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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 23, 2009 - 06:56pm PT
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Goodrich to the Oasis Trip Report 6/20/09
A couple of weeks ago we did Goodrich Pinnacle Right and looking up were thinking wouldn’t it be fun to just keep going. So Saturday we did. We used the Galactic Hitchiker topo off of Karl’s site.
The route is more or less the left line on this pic.
Here’s the link to the TR of the lower pitches.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=879438
Here’s a couple of more pics from Goodrich Right.
P3
P5
P6, doesn’t really show the route, I just like this pic.
The two pitches above the Pinnacle are really cool. No harder than what you’ve already done and with a bolt usually not to far below on the cruxes.
Here’s a pic of P10.
The next two pitches run together but I never found the three pins that were supposed to make up the P12 anchor, just one pin and a good crack. I think we went the wrong way on the next pitch. Here’s the way we went up and right across green and scrappy terrain.
I think we should have gone left. Here’s a pic looking around the left side of the overhang.
It’s pretty clean. Try it out if you go.
The next pitch has two ways to go. I went up to look at the 10b/9+ and decided the crux was too far above the pro. The other way is 5.6
We ran together the next two pitches. Kind of green, kind of fun.
We could see the Oasis was in the shade and only a short pitch away so we had lunch and enjoyed the views. It took us about six hours to get this far.
Here’s the anchor where we sat. Sort of typical for the apron I think.
Here’s looking up toward the Oasis.
Here’s another pic of the Oasis once we climbed up there.
There are lots of flowers blooming up there right now.
We wandered around on the ledges for a while looking for the descent route.
We decided we would need to scramble a little higher to keep going, which doesn’t exactly jibe with the descent description, though I think it’s the correct way to go. I was also a little worried about what we’d find when we got over to rock fall area above Curry. We decide to rap the route. This would have gone a little faster if our 7 mil second rope had been 200 feet. We could have linked more pitches. I had forgotten it was only 165. It worked though and it would have been heavier in my pack on the way up if it was longer.
Here is a pic from way up on the descent.
I was definitely feeling a long way from home at the moment I took it.
Another great day! See y’all.
Zander
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Jun 23, 2009 - 07:00pm PT
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Sweet TR Zander! Looks like a big day on a great stone.
Way to go on keeping up on the classics!
Now go do the Direct route on W Column!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Jun 23, 2009 - 07:04pm PT
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Pretty cool. Lot's a green up there.
Looks like a fun climb.
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 23, 2009 - 07:04pm PT
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mucci,
Yes, definitely going to do the the Direct!!
Zander
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
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Jun 23, 2009 - 07:08pm PT
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That is a GREAT route and I remember it well! My first forced (read: unplanned) bivi was at the Oasis. Our descent was EPIC as we did about 6-7 raps down a vertical wall with 1,000 year old fixed pins we hammered in with a found rock. I remember hanging off fist jams under a roof rather than weight the anchor. UGLY shite! But a great route up!
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altieboo
Boulder climber
Livermore, Ca
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Jun 23, 2009 - 07:12pm PT
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Looks awesome Zander! I'm still to sketched to wander over to the Apron. Maybe its just because I have yet to venture there at all.
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scuffy b
climber
Sinatra to Singapore
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Jun 23, 2009 - 07:26pm PT
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Nice going, Team.
These reports are really nice.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jun 23, 2009 - 07:31pm PT
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Nice TR! My hats off to slab climbers- the damn things terrify me.
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lars johansen
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Jun 23, 2009 - 08:51pm PT
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Nice TR!! Always wanted to visit the Oasis. The Direct on WC is classic. Did it 25 years ago and it felt "old "then.
Best
lars
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dogtown
climber
Cheyenne,Wyoming
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Jun 23, 2009 - 09:07pm PT
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Nice, The OS is one of the coolest places in the Valley. Wish I was there now. Thanks for the post.
Bruce.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jun 23, 2009 - 09:21pm PT
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Nice - thanks for sharing.
I climbed to near the Oasis in June 2004 with my friend Lin. trip report
We liebacked around the left side of that block in your photo; it was about 5.8.
My friends Sharon and Linda did Goodrich Right Side on Saturday, also. They saw you well up above. 4 parties on Goodrich Right Side on Saturday.
Roger and I were over above the Grack, trying to lead Perhaps. It was pretty tough - Bob Kamps was climbing hard in 1963! (But I knew that...)
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goatboy smellz
climber
goo goo ga joob, ut
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Jun 23, 2009 - 09:30pm PT
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Way to go Zander!
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Jay Wood
Trad climber
Fairfax, CA
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Jun 23, 2009 - 09:37pm PT
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Nice.
I like the left/right view of the two falls.
Was this a warm up for the full Galactic Hitchhiker?
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nutjob
climber
Berkeley, CA
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Jun 23, 2009 - 10:56pm PT
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Zander, you are getting good mileage this season. I'm jealous!
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jun 23, 2009 - 11:26pm PT
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Yup, you should have gone left here. It's a tricky but well protected move if you are wearing any pack and then there is a glassy but sometimes grassy corner (weird that it's both) that's pretty easy after that.
The anchor pins fell out in our hands on the second and third ascents of Galactic Hitchhiker. Somebody should replace them with bolts, not pins if they feel public service oriented since virtually all the fixed angles on Galactic Hitchhiker have fallen out by now. Blame the apron cracks or not enough elbow grease in the iron by the first ascent team? The lost arrows seem to be holding so maybe it's just that ice gets in there and expands on the low angle stuff.
PEace
Karl
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
North of the Owyhees
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Jun 23, 2009 - 11:57pm PT
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The Oasis is a cool, unique kinda spot.......I like it.
Good on ya, boys.
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Daphne
Trad climber
Mill Valley, CA
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Jun 24, 2009 - 12:14am PT
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So beautiful! Thanks for posting.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jun 24, 2009 - 12:27am PT
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thanks for the TR Zander... slab is good down time from the OW circuit!
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L
climber
Just takin' the long way home...
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Jun 24, 2009 - 01:08am PT
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Dang it, Zander--I can't believe how much I've missed your trip reports!!! Simply incredible photos...from the sweeping vistas to the little bluebells (or whatever the heck they are). Your narrative is always the best info-wise, too. And you guys always look like you're having the best time...makes me wonder why the hecking I'm not there, too.
I'm smiling so big it hurts.
Thanks for the excellent (as usual) TR.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Jun 24, 2009 - 01:22am PT
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thanks zander! great report, great route.
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