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kinnikinik
Trad climber
B.C.
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 8, 2009 - 12:45pm PT
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I don't know what to say, but suffice that there has been some fun going on up here. I guess a few photo's would helpThis is the main Eldred area.and these are some wallsthis is the west main wall about 800m tallthis is Carag-Dur 600mThis one we call Amon Rudh 500mand this is psyche slab 500m,the most popular formation in the Valley.some characters I suppose thats enough for now
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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whoa! great share - thanks!
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Climbing dropout
Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
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Thanks for the photos. How about a commentary on access, and new route activities for the past year ? I have been to the Eldred once only, many many years ago
Whats the deal with the river crossing nowa days ? Permanent Tyrolean established ?
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Fletcher
Trad climber
somewhere approaching Ajna
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This monkey sez, "Good stuff!"
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Amazing place. Thanks for posting those pictures.
We went to the Eldred domes just once, and because we screwed up the ferry schedule, we wound up with just half a day of climbing, but we've promised ourselves that we'll go back.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C. Small wall climber.
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Thanks, Colin!
For those wondering, the Eldred valley is northeast of Powell River, which in turn is up the coast from Vancouver. It takes two ferries (synchronized) to get there, and about an hour driving on a decent logging road. So overall it takes a good half day to get there from Vancouver.
It is a valley formed by glaciation, but not quite a fjord. Still, there's a lot of rock in the Eldred, a lot of potential, and a lot of freedom. Local climbers have established a fair number of climbs, and there's even a guidebook. (Climber's Guide to Powell River - Chris Armstrong.) They've also established a camp that is relatively central to the climbing, and given the proximity of a 'mini'-hydro development, it appears that access will continue. (We have big problems with logging roads washing out.) Plus are a friendly bunch, and there is also some climbing right in or near Powell River.
There can be long periods of stable weather there in summer, although it is in a rain forest.
There are innumerable fjords up the BC coast, most of which have fine granitic walls, but most are very difficult to reach without a good boat. Howe Sound (leading to Squamish) is the southernmost, although there are fjords closer to the equator in Newfoundland, Chile and possibly New Zealand.
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kinnikinik
Trad climber
B.C.
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 8, 2009 - 11:51pm PT
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Access to the Eldred is the best it's been in years. Construction of the Power line through the valley has caused the powers that be to maintain the road.There are two wires fixed across the river, one at Carag-dur the other by the west mainboth trails are in good shape. Access to Amon rudh is poor due to landslides. psyche slab has excellent access,5 minutes from the road.Several parties climbed on the west main butress without summiting.A couple of things were done on carag-dur without summits and a new eight pitch route was climbed on psyche slab.Andy and co. climbed three new routes in the Khartoum valley nearby. All in all a good season in an obscure area.
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Climbing dropout
Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
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Colin do you have pictures of the cliff left of Carag-Dur, I remember it as being beautifully featured with millions of horizontal dikes ? Or am I remembering it all wrong ?
Whats the bear situation like ? I remember going up there with a local I forgot his name but he brought a big rifle along. That's major Bigfoot country up there too ...
Do you guys camp out up there ?
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MH2
climber
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Obscure area? It has a guidebook.
And that video: No Permanent Address(?)
Very nice photo spread.
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Delhi Dog
Trad climber
Good Question...
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"For those wondering, the Eldred valley is northeast of Powell River, which in turn is up the coast from Vancouver."
Thanks MM! I was one of them.
Looks Primo!
Another place to visit!
Thanks for the photos and share.
Cheers,
DD
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Great looking place. Cool pics.
Thanks for posting.
Zander
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kinnikinik
Trad climber
B.C.
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 9, 2009 - 10:04am PT
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CD- we camp up there all the time, there is a small climbers camp near the base parking for psyche slab. It has modest facilities. The Bear situation is pretty much like everywhere in B.C. Police your food/Garbage and please don't carry guns around, you might hurt poor boo-boo.As for Sask, offer up the kokanee'shere's a shot from a foray on Carag dur this summer. I couldn't find a shot of carahdras, I have one somewhere.
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Climbing dropout
Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
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Please post as many pictures as you can, I'm enjoying this. I may have met you at the Boot pub restaurant in Whistler a few years back or perhaps when Dean Hart and I came up there in the 80's or early 90's
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pazzo
climber
Vancouver BC
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Colin,
Great topic and awesome pics!! Please keep them coming.
On a side note,
Is the Eldrid on Crown Land? Why so rigid about taking along a simple shotgun for dangerous animal defence?
I don't want to get into the whole gun topic here with the gentle natured climbers on this board, but I'm curious about your bringing it up. Have you had issues with local rednecks shooting at moving 'creatures' on the big granite walls?
Thanks!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Hey CAD did anything get done in the upper powell or Daniels this year? I heard a rumour there was a crew going up to the John Clarke Wall in the Daniels with big wall gear and two weeks to burn but I can't remember where i heard it...
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Thx for the general location information guys. Helps to put a pic with a place.
all I can say, wow!
get after it!
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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What a great looking area, and not overrun.
Thanks for all the cool pix!
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Wow! Thanks for the post. I hate to confess this, but I'd not heard of the area until today. My first thought when I saw the first picture was "where in the Valley is this?" I've always thought Vancouver is a beautiful and sophisticated city, but I didn't know it had areas that appear relatively undeveloped in such close proximity.
John
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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So the rock is clean enough that you're finding good routes ground up?
Inspiring photos, looks like a beautiful place to climb.
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