a "widow maker" (a tree hung up in another tree) that I was cutting down. Be sure you can escape quickly backwards from anything that's not right on the ground,.
Don't hesitate to use STURDY rope, pulleys and rigging (old climbing slings and carabiners are great for light work) to prevent something from falling where you don't want it to.
DON'T use nylon or climbing rope which will stretch a lot.
Unless the wood is right on the ground, think THREE times how you're going to cut to keep yourself safe before you start cutting. Always plan an escape route. Quit BEFORE you get tired. Watch your footing. It's REALLY easy to go down just by stepping backward and tripping over a fallen log behind you.
If you get into a hazardous situation STOP, get to a safe location and then get help!
Don't carry the saw when it's running. Stop it, take it where you need and start it again.
Supplies: plain old unleaded gasoline, 2 stroke oil to mix with the gas, a 1 gal gas can to mix them in, and bar and chain lube. All available at a good home and garden shop/OSH etc.
Have FUN!
Edit: I was going to recommend the arborist's saw but they're only available in the professional line and start at $300. Mine is great when I need to work up in a tree (which I really try to avoid) and on the ground. Because the arborist saw doesn't have the handle at the back it's harder to control and I think it's not as safe especially for a beginner. The homeowner type saw will be all you need for wood that's on or very near the ground.
And DON'T try to cut from a ladder or when you're up a tree without anchoring yourself to something that can't come down. A climbing harness works great. After you're anchored, pull the saw up with a rope. Don't go up in the air unless you really have to and then ONLY with a spotter.
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rich sims
Trad climber
co
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Lynne
For the little you have to cut a cordless sawzall would work and be way safer.
You do not need to drag a cord or worry about dealing with a gas engine.
Still safety is key and all saws cut humans faster than trees. Also, fact you are more likely to cut your self with a dull blade than a sharp blade.
A bow saw cuts fast and only the cutter needs recharging not the tool. The longer the stroke the sweeter the cut so do not go for a short blade.
Happy cutting rich
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Lynne
I'll be ordering some more Moon pads. Good product, and they have the perfect combination of closed to open cell foam, from what I've used. Not too soft, not too hard.
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happiegrrrl
Trad climber
New York, NY
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Having seen Lynne attempting to put her tent up at Facelift, I think it would be negligent to advise anything other that "none" for a chain saw recommendation. (That's sort of a joke, about the tent set-up being an indication, but still...)
Lynne - sure, they make 'putt putt' chainsaws with very little power, but even so - there's really not much room for error, when you f*#k up while operating a chain saw.
People are utterly desperate for work. Post an ad on Craiglist (or even Supertopo!) and hire some dude (or experienced woman) to get those trees. Or post a request that you have free wood available for the person who will cut and haul. People with wood-burning stoves will be at your beckoned call, if you post in the right forum.
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