Voice From The Dust, Mt. Moroni III 5.11

Zion National Park, Utah, USA

Currently 0.0/5

Avg time to climb route: 3 hours

Approach time: 30 minutes

Descent time: 3 hours

Number of pitches: 9

Height of route: 1000'

Overview

FA: Dave Jones, Mark Austin and Stacey Allison 1983 to Pitch 3, Complete- Brian Smoot, Garret Kemper and Tommy Chandler, 11/02.

A classic Brian Smoot line. Start in the chimney just right of the big huecoed roof and then traverse left over the roof past bolts to the base of a beautiful thin-hands to hands splitter. Two pitches of sustained and classic jamming lead to a cool bolted face pitch. The upper pitches are less classic but they get you to the southern-most summit.
There are at least two more routes that go to the south summit of Moroni that climb the features between, and eventually link up with, VFD and Road to Comorah. They are; Southeast Face (Eliason/Avenali 1971) and The Movement (Bird/Colbert 2009).
Approach: start on the south face approach (pg 52) but traverse east around the corner and up-canyon. Follow the base of the wall until you are below the a large huecoed roof that marks the start of the route.

Rack: see topo
Descent: rap the route with 2 60m ropes.

Climber Beta on Voice From The Dust