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nutjob
Stoked OW climber
San Jose, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 30, 2008 - 07:35pm PT
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One might think that a climbing destination with a single short pitch can hardly yield a decent workout. Said one would not have visited Scuffy's Redwood Terror.
We begin with a lesson from the host and master:
Holding the La Sportiva Enduros, tools of choice for the evening:
And move on to the demonstration in the intimate setting:
He makes it look easy. It is not easy. I heard murmurings of "harder than Cream." I wouldn't know because the only cream I found was the skin of my ankles, knees, and hands mashed to a pulp in a Herculean effort to keep from spitting out. And I am not yet worthy: I cheated. I pulled on the toggle bolts way inside... let's just pretend they were tube chocks I set and it's fair game? I guess there's no penalty if the ref didn't see it.
Here's Rob proving that Gaston is not the move of choice, and Gary with the helpful beta pointing which way to go:
Then there's Gary, with an unfair advantage of having his own hideous crack machine:
Getting that knee up high past the first roof is a key:
Oh, sweet pain and suffering!
But he does that hand-stack like a pro:
And wrastle's past that second roof and into the switching-sides maneuver:
Is that a foot-knee stack? Oh, the insanity!
Well, it worked for him:
Fortunately, there were no pictures of my grimacing. I applied Brute Force for the first panel, and was dead after clearing the first roof. Had a good no-hands rest off a thigh-torque to recover, and touched the glorious top after a few questionable moves that spoiled the OW purity. But it was a much better showing than my trip earlier in the year where I couldn't clear the first roof.
I did spent about 10 minutes with my head between my legs trying not to vomit when I got down. I asked which bushes were OK to spew in. I think I might be allowed back some day because I managed to hold it in. But it was close. I was worked. One lap was enough for me. Gary and Scuffy eat that stuff up, and did a few laps each. I guess it's good to have some heroes to look up to.
Epilogue:
It is day 20 since the encounter, and my hand scab that was the size of a nickel is healing nicely. It went through several rounds of infection and misguided soakings/rippings, but yesterday the scab finally brushed off to reveal pink raw skin beneath, and no puss to speak of. Just in time to rough it up tonight.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Dec 30, 2008 - 07:42pm PT
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hey there nutjob... oh my........... say, who would have ever thought...
say, thanks for the great share and with pics, makes it "tops"... otherwise, someone like me, would not have had a clue, what was going on...
great share, and lots of fun, too... say, even interesting--as, imaginative...
:)
*say, edit: why did your pics here, download so fast for me... ? many other pics take too long, and you had a lot of them here, too... hmmm, wonder why... ?
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Dec 30, 2008 - 07:46pm PT
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hey there nutjob... say, i just thought of this... the ol' neighbors must wonder what you guys are up to... such, as perhaps practicing to "burgle" a high-rise, or something... man, oh, man....
sure hope they know that you guys are "greatoutdoorsmans" of the climbing-rocks-type-sort... when rocks are about, that is...
:)
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Dec 30, 2008 - 07:48pm PT
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see you tonight!
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Dec 30, 2008 - 07:56pm PT
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The best blow by blow of the scuffinator, yet! Have fun tonight you crazy kids!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Dec 30, 2008 - 08:19pm PT
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film at 11
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Dec 30, 2008 - 08:26pm PT
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The horror, the horror :)
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Dec 30, 2008 - 08:31pm PT
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There's some strange things a foot, down to the Sunol clocktower...
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divad
Trad climber
wmass
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Dec 30, 2008 - 09:40pm PT
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Looks like cruel and unusual punishment.
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Captain...or Skully
Trad climber
North of the Owyhees
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Dec 30, 2008 - 09:44pm PT
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looks like some wide fetish material, fo sho......
Trainin' fer glory?
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scuffy b
climber
On the dock in the dark
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Dec 31, 2008 - 11:38am PT
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Think of it like this, Dingus.
There's a buttress (sheathed Redwood) with a detached flake
(the bookshelves) which forms a corner.
I found a great title the other day:
The Map That Changed the World
Wm Smith develops the 1st geologic map,working on it alone
for 20 years.
Cheers
sm
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Dec 31, 2008 - 12:16pm PT
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Nutjob's post makes it seen like scuffy's OW is pretty hard. Well, don't believe it. It's way harder than that!
Z
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Dec 31, 2008 - 01:23pm PT
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Looks like fun, but different... ;-)
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Dr. Rock
Ice climber
http://tinyurl.com/4oa5br
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Dec 31, 2008 - 01:28pm PT
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I kinda don't get it.
somebody has some 'splainin' to do.
that was my place man.
so what if i was late a couple of times.
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Crimpergirl
Social climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Dec 31, 2008 - 01:47pm PT
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I feel sick.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Dec 31, 2008 - 02:00pm PT
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Yeah, fun And different...
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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hahahaha
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DJS
Trad climber
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Mar 19, 2009 - 08:43pm PT
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Bump
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DJS
Trad climber
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Mar 19, 2009 - 08:43pm PT
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Bump
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