Cathedral and Whitehorse Ledges TR - 1979

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Ed Hartouni

Trad climber

Livermore, CA

Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 17, 2010 - 03:30am PT

Trip Report - September 21, 1979
New Hampshire Rock Climbing
Ed Hartouni, Mike, Richie, and Bill...

Perhaps the first climbing trip/photos that I have were taken on this trip from New York to New Hampshire to climb at Cathedral and Whitehorse Ledges. I'm not sure I recall all the details. They lived in New York City, while I had moved to Tarrytown, up the Hudson River north of the city that year. However we arranged to meet, we had a 360+ mile drive up to North Conway.

I'm guessing we drove up as early as possible on Friday 9/21. We were in my 1961 split window VW bus, California license plate, gold on brown, ZOT580. Here we are at a pit stop along the way
That's Mike, Richie and Bill, left-to-right.

[these negatives are Kodak Kodacolor II which are not in the greatest of shape... there are a lot of artifacts, fading, etc... the camera was a Kodak Signet 35 Camera, with a Kodak Ektar Lens, 44mm f3.5 which Debbie's sister gave to us]

We setup camp somewhere outside of North Conway, but i don't recall where, it seems to have been a real campground as we have a picnic table...

I'm pretty sure that Mike and Bill slept in the tent, Richie in the yellow tube tent and I slept in the bus.

While both Mike and I had climbed and camped as kids, I'm not sure that either Bill or Richie ever had... perhaps there was some skepticism that food could be cooked on a Bluet stove?

Getting organized for the climb... Mike is wearing classic trousers, revealing his patches as he leans into the van to sort gear

We motor out to the crag, it is a bit different today I know...
Richie finds some friends tied up waiting for their owners to return.

There is nothing quite so wonderful as walking through the woods in the northeast in autumn.

Since Richie and Bill have had only limited climbing experience (probably a few times in the 'Gunks) we pick Beginner's Route 5.4 on Whitehorse Ledge. The Ross and Ellms 1978 guide warns:

"This route is easy but only if one is used to friction climbing on Whitehorse. Beginner climbers should be cautious of attempting to lead the climb as the runouts between protection are long."

It is shown as a 10 pitch climb. Mike belays Bill up the first pitch. I probably lead Richie on the second rope.

And further up the slab Mike and Bill at some belay

The views are typical of the Mt. Washington Valley... verdant.

At the top (?) getting the kit together... state-of-the-art rack for 1979!

The next day we set off for Cathedral Ledge. We choose Refuse 5.5 a five pitch climb.

"One of the most popular routes on the cliff. A good introduction to Cathedral for intermediate climbers."

Here is Mike leading the first pitch:

And the next pitch is described thus "Climb the large fir tree at the back of the ledge to the long large tree covered ledge. Note: the off width, slightly overhanging crack in the corner on the right of the tree can be climbed at 5.8. It is usually dirty and poorly protected." We opted for the tree, here Mike leads through:
note the tied off limb. You can also see the "usually dirty" off width crack! I hear the tree has departed and the route goes someplace else now.

Looking across the valley...
somewhere over there Bierstadt painted these cliffs before there were all the trees...
Moat Mountain, Intervale, New Hampshire, ca. 1862 Albert Bierstadt

Here is a picture of me leading, not so sure how far the top is from here...
...fashionable orange-and-black rugby shirt... maybe they'll come back into style?!

My guess is that we touristed around a bit, checking out the climbs for "the next time"
and what climbs we might do... here I'm pointing out something to Mike and Bill, apparently Richie took this shot (damn hard to see if things were in focus in that tiny view finder).

I've been back several times to these cliffs to climb over the decades but I don't think that Bill or Richie or Mike had been. I have climbed with Mike in the White Mountains, but that was mostly in the winter, and on ice. Mike and I have climbed many other places together over 30+ years, just not N.Conway.

We left on Sunday for the long drive back and were at work on Monday... all of us graduate students at Columbia U.

Sorry for being a bit late on the TR, it sure doesn't seem like 30 years ago.

Tomcat

Trad climber

Chatham N.H.

Jan 17, 2010 - 07:57am PT

Nice Ed ! Great to see those old shots. Everyone had a rugby shirt...lol.

The campground everyone stayed in was North Conway Pines,right near the cliff,your picture looks like it was taken there.The picture of you leading "Upper Refuse" is early on in the upper section,with one shorter pitch above that one.A certain well traveled and renowned climber often signs his letters to Alpinist with the address "Upper Refuse NH".

The Taco's own JimE has a fine and funny tale to tell about the Refuse tree,but it's his to tell,so I'll hope he sees your thread.

Thanks for sharing.

adamiata

Ice climber

Candia, NH

Jan 17, 2010 - 08:56am PT

Awesome trip report.

I've only heard the legend of the Lower Refuse tree, so this was the first time I've gotten to see it.

I'm going to have to look for a print of that Cathedral/Whitehorse painting. I really like it.

mooser

Trad climber

seattle

Jan 17, 2010 - 09:19am PT

Thanks, Ed. I love TRs like this. Also love the tube tent! Until I sold my '67 Westy five years ago (one my life's regrets), I did practically every road trip in that, or a 64 bus, or a '67 bug. There's just something "right" about that, you know? Anyway, thanks for the trip!

slabbo

Trad climber

fort garland, colo

Jan 17, 2010 - 09:43am PT

Ya North Conway pines camp. I used to sleep under the table so I would only get a few rain strips on me. The Refuse tree got so bad that it was like the tree on Royal Arches, just kinda there. JimE's story of the tree is great- it needs to be told again.

Edge

Trad climber

New Durham, NH

Jan 17, 2010 - 09:59am PT

Great TR, Ed.

Ah, yes, my old stomping ground. 1979 was the tear I graduated high school, and from roughly '78 - 84 I probably climbed over 80 days each year there. I remember that old Refuse tree fondly; sadly it's demise made Funhouse even more popular as an approach to the upper pitches.

Here is my friend Steve attempting the crux of Diedre in '80. I tried and also backed off. We returned to the truck and had a couple beers each and some herbal courage before returning where I fired the crux and steve sent the final handcrack. Atop the climb he pulled a Heineken can out of his chalk bag for us to share.

Steve leading the classic corner pitch.

My daughter's first climb was also Beginners on Whitehorse. Here she is at age 7 in 1995; she graduates college this year summa c#m laude with a mathmatics and education degree.

Edge

Trad climber

New Durham, NH

Jan 17, 2010 - 11:03am PT

Here's our very own Slabbo trying to find microcrystals to crimp inside a perfectly good crack.

This was probably taken sometime around 1983, maybe on Cathedral's "Rollin' and Tumblin'.

Or maybe not. Strand any recollection?

slabbo

Trad climber

fort garland, colo

Jan 17, 2010 - 11:24am PT

Must be a long time ago'cause I got socks on.I got NO idea about the route, I have done R&T but....... Nice 2" swami too. I just got some slides from BITD put on disk so there will be some old shots coming soon

john

Rick A

climber

Boulder, Colorado

Jan 17, 2010 - 11:26am PT

Nice, Ed.
I had my first trip to those crags not long after, in 1982.
I really enjoyed the climbing there.
Rick

Edge

Trad climber

New Durham, NH

Jan 17, 2010 - 11:41am PT

Looks like you were wearing Fires, so definitely early 80's. Couldn't find the ascent in my notes, but I think I recall climbing Rollin' & Tumblin' with a third?

J. Werlin

Social climber

Cedaredge, CO

Jan 17, 2010 - 12:49pm PT

Thank you for the excellent TR Ed. Really enjoyed the artistic interlude as well.

Edge

Trad climber

New Durham, NH

Jan 17, 2010 - 02:16pm PT

Cathedral/Whitehorse fans will have no trouble identifying these two images:

Climbed a week or two after walking under the FAists as they put it up.

My butt doing my preferred climb, avoiding the piss easy Beast Flake.

Mark Hudon

Trad climber

Hood River, OR

Jan 17, 2010 - 02:26pm PT

Dang! That looks like so long ago! The last time I climbed there was in 1978. Great shots, they really brings back some memories.

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Jan 17, 2010 - 02:36pm PT

Sweet nostagic TR, Ed!

Edge

Trad climber

New Durham, NH

Jan 17, 2010 - 02:38pm PT

Mark, I love the rack shown for the Bridge. Three of us climbed that, pooled all our big cams, and still ended up placing at least half hexes.

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber

Livermore, CA

Topic Author's Reply - Jan 17, 2010 - 02:52pm PT

the time of Rugby shirts, white painter's pants and EBs,
and a rack of stoppers and hexes with tied slings...

simple things

The "Columbia University Mountaineers" in 2007
Lawrence, me, Bill, Richie and Mike..

...and Gen 1 of 510 OW...

at Porcupine Flats Campground, near Tuolumne Meadows....

bluering

Trad climber

Santa Clara, Ca.

Jan 17, 2010 - 04:05pm PT

pretty sweet, Ed!

tradchick

Trad climber

White Mountains

Jan 17, 2010 - 06:33pm PT

Edge: Is your first shot of Childrens Crusade?

The second must be the chimney on Recompense? Also my favorite climb on Cathedral but I prefer the beast flake variation.