Surrealistic Pillar Direct 5.10b

Currently 4.0/5

Lover's Leap, Lower Buttress

Lake Tahoe, California, USA

Trip Report

a wee whipper, off the couch and rope solo on surrealistic pillar derelect direct

Thursday July 18, 2013 10:09pm

boring as shite but
it's a slight improvement
over my aimless and
off topic prose of usual.

the clip vaguely illustrates
the mechanics of travel
for the silent partner's partner,
plus the last frames show
the anchor catching the fall.

i retreated from this route
which is overhanging at the crux,
so i couldn't really secure
a stance to reel the 20' of
slack back in before heading
off for another attempt at the crux.

[Click to View YouTube Video]

Trip Report Views: 3,381

Norwegian

About the Author
Norwegian is a trad climber from dancin on the tip of god's middle finger.

Comments

Norwegian

Trad climber

dancin on the tip of god's middle finger

Author's Reply

Jul 18, 2013 - 10:42pm PT

fixed it.

neebee

Social climber

calif/texas

Jul 18, 2013 - 11:18pm PT

hey there say, norwegian... can't see it, so can't tell what this is...

sounded interesting though, ;)

god bless to you eve!
:)

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber

Livermore, CA

Jul 18, 2013 - 11:29pm PT

pretty soft fall...

mcreel

climber

Barcelona

Jul 19, 2013 - 01:10am PT

If I were you, I would solo up the 5.7, set a line, and minitraxion that about 4X in 15 minutes.

MisterE

Gym climber

Small Town with a Big Back Yard

Jul 19, 2013 - 01:22am PT

I got like 3 minutes in before the hypnotic, swinging rope put me to sleep.

Norwegian

Trad climber

dancin on the tip of god's middle finger

Author's Reply

Jul 19, 2013 - 07:53am PT

mccreel i ended up soloing up the
1st proper pitch of surrealistic
and rapped down to clean my gear.
i did top rope the stunt, clean.

like i said, ed. wee whipper.
upon further review by my esteemed peers,
i now officially demote
the fall to
'wee wanker whipper.'

eric, like i said,
super boring flick.

as a soloist,
it is difficult to document my efforts,
so this was an experiment with the go-pro.

total flop,
though i yearn for the entire
world to know of my astuteness and
viral fortitude,
so now you all are informed,
except neebee she couldn't see
it but she always gives us
the benefit of the doubt.

mcreel

climber

Barcelona

Jul 19, 2013 - 07:43am PT

That film is destined to become a reference point in history of the climbing buttshot.

Heh, heh, just joking, of course.

healyje

Trad climber

Portland, Oregon

Jul 19, 2013 - 08:01am PT

Nice run at it Weege!

I used to do something similar relative to hanging stacks of rope on my harness, but gave it up as untenable having the rope everywhere and the weight hanging off me. Also never came to terms with the size of the SP despite the brilliant design and engineering involved with it.

So, for the past decade (or whenever it first came out) I've used an Edelrid Eddy with the rope in a backpack which works better for me than all the other approaches I've tried over the years, but off course it's definitely a YMMV sort of deal.

mcreel

climber

Barcelona

Jul 19, 2013 - 09:28am PT

I use the same setup, healyje, having profited from some of your past posts. Rope soloing can actually be pretty fun - I solo up the easiest route around, then minitraxion everything I can get to. It's a good workout, no off time belaying. I work on my social skills by posting on the internet.

mouse from merced

Trad climber

The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.

Jul 19, 2013 - 10:00am PT

New Thread Topic occurred to me here.

What Grateful Dead Song Were You Listening to Right When You Thought I AM Gonna Die!?

Good effort, DMT JR.

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber

Livermore, CA

Jul 19, 2013 - 11:54am PT

not casting aspersions here, 'wege...

a fall is a fall, once you submit to the causal chain probable futures await each subsequent action...
...in this case, you bounce softly onto the cord... better than a bounce onto the ground.

as for cinematography, there were some nice effects (like the pendulous rope) and some cautions (like the autofocus)

Captain...or Skully

climber

Boise, ID

Jul 19, 2013 - 01:24pm PT

I can dig it, though your method looks potentially snarly with cords.
Nevertheless, good share man.

MtnSavior

Mountain climber

El Paso, TX

Jul 19, 2013 - 01:29pm PT

Nice one, led it during the heat wave at the end of june. Thing was greasy and full of bees, and no wind hit the corners so it was a sweatbox.

Norwegian

Trad climber

dancin on the tip of god's middle finger

Author's Reply

Jul 21, 2013 - 04:19pm PT

mouse im just finishing my response to
your inquiry,
it took me all of fourty eight plus hours.

it was bertha.
i had a feeling i was falling!

[Click to View YouTube Video]

and, though im flattered of your suggested
relation between a keen writer (DMT) and i,

i truely come from a long line of charles',
i sport an i.v. at the suffix of my name.

though not quite a king am i,
i have a needle or two.