Trip Report
SQIAD
Monday January 3, 2011 2:44pm
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I had just finished my final exams, and NEEDED to get off the deck. But where may one do such in the middle of December? Thankfully, the Valley gods graced us with a dry weekend and minimal snow just after my finals ended. Game on.
The team was as follows:
1) Elliot Faber AKA Faberaid
Faber is a crafty and unassuming 20 year old whose infectious psyche and enthusiasm is capable of clearing the heaviest of Yosemite storms. He is extremely talented with tools and is destined to become a great aid climber. He recently soloed the WF of Leaning Tower.
2) Zach Parke aka Zacksquatch
Zach is a multifaceted bike messenger with a quiet, yet uncontrollable affinity for climbing. Zach has his own company, Prototype, and makes handmade chalk bags, wall hammocks (see Mark Hudon's Shield TR), Aiders, and really anything you may ask him to. Buy his stuff. He also recently sent Mescalito.
3) Mark Seelos AKA Mittens
A veteran supertopo Troll, you may recognize me as an annoyance with nothing worthwhile to contribute to this forum. As such, take this trip report as an apology for all of those "Grack Redpoint" Posts. If you've climbed a wall in Yosemite in the last year, you may have seen me bailing off of it. Yet still determined to break "free" of my free climbing comfort zone, aid climbing is finally starting to become first nature.
Our friend Scott gave us the beta that the Column was the wall to do, and the route we settled on was Skull Queen.
We hiked out to the base the night before after cragging at the Cookie. We slept in that sweet little cave and started climbing at 5:15ish
We used the "SHORT FIXING" method, which kicks ass! The first four pitch block was mine, and I climbed fast, doing a ton of free climbing.
Zach Crushed the second block quick, but bloodied his finger while testing a micronut on the 6th pitch. (Fixed heads are missing on this pitch). Sadly, the only photo we got of Zach leading his block sucked, but Faber got a nice one of his feet.
Also notable in Zach's block is that he got through the 5.9 OW by standing ON the #5 cam and thrutching a few feet past it in approach shoes.
Next came Faber's block. The 9th pitch went fast with many fixed heads, bringing us to the Clance Stance.
This next pitch was the crux of the climb and Faber's Hardest aid lead to date. He crushed it and had fun the whole time!
The next pitch went fast: a spectacular paper-thin lieback flake slabbing out onto the top of the column.
We made the summit at 5:15ish, 12 hours after we started.
The NDG was EASY AS EVER, as much of the snow has melted and made the dusty kitty litter into hard packed dirt. It went fast and soon we were back at the base.
We met our friend Shaun and Faber's Faberette, Sarah, back in Camp 4 and after hanging out for an hour, Zach, Sean, and I made the drive back to Santa Cruz (enduro crux). We stopped once en route for Chalupas (no meat), which are ONLY good after a long day of climbing.
We all had a lot of fun, and were psyched to get such a nice weekend in the middle of Winter. We can't wait to climb another route! I see this as the first of many wall sends this year!
Thanks for reading!
Mittens
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About the Author Mittens is a climber from Santa Cruz. |
Comments
murcy
Gym climber
sanfrancisco
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Suite! Thanks for the great TR!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Good job. Summit Smokes are cool.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Good Job fellas!
I love Washington Column (4 ascents total) and I love the cigar finish. You must have been pretty "burnt".
Thanks for dragging me along!
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Excellent! The Kids come through again.
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Mark Not-circlehead
climber
Martinez, CA
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Great ascent. I did SQ in 1992or93, in a couple days. Good route. Took my first (and only) fall on aid on the crux pitch. Crappy micronuts in crappy rock = 40' fall.
Good job, and was fun reading your account.
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Prod
Trad climber
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Nice
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Cool adventure, thanks for taking us there.
More fun Than soloing Chouinard Herbert and down climbing SS?
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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If you have nothing to contribute to this forum you are a hero of mine, already. Nice TR, though.
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Muddud
Social climber
the Cruz of Santa, CA
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nice stogey faces on that last one, mark. crikey, you write like a college student! :D
naw, that looks rad! i'll keep living vicariously through you and faber/zack.
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squeakyboater
climber
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Nice job, and no mention of the fact that you climbed through a tree?
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marv
Mountain climber
Bay Area
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excellent
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Way to tick off the queen!
I almost died on that route from 100+ degree temps.
You guys looked comfy.
Mucci
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
On the road.
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Looks like it was fun! (I guess I better get to work on my Shield TR, eh?)
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Yep-me likka this Report. Sense of humor is always a plus and looks like you had a great voyage. Looking forward to more.
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Nice Job boys, thanks for posting up!
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squatch
Boulder climber
santa cruz, CA
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good stuff!
yeah pretty psyched on the next one!
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Mittens
climber
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Author's Reply
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Jan 4, 2011 - 02:42am PT
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It's funny, the crap photo mentioned earler was of Zach climbing through the said tree!
Here it is:
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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5.9 OW by standing ON the #5 cam and thrutching a few feet
will have to try that one. new techniques are where you find them.
heh
nice job guys!
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jahil
Social climber
London, Paris, WV & CA
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I love you guys.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Nice work guys. Reminded me of a similar, youthful, eleventh hour trip up the Prow BITD. Glad to see the post-climb stogie tradition hasn't skipped a generation.
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squeakyboater
climber
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Ahh, climbing through a tree. That route is supper cool.
Why do people do the south face instead? that said I have only rappeled it, but it looked way less classic that SQ.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Attitude is everything!
'Love the crisp bios.
A CultClassic TR.
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marv
Mountain climber
Bay Area
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rack beta? lay it down!
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nutjob
Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
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A ray of light in the darkness of winter... thanks for keeping the torch burning for us!
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Mittens
climber
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Author's Reply
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Jan 5, 2011 - 12:23am PT
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Wow, thanks for all the comments- this weekend's weather might be good for another one!
As far as the rack goes, we agreed that the MVPs (Most Valuable Pieces) were DMM brass and alloy offsets. Supertopo's suggestions are good. Bring offsets, you will be glad.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
Boise, ID
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Nice TR, Mittens. The Column is an Awesome rock.
Enjoyed the Memory Lane thing....Skull Queen was my 1st solo, so Yeah, your pics brought it back, Vivid!
Dig it! TFPU!
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Bump for a little more Zach
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BrianH
Trad climber
santa fe
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Aug 12, 2011 - 04:49pm PT
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Love the enthusiasm.
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crackfiend
climber
Springdale, Utah
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Aug 12, 2011 - 05:09pm PT
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nice tr mark. Hope to rope up with you again someday. I think the salathe gets the "most epic bail" award.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Aug 12, 2011 - 07:08pm PT
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Missed this the first two times. Nice Work Men!
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Aug 16, 2011 - 01:24pm PT
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awesome.
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Aug 16, 2011 - 10:12pm PT
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Good on you youth!
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fsck
climber
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Jan 30, 2012 - 05:01pm PT
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excellent.
WATCH FOR CYCLISTS
that is all.
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Dos XX
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jan 30, 2012 - 07:42pm PT
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Super Cool! It's very heartening to see a new generation of climbers go out and pull off stuff like this. Again, soooooo cool!
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Dirka
Trad climber
Hustle City
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Jan 30, 2012 - 09:51pm PT
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Great TR, thanks!
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Skull Queen. Photo: Chris McNamara
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