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rockermike
Mountain climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 30, 2009 - 03:03pm PT
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Thinking of giving Charlotte a try. Questions;
Is it too early (snow pack or wet rock)?
If coming from Bay Area, is it easier to approach from west or east (taking drive into account).
Any tricks to finding beginning of route? I've heard its tricky.
Any other useful info?
Anyone have photos that would help find and follow the route?
thanks in advance
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Dapper Dan
climber
Menlo Park
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May 30, 2009 - 03:49pm PT
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this is the start of the route .
I dont think it is too hard to find. Just keep traversing around the base of the dome and you will get to it . The supertopo was fairly accurate. The approach is pretty long overall , but not too hard.
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Joe
Social climber
Santa Cruz Mountains/Los Gatos
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May 30, 2009 - 06:22pm PT
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a number of years ago when we did the route, we went in from the west and stayed at the campground. very pleasant hike in and you can do some cragging near the car before starting your hike.
but if you choose the west approach and stay at the campground, be aware that the bears are quite aggressive, and your sleep may be interrupted. there is a bear box at the campground, which should tell you something.
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Radish
Trad climber
Seki, California
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May 30, 2009 - 09:16pm PT
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Have been working a Prescribed burn at Roaring River, down in Cedar Grove all week. Lots of wind and some rain today, almost all day. It looks like Charlotte Dome might be ready to go, but if you wait another week, it will be better.The burn is done so there won't be any smoke. The Kings river is all white and just running like crazy, looks like class 8......................
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Sean Jones
climber
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May 31, 2009 - 12:16am PT
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Ask Doug Robinson for info on this. He can probly help you alot.
Sean Jones.
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murse
Trad climber
San Clemente
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May 31, 2009 - 03:56am PT
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bump, as i'm going up there in 6 weeks. that photo looks like the start of 4th class scrambling, is that the start of climbing?
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Dapper Dan
climber
Menlo Park
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May 31, 2009 - 12:36pm PT
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to the south face route it is .
it is a little steeper than it looks i think .
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Les
Trad climber
Brooklyn
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Jun 15, 2009 - 01:40pm PT
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How's the 40' runout climbing on P9? Pretty featured/secure friction? Or pure slab?
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ec
climber
ca
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Jun 15, 2009 - 02:37pm PT
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40' ?
Small wireds may shorten that #.
Don't go there if you have to ask...to long of a walk to get shut down w/ no rap route.
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ec
climber
ca
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Jun 15, 2009 - 04:16pm PT
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at least I clued you in on some pro...and I guess you didn't view the photo...'pure friction' I think knott, but Les featured than the rest...
 ec
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mongrel
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Jun 15, 2009 - 04:18pm PT
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Climb is probably dry all winter even, but you'd have to ski a long ways. I'd recommend the west approach, especially from the Bay. We found the route extremely easily just from the old text description, so no problem. And if you wander around a bit, so what, the rock is so featured and with abundant corners and easy faces that you could go just about anywhere. Just go up and you'll be fine. No wiggy slab anywhere high up; tons of large features, really fun. Half the pitches are probably cl. 4; we could only find the one 5.7 (but slightly PG/R) pitch. People car-to-carred it casually the same day we climbed it (which was late Oct or early Nov - last weekend the road was open; short days).
Word to the wise is, bring a bunch of slings and your Tricams, they work great in that rock. SINK THE PINK!
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Les
Trad climber
Brooklyn
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Jun 15, 2009 - 05:10pm PT
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ec - I don't climb much friction in these parts, though it is available in abundance on Whitehorse Ledge. And I've climbed plenty of friction in North Carolina. What I know from experience about friction is that it's not all created equal, and that it's generally (especially at 5.8 and under) mostly a head game. So my inquiry was aimed at gauging how much time I should spend running it out up at Whitehorse before this trip to get my friction head straight. When you haven't climbed friction in a while, and you're used to pulling down on say, horizontals at the Gunks, it takes some getting re-acquainted with. Not that I should have to explain myself when posting a simple, good faith request for little honest information.
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BW
climber
Big Pine, CA
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Jun 15, 2009 - 05:35pm PT
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It's "featured friction" from what I recall. And ec's right: little nut is bomber. Then again, there's so many ways to go you may not encounter the same thing we did.
Beware the bears. Had a beauty of a cinnimon-colored bear bite into our fuel cannister. She sneezed on the gas that exploded in her mouth and walked inches from my head to Bubbs Creek to wash it out. Then after climbing the dome we ran into her again up a tree. She came down fast and started coming right at us. I'm normally nonchalant about Sierra black bears, but this one followed us up-slope a ways. She must have been pissed about the fuel in her mouth and was holding a grudge. Not sure if this is true, but hear they relocate "problem" bears from the Ditch. Bring a bear cannister and put the fuel in it as well.
I'm biased here, but the approach from the Eastside is stunning.
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Joe
Social climber
Santa Cruz Mountains/Los Gatos
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Jun 15, 2009 - 06:55pm PT
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our bear encounters there were a mixture of amorous and hostile. my buddy was awakened when a black, not ginger colored, bear was teaching him how to french kiss. we didn't get much sleep at all there. constant dancing, spanking, tossing of stones, whacking with sticks. got up close and personal with them and he/she tossed our heavy packs like toys and wedged the full bear box against a tree. took two of us to move it so we could open it.
remember more about the bear encounters than the climb itself, other than getting grappled on in October.
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rockermike
Mountain climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 15, 2009 - 07:03pm PT
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"french kiss"? do tell more.
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Jun 15, 2009 - 08:02pm PT
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Les, you might check out ec's resume, if it's the "ec" I know of in the sierra, you might take his word on this. Is that you ec joe? He ain't trying to snub you, it IS a long approach for just the hike, and I know plenty of climbers with good ability that go in, get off route and have an epic. Have fun and be safe if you go. It's a classic.
Peace
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Bad Climber
climber
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Jun 15, 2009 - 08:18pm PT
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I did it for the second time after an interval of almost 20 years last year. Such a joy! Dang, it's great. EC is right about the not-so-run-out. With some careful wireds, some small cams, slings, etc, you can keep the run-outs reasonable. You will have to smear a bit on a slanting dike like feature, but I recall some decent holds.
Have a blast!
bAd
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Joe
Social climber
Santa Cruz Mountains/Los Gatos
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Jun 15, 2009 - 08:53pm PT
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"french kiss"? do tell more.
never kiss and tell.
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
North of the Owyhees
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Jun 15, 2009 - 09:03pm PT
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Teaching to French Kiss.....constant dancing, spanking, tossing of stones, whacking with sticks......sounds like a night with Skully!
ec knows what he's talking about out there. Not elitist, just knowledgable. Have a nice trip.
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ec
climber
ca
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Jun 15, 2009 - 09:20pm PT
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'just stating the facts. Man...that didn't make me feel any better, Les. I see your point, through your explanation, thx.
Charlito, a sub-dome of Charlotte has some friction much different than on the Rowell/Beckey route, smooth and really runnout...80'
Yogi is always very aggressive there. Beware!
ec
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