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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 17, 2009 - 01:26pm PT
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Yea, after ten years of being lazy and eight different partners I finally finished one of my lines to the top(kinda) on Parkline Sunday. Dangling Chads 5.11b/c or 5.10aC2. Kinda cool up there on kinda top.
Rack is a set of cams 00C3 to #3C4 and stoppers with extra in the smaller range. 60m rope
Rap the route with 2 ropes or rap Home World, between Flying in the Mountains and Dangling Chads, with 1 60
Been seeing more people down there these days, mostly on Stone Quest.
Jeff
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Mar 17, 2009 - 01:29pm PT
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Congratulations!!
Nice photo too.
Ten Years in the making...You could've called it Ten Years After.
Sometimes slow cooked is best anyway.
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scooter
climber
fist clamp
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Mar 17, 2009 - 01:29pm PT
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Nice job! Is that the route you were working on with D.H. a few years back?
Patrick
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Flanders!
Trad climber
June Lake, CA
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Mar 17, 2009 - 01:38pm PT
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Good job Jeff, looks like a nice line. Are you amiable to guiding some old dads up your route? Can't wait for the Valley season to begin.
All the best to you and Mony
Doug
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Mar 17, 2009 - 01:45pm PT
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kewl new stuff to go check out.
Couldn't thank Ron S enough for turning me onto Stone Quest that day we forget the rack. Good line.
Earlier that morning...
"Dude, what do mean 'where is the rack?' very funny, hahahah, ok, now where's the rack?"
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Mar 17, 2009 - 01:46pm PT
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Congratulations Tork.
Ten years is nuthin'.
I've been staring at that wall for 50, and never even walked up there. Now you're igniting my dreams.
Good on ya.
'nother Doug
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 17, 2009 - 03:24pm PT
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Dingus, I wish (not really) that were the case, you know how it is.
Yah Patrick, Dave and I did the first pitch and started the second. The second ended up being harder than we thought it would be plus we needed more than one hook, so we went down with plans to return. Dave was kinda busy so I ended going back with Ron Skelton a bit later.
Reminds me of a story.
The first time Ron got on it, we were just there climbing other stuff. At the end of the day we decided to do the first pitch of the route I started with Dave. Ron liked the look of the second pitch so he asked to lead up to our high point. I was curious to know how hard he thought the pitch was so far, so I agree. Ron works his way up this tips(for normal people) corner without to much fuss. I don't know how he does it, he's got big hands. Then the crack gets really thin, then ends all together. This was my high point where I stood on a knife blade leaned way right and drilled a bolt.Ron gets to the bolt and checks out the next few thin face moves that cross the bolt to the right. I'm thinking he will climb past a couple of feet then come back and lower back down. But Noooooooooooooooooooooo, he keeps climbing. We have no bolt kit and there is no carck to be seen for about 35- 40 feet. He traverses right, my hands start sweating. He continues right and gets to a rest stance where if we had a bolt kit a sane person would start drilling. But, as Ron has no drill he can't. He's 25+ feet out, the moves to that point were 5.11 so reversing them would be tough and scary and a fall would be long and slam him hard into the corner. I start feeling a little sick not knowing what he's going to do. The last thing I wanted was for Ron, who at the time must have been about 60, to get hurt. My hands could barely grip the rope I was sweating it so bad. Rons not even phased. He decides to keep climbing. He continues up and right where he finds a thin crack not visable from below. He wiggles in a nut and clips his rope in. Thank God! I relax. He then tells me the nut is crap. Oh shit! Back to sweating.I need to chalk up at this point. Ron, still showing no sign of remorse, moves on. A few feet higher he get a TCU which he says is so-so. Well at least he has two peices I think to myself. He continues on about five feet above the cam and contomplates the next moves. It's about another six or seven feet to a visable crack. He fiddles around a bit then decides not to risk the fall on his questionable pro. He climbs back down to the so-so cam. I'm not sure what he will do, lower off the cam and nut? He then removes the cam steps down to the crap nut and says take. Take? What? Take? But the nut? You said the nut was crap? Oh sh#t, that nut pulls it's over dude.Ron, unphased, "lower me".
To be continued
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Anastasia
climber
Not here
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Mar 17, 2009 - 03:26pm PT
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Thanks for making it happen! What will you name it?
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nick farley
climber
bishop
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Mar 17, 2009 - 03:44pm PT
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Way to go Jeff! You da man.
I'm going to have to come back to Cali just to have a look. See you in the fall.
Cheers,
Nick
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troutboy
Trad climber
Newark, DE
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Mar 17, 2009 - 03:45pm PT
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Thanks for making it happen! What will you name it?
I'm gonna go out on a limb and guess "Dangling Chads" :-)
TS
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nutjob
Stoked OW climber
San Jose, CA
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Mar 17, 2009 - 04:21pm PT
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Jeebus, that got me all sweaty-mitted just reading it!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Mar 17, 2009 - 08:29pm PT
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dang Tork great read on Ron's story...
what happened then? :)
Ron the face climbing meister strikes again!
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 17, 2009 - 11:44pm PT
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Thanks all, I was psyched to get er done. It's a fun route especially this time of year.
Doug N., would love to get up there with you. Who's the old guys you want me to guide?
Nick, great to hear from you! Hope to see you in the fall.
Well Munge,there's not a lot left to tell, the crap nut obviously held as Ron is still alive, kicking, and sending hard. But the whole time lowering him, I kept envisioning it popping and our old friend flying past me. After returning to the ground, Ron was psyched to come back another day with a bolt kit and finish the pitch. So we make a plan to return.
Not sure how much time goes by but we eventually meet up on some planned morning in the turnout at the start of the approach. We get packed up and start heading up the gully. After hiking up a hundred feet or so, I remember we needed hooks. I tell Ron I forgot to put em in my pack but I can run back to my car and grab em. Well as I'm sure you can guess, if you know Ron, he says "naw, I won't need em, I'm gonna get to such in such spot where I'll be able to slap in a bolt. Then continue across the traverse and put another one in at such n such stance." "Are you sure?" I ask. "Oh Yea." We continue to the start and I lead the first pitch and bring Ron up. Ron then fires back up the tips corner, I still don't know how, but this time ready to drill. He clips my bolt, styles the crux moves to the right, and gets to said such n such spot where he's gonna drill a bolt. Guess what? Yep, such n such spot isn't cutting it for a drilling stance and he needs a hook which again we don't have. Here we go again,sweat sweat. Ron has to do the entire traverse without a bolt again. Luckily, one can camp at the stance at the end of the traverse and he was able to get one in and then finish up the pitch.
Then it was my turn to follow the pitch and while doing so, totally AMAZED that Ron not only lead that traverse without a bolt, he did it twice. Oh, and we added two more bolts to the pitch on our way down and I always keep a hook in my bolt kit.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 18, 2009 - 12:18am PT
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I added homeworld to the photo. You can get off all three of these routes by rapping Homeworld with one 60m rope.
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Mar 18, 2009 - 12:36am PT
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Tork,
Thanks for posting the topo and telling us the story. Wish I could climb 5.11, I'd check it out.
Zander
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 18, 2009 - 12:51am PT
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Zander, you can aid the crux pitch no prob, but you need to do two hook moves to the second bolt, then tension across, Then it's easy aid through the rest of the pitch. The fourth pitch is 10a.
Jeff
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Mar 18, 2009 - 02:16am PT
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great finish to the story!!!
and awfully generous to post that topo, thx!
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Mar 18, 2009 - 03:45am PT
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hey there tork... say, wow, i sure aint a rock climber, but i really CAN appreciate your hard work and tenacity to tackle your chore and reach your goal!...
i just love big projects and way they make you feel good when done doing a good hard job... :)
congrats... and so much more...
say, i really love the picture and the way the route is highligted so... it looks really speical that way, kind of like christmas lights, but all orange...
very good job, even though, haha, i wouldn't know what i'm talking about, as to what MADE it such a good job... :)
(though care and foresight and caution, all would come into play, i would think)...
but you know... one just has these gut feeling about stuff... and i am so very happy for your goal being met...
god bless... and thanks for sharing you "baby" here with all that will really love it...
:)
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Mar 18, 2009 - 04:58am PT
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Nice overlay, Jeff! I like the colored dots idea, where you can still see the crack line between the dots.
I may have some slightly better photos. Alexander Cooper took these on a rainy recon day, back in February 2004. I have some conventional topos which I have traced from the photos, too, although I have not scanned them yet.
Here is a brighter and larger photo, in 2 segments to work around the photobucket limit of 800 x 600 (I can send you the larger original if you'd like):
On supertopo, there is a slight gap between the segments.
On my own web page, I can put segments together with no gap, by using some table codes. Here is an example (Sawtooths, ID trail map, 3 segments):
http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/eperch/gmap2.htm
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