Trip Report
SALATHE WALL, YAYUH!!!!!
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Friday June 21, 2013 12:29pm
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cellardoor
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About the Author
cellardoor is a trad climber from berkeley,ca. |
Comments
Mark K
Social climber
San Marcos, California
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Jun 21, 2013 - 12:36pm PT
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So much psyche!
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jfailing
Trad climber
PDX
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Jun 21, 2013 - 12:39pm PT
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Cool TR! Was digging the stoke level.
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Horvath
Trad climber
CA
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Jun 21, 2013 - 01:00pm PT
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atta girl!!!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jun 21, 2013 - 03:17pm PT
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Alix,
The pitch above Hollow Flake is (or was?) actually friendly if you avoid the chimney and climb the arete on the left. There are lots of face holds out there and a crack where you can place lots of pro.
I've led that twice - in 1985 and 2007.
http://picasaweb.google.com/cgchan/ElCapSalatheJune200702
In 2007, my partner Chris (Chan) was starting to lead up the pitch - wearing hiking boots and going deep into the chimney. I made her come back down, telling her that was not the right way to go. She was kinda angry about that, and I don't blame her. But I didn't think the pitch should be a desperate struggle when it could be done easily.
I gave her the next couple of pitches to make up for it.
I don't know about the white Xs on flakes and the moving flake that you mentioned, though. Maybe things got loose on the arete and it's not safe there anymore.
That would be a bummer, as the chimney looks very burly.
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Jun 21, 2013 - 03:51pm PT
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Alix,
I knew this was you when I saw the "Yayuh!" in the title. Thanks for sharing your adventures. It was fun chillin with yall after my defeat. See you again soon hopefully!
Scott
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climbski2
Mountain climber
The Ocean
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Jun 21, 2013 - 05:19pm PT
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Grats! Isn't that a fantastic wall? That headwall pitch is so so superb.. and the little alcove funkiness after had me right back there
Anyway Thanks a bunch for posting.
Home is where the heart is
Yosemite
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Raafie
Big Wall climber
Portland, OR
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Jun 21, 2013 - 05:29pm PT
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I think I chatted with you and a friend in the Manure Pile Buttress parking lot after I came down from Zodiac in early May. It was that stretch of three wet days just after two beautiful sunny ones. You must be!
Great job on doing the Salathe, and thanks for the trip report!
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WeakEnd Warrior
Trad climber
El Cap via Detroit
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Jun 22, 2013 - 01:44am PT
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Team Detroit was psyched to get you your shoe back. I figured when I rapped in on you taking a dump and you were totally nonchalant it must be good karma. Freerider was INCREDIBLE! I still need to go back and free the Headwall, so maybe I'll see you back on The Captain.
Doug in the D
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Daphne
Trad climber
Northern California
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Jun 22, 2013 - 02:05am PT
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Not possible to flame such a great TR. Thanks!
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SCseagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Jun 22, 2013 - 12:59pm PT
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A great, great TR, Miss Alix, sorry about the elbow but it sure didn't slow you down...
Thanks for the share. ...
Susan
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kaholatingtong
Trad climber
The fake McCoy from nevernever land.
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Jun 23, 2013 - 02:11am PT
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yayuh, indeed.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
On the road.
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Jun 23, 2013 - 10:59am PT
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Great TR, Alix.
It was great to meet you and thanks for your help getting our stuff down from Lurking Fear.
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cellardoor
Big Wall climber
The Sierra
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Author's Reply
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Jun 23, 2013 - 11:50pm PT
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Team Detroit was psyched to get you your shoe back. I figured when I rapped in on you taking a dump and you were totally nonchalant it must be good karma. Freerider was INCREDIBLE! I still need to go back and free the Headwall, so maybe I'll see you back on The Captain.
Doug in the D/quote]
Thanks Again so much Doug! It was great to chat with ya on the wall.
think I chatted with you and a friend in the Manure Pile Buttress parking lot after I came down from Zodiac in early May. It was that stretch of three wet days just after two beautiful sunny ones. You must be!
Great job on doing the Salathe, and thanks for the trip report!
Raafie, yes, that was us! It was awesome to talk to you after Zodiac!
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Raafie
Big Wall climber
Portland, OR
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Jun 24, 2013 - 05:10pm PT
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Cool! You two had such positive energy--just what a guy needed after the slog down east ledges with a full haul bag. Keep up the writing. And enjoy the adventure. . . . .
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Jun 24, 2013 - 05:11pm PT
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Proud Alex
Great to see you getting it this year.
STill got that duct tape jacket? Still alive and kickin?
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jun 24, 2013 - 08:26pm PT
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Great trip report Alix!
Having just done Salathe a month or so ago I was able to relive each pitch from a different perspective.
Thanks for sharing.
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The Salathé Wall ascends the most natural line up El Cap. Photo: Mark Kroese
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