Trip Report
Star Trekkin on Mount Russell C2C
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Sunday June 29, 2014 8:11pm
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Why is Star Trekkin on the cover of the first edition of the Supertopo High Sierra Guide but there is no mention of the route in the entire guide? Why is there not a single Supertopo trip report on this ultra classic route? Why is all the online beta for the exit move variable? Stating either super sketch 5.11 or dirty 5.10 offwidth. I decided to put the mystery to rest.
It had been a year and half since my last outdoor lead. As we hiked to the base, old memories flooded my head. I was back in the Sierras; my second home. Being in the Sierras was like reuniting with an old friend after a long time apart. Where you can just pick up just where you left off. I had tried to climb this route three years ago with Miguel but ended up never getting around to it for some reason. Now was the time to do it. I was back in action and ready to charge.
You can read the full report here:
http://theclimbingdoctor.com/2014/06/star-trekkin-car-to-car/
F.Y.I. My previous post name was JspencerV but has been changed to TheClimbingDoctor
The Climbing Doctor
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About the Author
The Climbing Doctor is a trad climber from Santa Monica, CA. |
Comments
Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Jun 29, 2014 - 08:29pm PT
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Hey that was an exciting and nostalgic read. Enjoyed your final thoughts, too; my sentiments exactly! TFPU!
PS Watch that cholesterol, doc! :)
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
https://nutagain.org
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Jun 29, 2014 - 08:36pm PT
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Nice reportage! Inspiring me to not give up on climbing in this time-challenged phase of my life, going to look for more chances to squeeze it in.
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Jun 29, 2014 - 09:09pm PT
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Right on, Doc!! talk about kickin' ass off the couch!
nice way to get back into leading outside!
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Jun 29, 2014 - 09:47pm PT
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hey there say, the climbing doctor,
thanks for sharing...
enjoyed this... :)
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RyanD
climber
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Jun 29, 2014 - 10:16pm PT
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Sick life!!
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jun 29, 2014 - 11:19pm PT
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Thanks for the 'money pitch' photo!!! That's the kind image that keeps me going back to even 5.7 slab pitches.
Which is the best route on Russell?
Is your combination on Star Treckkin -> Mithral possibly the easiest in that area of the face?
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looks easy from here
climber
Santa Cruzish
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Jun 30, 2014 - 12:38am PT
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I've also always been a bit perplexed by the decision to put Startrekkin' on the cover but not include it in the guide. Mebbe for the 3rd edition?
There are really four things that draw me to climbing: Goal setting, problem solving, suffering and freedom.
Amen.
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msiddens
Trad climber
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Jun 30, 2014 - 09:25am PT
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Such a great route!
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whitemeat
Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
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Jun 30, 2014 - 10:15am PT
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That "money pitch" photo makes me really, really, really, want to go climb that rock! Nice photos!
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Jun 30, 2014 - 10:36am PT
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Wow! Beautiful pics and an excellent TR. What a nice way to start my week. Thanks much.
John
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Impaler
Social climber
San Francisco
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Jun 30, 2014 - 10:43am PT
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Nice pictures! So, why didn't you try finishing straight up after the 4th pitch if you've done Mithral before? By the way, if doing the link up of the 3 routes, it's possible to downclimb the 5.0 south face chute (see Secor guide), which brings you back to the base pretty quickly. It's mostly 3rd class rubble and takes about 40 min from summit to base.
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Jun 30, 2014 - 11:26am PT
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next up Western Front! That's the best route on Russell
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Stevee B
Trad climber
Oakland, CA
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Jun 30, 2014 - 04:10pm PT
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Love the pizza rations. Props to the Spaniard on the crux pitch. Great TR, getting me jazzed. TFPU!
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msiddens
Trad climber
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Jun 30, 2014 - 05:04pm PT
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What- Western is better? I got to lead the money pitch but now I need to go back
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Jun 30, 2014 - 05:44pm PT
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Boo yah! Beautiful send and write up. Thanks Doc!
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jun 30, 2014 - 05:54pm PT
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Killer!
Easy to tell by the photos how fun it was.
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Very nice, beautiful rock!!!
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Reeotch
climber
4 Corners Area
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Nice TR!
I remember looking over at that stuff from Mithral.
Such a dreamy area, and high elevation to boot!
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johntp
Trad climber
Punter, Little Rock
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The money pitch looks super sweet.
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Thank you! Awesome shots and well done.
So, overall, you found the hardest moves to be 10a, give or take? That money pitch...DAMN!
BAd
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Leggs
Sport climber
Made in California, living in The Old Pueblo
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There are really four things that draw me to climbing: Goal setting, problem solving, suffering and freedom.
Goal setting: The process of envisioning a climb, setting a date, getting nervous about it and then taking the steps to make it a reality.
Problem solving: Unlocking the moves, determining how much protection to place and the adventure of getting lost while trying to find the route
Suffering: Putting everything you’ve got in your tank into a single objective and feeling thrashed at the end. The more physical the challenge, the bigger the reward.
Freedom: Being in nature with silence. Freedom of the hills. No email or cell service.
Awesome and inspirational! Thanks for sharing! GREAT photos!
~peace
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The Climbing Doctor
Trad climber
Santa Monica, CA
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Author's Reply
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Jul 3, 2014 - 09:59pm PT
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"Is your combination on Star Treckkin -> Mithral possibly the easiest in that area of the face?"
Nope. Star Trekin goes at 5.10b/c because of the crux bulge, so Mithral is still easier.
"So, overall, you found the hardest moves to be 10a, give or take?"
Yeah. I would say so. But I was following that pitch, so what do I know...
"next up Western Front! That's the best route on Russell"
You just read my mind.
"So, why didn't you try finishing straight up after the 4th pitch if you've done Mithral before?"
Wan't in the mood to leapfrog one 4 and a 3.5 up 5.10 off width. Plus Mithral's last pitch is super classic.
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The route as seen from Mt. Whitney summit. Photo: Chris McNamara
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Other Routes on Mt. Russell
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| Fishhook Arete, 5.9
Mt. Russell
The route as seen from the summit of Whitney. |
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| East Ridge, 3rd class
Mt. Russell
The route as seen from the summit of Whitney. |
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