Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
bmacd
Trad climber
British Columbia
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 20, 2010 - 01:24am PT
|
What is the history of ascents and attempts of this spectacular face ?
pic 1
pic 2
pic 3
pic 4
pic 5
Summit elevation 13,186 FT
|
|
hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
|
|
|
Jan 20, 2010 - 02:14am PT
|
whats that formation in the background of pic 5, over on the right side. Damn amazing looking stuff there.
|
|
bmacd
Trad climber
British Columbia
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 20, 2010 - 02:22am PT
|
hoipolloi - that's Combatant - the buttress is "Skywalker", a Scott Flavelle route on a subsidiary peak.
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Jan 20, 2010 - 10:17am PT
|
I heard that the topo maps aren't that good for the area... more Canuck sandbagging...
|
|
Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
|
|
|
Jan 20, 2010 - 12:21pm PT
|
But if you walk in .............oh dear.........
The folks that first climbed the Kiwi Route did that. And then there's Kobus Barnard and partner, who paddled from Vancouver Island, hiked in from tidewater, reached the summit, and reversed everything.
|
|
apogee
climber
|
|
|
Jan 20, 2010 - 12:35pm PT
|
Bump for more Waddington tales....
It's always been on my 'someday' list.
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Jan 21, 2010 - 01:26am PT
|
on top of the normal heinousness of the place...
...i've heard from my friend Lawrence that when he hiked into the area (not to climb!) they found a slight rearrangement of the terrain on the topo maps, somehow ground truth hadn't crept into them yet...
he kept mumbling about devil's claw, we Americans expect the rain... he'd also chant "bear, bear..." a lot after that trip, whenever we were in the back county.
only hearsay, I wasn't there.
|
|
Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
|
|
|
Jan 21, 2010 - 01:32am PT
|
Tami and Ghost, I am disappointed: not one plug for the Mundays?
I know they didn't try the S Face but they were pretty much
hardness distilled. They should be required reading.
Them and Crusoe of Lonesome Lk.
|
|
Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
|
|
|
Jan 21, 2010 - 02:21am PT
|
Tami,
You're too easy, well, so to speak. I just pretend to ignore
your posts so I can provoke you to further enlighten the great
unwashed. Now my cover is blown. Who cares what anybody did
after the Mundays? It is hard to see how a biographer could
top their book but I'll gladly give it a go. Thanks! Oh, and
thanks for 'spazing' me; it is a singular honour (note the quaint spelling).
Now I can rest my cretinous head in peace.
|
|
bmacd
Trad climber
Beautiful British Columbia
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 21, 2010 - 02:47am PT
|
so has anybody got on this face ever or what ?
|
|
rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
|
|
|
Feb 20, 2010 - 03:46am PT
|
bump for Waddington. Any more stories?
What's the standard route? SE I think. Anyone done it?
|
|
Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
|
|
|
Feb 20, 2010 - 01:39pm PT
|
^^^^^ Kanadian stock brokers? Are we talking Angus or Herefords?
|
|
bmacd
Trad climber
Beautiful BC
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2010 - 01:50pm PT
|
Looks like a good summit to chopper in a bunch of snowboarders I used to know. Plenty of opportunity for them to demonstrate their athleticism snowboarding those black sections down to the glacier col ....
|
|
maldaly
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
|
|
|
Feb 20, 2010 - 03:29pm PT
|
I guided 3 people up the Bravo Col route in 1984. We totally cheated by lucking out on the weather. !! days in and never had a cloudy day. Bravo ice fall was chaos, headwall above was epic, rock tower was frozen choss and we ended up rapping down at night off of piles of rocks we made.
Unforgettable.
Mal
|
|
Chief
climber
|
|
|
Feb 23, 2010 - 03:49am PT
|
I would encourage anyone interested in the Waddington area to check out my recent post, California is not buying Green Energy from BC
I was just up at the Homathko camp on Saturday, porpoises in the estuary, river full of cutthroat and bulltrout, all in plain view of Bute Mountain and Mount Waddington. Contemplating the plans they have for the area is depressing.
If we don't try to do something about it, we deserve to lose it.
Why the hell isn't the Waddington Range a National Park or World Heritage Site anyways? We're to busy focused on 'Owning the F#%$^%ing Podium!
|
|
Chief
climber
|
|
|
Feb 23, 2010 - 10:47am PT
|
Bumping this thread.
|
|
Chief
climber
|
|
|
Feb 23, 2010 - 12:08pm PT
|
I'm challenging all fellow Canucks and Yank mountaineers to pay attention to what's about to happen under the south face of Waddington if the Schwarzenegger/Campbell/Plutonic/General Electric Cabal isn't stopped dead in their tracks this year. The sixteen largest tributaries of the Homathko, Southgate and Orford rivers will be completely diverted into multiple KILOMETERS of steel pipe, upstream of critical salmon bearing habitat, so that private power can be sold to California as "Green Energy".
While we're distracted by the razzle dazzle of the Olympics, agreements, accords, compacts and MOUs are being signed and legislated.
PAY ATTENTIOn! WE'RE LOSING BCs COAST RANGE TO PRIVATE POWER PRODUCERS.
|
|
bmacd
Trad climber
Beautiful BC
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2010 - 01:35pm PT
|
There would have to be some sort of court action launched to stop work at this point. Whats the Sierra Club in Victoria doing at this point ? Timmc's Dad used to be at the helm there. Ask Tim or get on their case directly in Victoria.
I agree it's a mess up there. The green movement ain't so green.
What were the circumstances that got you up there last week ?
|
|
Chief
climber
|
|
|
Feb 23, 2010 - 01:53pm PT
|
Hi Bruce,
I hadn't been up to Bute since 84-85 when I logged out of Scar Creek and wanted to refresh my memory.
I chartered a Cessna 172 out of Campbell River and flew in with Rob and Laurie Wood, two of the founding members of Friends of Bute.
(Rob is a good friend of British mountaineering legend Doug Scott and he climbed both Mt Waddington and the Directissima on Colonel Foster with Doug. Rob and Laurie have been quietly guiding tours into Bute for a couple decades.)
I have been suggesting we need to raise public awareness of what's at stake in Bute and on the coast of BC.
As Rob says, nothing explains it better than Bute does when you're there in person.
We flew into the Homathko camp and visited with Chuck and Sharon the owners of the camp. Chuck's an old logger who's very interested in having people come to stay in his camp and enjoy Bute for the fishing, hiking and mountaineering. They have furnished rooms for up to thirty guests and have a beautiful kitchen and camp style dining room, all right on the east bank of the Homathko.
I'm suggesting we need to get as many people as possible into Bute this year to raise awareness of what's at stake.
Climb some peaks, walk a river, hire a guide, kayak on the estuary, paddle some steep drops, explore new mountain biking.
Have a big festival, make a documentary, protest, tell the world, stop this f^%^&^*&ing madness!
Water taxi from Campbell River approx $900 per trip, seats 12 less than $200 return.
Cessna 172 from Campbell River approx $400 each way, seats 3
Float or wheel plane from Vancouver
Helicopter from Campbell River or Vancouver for the wealthy.
Accomodation at Chuck and Sharon's approx $125-50 per day meals included.
I'm going to try to get back one more time before my March 11 shoulder surgery which will take me out of action on this for a little while.
ps. Clients are currently having forty plus fish days with Cutthroat over six pounds and Bull trout up to twelve pounds coming up for waked dry flies. Single barbless, catch and release, zero retention. Gotta get back quick.
Butefest, August 2010?
Let's get on it!
Help!
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!