Flash of the Blade, Razor Back 5.10a R |
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Tuolumne Meadows, California USA | ||
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Avg time to climb route: 2-4 hours
Approach time: 30 minutes Descent time: 30 minutes Number of pitches: 3 Height of route: 500' Overview
FA: Bryan Law, Linda Jarit, September 2008.An improbable new three-pitch route that climbs up the steep golden face in the middle of Razor Back, Flash of the Blade tackles the imposing wall left of the only old route on this part of the wall, First Verse, an Ed Barry 5.10d R from 1985. Flash of the Blade takes golden edges, knobs, and features up the face at a surprisingly moderate grade. The first pitch starts with a short heady section on tan knobs and features to a bolt 25 feet up, then climbs to a small cam placement and undercling/slab right up a shallow dihedral past a bolt to two large holes on golden rock. From the holes, climb straight up on beautiful golden edges and slab to a ledge and bolted anchor just below the big flake undercling/crack (which is hollow). There is a 5.9 section with a 15-20 foot runout in the middle of the golden slab. The second pitch starts up runout easy knobs past a small roof, then continues straight up the face past a gear placement in the top of the flake and four bolts. The final pitch climbs up past seven bolts and some runouts. Rap with one 70m or two ropes. Two 60m ropes just reach the ground from the second belay. Make sure not to lower the rope into the flake from the second pitch belay – coil and toss it to the side. Climber Beta on Flash of the Blade
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