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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Eric Gable....
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Cummins?
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Dapper Dan
climber
Menlo Park
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i thought in the movie , Sean Jones said he had 91 FA ?
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
Sprocketville
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Caldwell?
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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How about some other female climbers?
or was your list pretty comprehensive?
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john hansen
climber
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Never heard of Ken Ariza..?? Whats his story?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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dude,
my name is the not the first one on the FA team list.. Eric Gabel deserves all the credit for those, I'm happy to have gone up with him and helped him out.... I feel quite out of place being on any list with those climbers... heck, I'm just a duffer...
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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I have 7 or 8, all but one w/ men. Cragging and one mid-sized that wasn't my find.
Routes doesn't tell about pitches (or quality). FFA of the Nose...How can you compare obscure cragging to this with numbers?
Linda (?) did a bunch w/ gable.
Lydia Painkiller (No, really, it's russian-eque and looks like that...sorry!) has many, including hard walls.
Sue McDevitt has a million, including El Cap.
I also see Lynea Anderson on the list w/ 20 and would be shocked if that # wasn't low.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Numero Uno;....Tucker Tech;.....Buy this man a beer.....
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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The top names (in terms of total FAs or FFAs) you are missing at present are:
 Rick Cashner
Kevin Fosburg
Cade Lloyd
Jerry Anderson
Mark Chapman
Dimitri Barton
Rick Sylvester
Frank Sacherer
Bruce Morris
Dale Bard
Also, Sue Bonovich = McDevitt, so add 3 to her total.
Sean Jones and other folks like Melissa in the post-1994 years are hit and miss, because most of this info is from guidebooks, magazines or people I have asked randomly. (Send me your climbs, Melissa - I'll add 'em).
I have a similar totals program which weights by difficulty and quality. Using this weighting, the people with the highest average for hard/quality routes are Ron Kauk, John Bachar and John Long. In the next tier are: George Meyers, Roger Breedlove, Dave Schultz, Chris Falkenstein, Cade Lloyd, Joe Hedge, Kurt Smith, John Yablonski, Kevin Fosburg, Scott Cosgrove, Peter Croft, Dale Bard, Ray Jardine, Kevin Worrall, Werner Braun, Mark Chapman, Sue McDevitt, Loyd Price, and Ed Barry.
But it doesn't count number of pitches (yet). Even better would be to measure FFAs by what was done relative to what was already freed in the original route (Basket Case would be a good example), but that requires a lot more knowledge. Maybe some deduction should also be made for ease of FAs done with powerdrills, if the idea is to get some measure for the amount of time expended?
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snyd
Sport climber
Lexington, KY
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Never heard of Ken Ariza..?? Whats his story?
hahahahahahahahah!
DK?
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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It's a messy tale....
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WBraun
climber
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At the base of "Catchy" ....
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Clint & Zombi - these lists suffer mightily because of lack of input from Don Reid. True - he hasn't managed to find a publisher or grace us with his intimate knowledge of Yosemite new routes - just sayin 12 yrs worth of FAs are missing!
FWIW - I have 20 (6 5.12s - 1 El Cap)and I'm sure you're burning klaus as well *
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ablegabel
Trad climber
Livermore,Ca.
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probably 55 to 60 FA's in Yosemite Valley. 40+ are multi pitch, 3 to 10 pitch. -Eric Gabel
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Al,
> Clint & Zombi - these lists suffer mightily because of lack of input from Don Reid.
I agree.
> True - he hasn't managed to find a publisher or grace us with his intimate knowledge of Yosemite new routes - just sayin 12 yrs worth of FAs are missing!
Yep, although a few things have been reported elsewhere. I have seen a few pages from his draft but left the details off the public list because I'm hoping he'll publish eventually, and new editions are more attractive when they have some stuff never before seen.
I'm hoping he can use the list I maintain to check his info - maybe I might qualify as his "junior data lieutentant?" :-)
> FWIW - I have 20 (6 5.12s - 1 El Cap)
I have you down for 12 definites, plus 14 possibles (those are all at Mecca):
829. Allied Forces 5.9 A3, 1999, Steve Gerberding, Al Swanson, Mark Bowling, Odd-Roar Wiik, 9/1999
1385. Tidal Wave 5.11c, 1991, Al Swanson, et al, 8/1991
1732. The Chief 5.12b ***, 1992, Al Swanson, Arthur James Foley III, Brian Warshow, 8/1992; FFA: Al Swanson, Ben, Bernie
1740. Quarter Pounder 5.11b, 1996, Al Swanson, Urmas Franosch, 1996
1986. Bad Acid 5.9 ., ?, Al Swanson, Norman Boles
1996. The Punch Line 5.10d, 1986, Al Swanson, Brian Bennett, Brian Bailey, 1986
2311. Gnar Gnar 5.12a, ?, Al Swanson
2324. Morning Lumber 5.11a/b, 1999, Al Swanson, Brian Knight, 1999
2373. Pilgrimage 5.11b **, 1998, Al Swanson, Steve Gerberding, by 1998
2374. Lower Cathedral Rock - The New North Face 5.11b A3+, 1998, Al Swanson, Steve Gerberding, Mark Bowling, 8/1998
2375. Scrubby Corner 5.11a **, 1998, Al Swanson?, Steve Gerberding?, Cade Lloyd?, by 1998
2376. Meccaphobia 5.11b **, 1998, Al Swanson?, Steve Gerberding?, Cade Lloyd?, by 1998
2377. The Peasant 5.10d, 1995, Al Swanson?, Steve Gerberding?, Cade Lloyd?, by 1995
2380. un Mecca a pr. , 1998, Al Swanson?, Steve Gerberding?, Cade Lloyd?, by 1998
2381. Mechanical Advantage 5.12a **, 1998, Al Swanson?, Steve Gerberding?, Cade Lloyd?, by 1998
2383. King and I 5.11c **, 1995, Al Swanson?, Steve Gerberding?, Cade Lloyd?, by 1995
2384. King for a Day 5.11d **, 1998, Al Swanson?, Steve Gerberding?, Cade Lloyd?, by 1998
2390. Filthy Savage 5.10b *, 1998, Al Swanson?, Steve Gerberding?, Cade Lloyd?, by 1998
2391. Rock Monkey Rebellion 5.11a *, 1998, Al Swanson?, Steve Gerberding?, Cade Lloyd?, by 1998
2392. Eye of the Hurricane 5.11a **, 1998, Al Swanson?, Steve Gerberding?, Cade Lloyd?, by 1998
2393. Gorilla Gardens 5.10d *, 1998, Al Swanson?, Steve Gerberding?, Cade Lloyd?, by 1998
2394. Empire 5.13a **, 1995, Al Swanson?, Steve Gerberding?, Cade Lloyd?, by 1995
2398. Giblet 5.10c *, 1998, Al Swanson?, Steve Gerberding?, Cade Lloyd?, by 1998
2399. Velvet Elvis 5.12a *, 1998, Al Swanson?, Steve Gerberding?, Cade Lloyd?, by 1998
2568. Alamo 5.11a R *, 1986, Al Swanson, Ken Yager, Dave Schultz, Grant Hiskes, 1986
2576. Dancing in the Dark 5.11c *, 1986, Scott Cosgrove, Al Swanson, 1986
> and I'm sure you're burning klaus as well *
No doubt. I mentioned something to that effect in my first post on this thread (although I mentioned Sean Jones and Melissa instead). Actually klaus has a lot of routes in the guidebooks already, so many may be missing, but he did not get completely missed.
P.S. Eric Gabel's count on the list is also low, but it's partly because he has active projects in certain areas, so several of his climbs do not appear yet in the public version of the list.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Michael,
> I still would like to find a good FA list for Tuolumne and Hetchy.
I have a 1990 vintage Tuolumne route list w/ 750 routes, but haven't added FA info to it yet.
I have a Hetch Hetchy FA list, but it's not public. But many of the routes made it into the list in Doug Robinson's article in Climbing.
> Clint, thanks for the use of your online information.
Thanks for having fun with it. It was really Ed who created it, and shared it in the first place. I just did a little reordering and added some post-guidebook climbs.
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WBraun
climber
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Everyone's so worried about how many routes they've done and securing a so called spot for their so called immortality.
You may even be reborn in your next life repeating a route you've done as a first ascent in this life and wondering who that first ascensionist was.
deja vu ......
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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> Earliest
> El Capitan Gully FA: J.L. Staats, (partner Charles Bailey died in a fall near the top), 1905
Not the earliest. Hint: download the XLS file, click on one of the cells in the Year column, and click on the sort button.
Werner,
I agree the totals are a bit of a misrepresentation of climbing. I like the climbing part of it, but I guess if I'm sitting at a PC and can't climb, I might look at it. But I did make fun of Sean Jones' route total mentioned in Doug Robinson's article (on that long thread here). I don't know if that total was really something Sean was into, since Doug wrote the article and Sean did not.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Werner,
You are too funny. So true. Who's counting, God?
Ken
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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To further illustrate Al's point, here's a graph from another thread:
It suggests to me at least that there is probably a lot of missing stuff after 1994. But there may have also been a peak of new route activity with the "Tucker Tech, et al, late-1980s" routes.
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martygarrison
Trad climber
The Great North these days......
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Not a fa, but I put those two quarter inch bolts at the top of the first pitch of sunnyside bench jam crack in 72. Does this count?
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there zombi... say, thanks very much for the share, it was fun to see my brothers name there, me being new at learning all this stuff...
say, if you had NOT shared, why, i would not have known that my brother mark had done 40 FA routes, in the first place...
it is interesting to know, history wise and as to the interest of learning more about each man, and climber, as you learn these things (in this case, for me knowing more about my brother)...
this give me a bit more understanding to my brother, and his passion, his search for adventure, and his curiosity and his tries at tackling new things and his tenacity...
EVEN as it does for all those that know the other climbers and learn what they TOO have done... (hopefully to it gets folks to want to try their own hand at new adventures, too) ... :)
ps:
say, it was very fun to see merry's name and that she had done one too.... we learn so much about folks here on supertopo...
thanks so very much for the share....
*sure hope that when mark is not so busy, that he can share all this stuff with me, being that i was in texas, and never got to share in the stories of adventure...
**oh my... say, sure hope i have perhaps 40 "quotes" or "insights" from my novels that are kind of like "fa"s to be of help to someone, so that my life may give a worthy trail to those that come after me, sometime, down the ol' trail of life....
edit:
here's a salute to all those climbers... and to all the folks that are outthere rescueing climbers, as well, so that their families can continue to love and enjoy them.... :)
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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Apr 30, 2009 - 12:03pm PT
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kurt smith- 54 between valley and meadows.
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Apr 30, 2009 - 12:19pm PT
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well, i did at least 6 fa's in the valley, including 2 el cap routes, but liked the kid, most my new activity was in the meadows(28 new routes on medlicott alone). shipoopoi
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