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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 7, 2008 - 01:24pm PT
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I have said often that Kyle was the greatest desert climber of them all. He would onsight 5.12 on FAs, and his boldness on aid was legendary.
I last saw Kyle on his 50th birthday a half year ago. The Crohn's disease that has been attacking him for decades has reduced him to a shadow.
It didn't surprise me that he failed to respond to my messages. He has become very withdrawn.
I just got word that his incremental amputations (he had lost 3 toes when I saw him) have become much worse.
He has now lost the whole leg.
He is in SLC at Avalon Rehab.
The good news is that after being on a feeding tube for a while he gained 20 lbs despite the loss of his leg.
Also, he now has a very high quality wheelchair.
Perhaps some of his friends and old acquaintances will look in on him.
HINT: don't say "How are you doing?" He hates that. Just wish him well and ask him if he wants anything (likely not), and keep it short.
Anybody have some photos of him?
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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
Redmond, OR
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That is sobering and heartbreaking, Ron. I've never met Klyle, but is he well enough to post up among us here(?), as I know he would be welcome.
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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I'm really sad to hear this. His disease has caused him suffering as long as I have known him, but he was always upbeat regardless. The last time I saw him, perhaps 10 years ago, he was in good shape. This news is hard to hear.
Kyle's climbs are legendary, but he's been a great gear designer as well, helping a lot of companies get started, including the A5 Software division. His pack designs were especially stellar.
Sadly, I have no photos of Kyle. We climbed the Fang in Zion together, but must not have had a camera.
I wish him well.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 7, 2008 - 08:08pm PT
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Bruno, he hasn't been online for years.
Like I said, withdrawn.
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Where are YOU from?
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Wow, Kyle is a Man of the Sand, for sure.....
Always wanted to talk to him.
I hope for the best.
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wayne w
Trad climber
the nw
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Really sad to hear that Kyle is suffering, and choosing to be alone at a time when he could really use the support of his friends.
He once lent Mike O Donnell and I some cams for an ascent of Primrose Dihedrals (over 14 years ago) that made the climb so much easier.
I remember that he treasured his collection of Grateful Dead bootlegs. Time to repay his kindness with some cd's for Christmas. Maybe others here who were lucky enough to brush shoulders with him can do likewise.
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MVM
Trad climber
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Ron,
Sorry to hear about your friend. I only know Kyle's name from guidebooks, etc., but the routes are legendary. I think your post answered a question of mine regarding the name of the Crohn's Wall outside of Moab. Anyhow: Having had a pretty severe case of Crohn's Colitis myself for the last 26 years (multiple colon amputations, etc.) I can sympathize. There may be hope, however in the form of a biological agent called Remicade (aka Infliximab, aka Anti-Tumor Necrosis Factor Alpha). It has me in complete remission for the first time ever and I have been able to get off of all other immunosuppressants. The drug maker (Centocor) may have a program if insurance is an issue. Just thought that I would lob this one out there
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Yeah, Kyle was a great guy to have in Boulder when he was living there 20+ years ago. If I remember correctly, he was the designer and force behind the first useable "hand jammies" crack climbing gloves, but I think he told me that he lost the original design specs and was never able to re-create the original product.
Bruce
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 7, 2008 - 10:35pm PT
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Sorry.
A Remicade infusion nearly killed Kyle 6 years ago.
It doesn't work for him.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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I don't think I've ever met Mr Copeland, but I've climbed with a bunch of his Droogs, and any of us who've spent more than a certain amount of time climbing or existing on the Colorado plateau know of him, and owe something to him for various routes and making the whole thing happen.
Thank you, and all the best vibes to you, Kyle!
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Shiite- never met Kyle but he was a force BITD. Anything we can do?
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Bruce Perschbacher
climber
Carbonale,Ill. 62901.
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Hello, Never had the pleasure of meeting Kyle, but wish him all the best in a difficult situation. Cheers, Bruce.
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Have not seen Kyle for several years. He was very kind when Bill Myers, his wife (girlfriend at that time) and myself were trying to climb Standing Rock in the late 1980s; we crashed at his place, set off, returned after being arrested (for climbing without a permit, BITD) and thrown out of the Park, crashed again at his place after arriving at some crazy hour, got up horribly early for the return bout. He was happy to see us, patient with our crazy schedule, and regaled us with great stories. Though even then, he was getting more into playing his guitar and working on his beautiful stonework projects than climbing.
This slide is from Eric Bjornstad's collection. I don't know who took it. Kyle Copeland, Eric somebody(?), Warren (unmistakable!) and Eric.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 7, 2008 - 11:45pm PT
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Wow!
What a great pic!
Warren never told me he went out to Escalante.
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bfb
climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Maybe 16 years ago, as I was taking a break from Boulder and a failed relationship, I went to Moab on a solo mountain biking trip, tossing my harness and a bit of gear in the van "just in case". As I was wrapping up the Slickrock trail, some folks I met on the ride invited me to a climbing slideshow over at Kyle's place. I had never met him before, but got to chatting, mentioning that I would love to get a bit of climbing in if possible. It turned out that he and his friend Daryl (who since moved up to AK to be climbing ranger in Talkeetna) had scoped out a first ascent line on Chimney Rock in Dead Horse Point SP, and were planning to head out early the next morning. So, without really knowing me at all, Kyle invited me along on what turned out to be one of the most memorable climbing experiences of my life... I've lost touch with him over the years but have always felt incredibly thankful to be part of that experience.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 7, 2008 - 11:55pm PT
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He told me about that one bfb, give me an email shout.
Fact is; the Dead Horse Point that "Dream of Dead Horses" is on is not the REAL dead horse point. The real point where the horses died was the point with Chimney Rock.
They moved the state park one "point" over, and built a replica mock up fence because the view was marred by both Chimney Rock and the potash evaporation ponds.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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i named my firstborn son after kyle copeland. true fact. never met the man, but he inspired me.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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I really appreciate these kinds of threads, where people pay tribute rather than contend. We are all, in a sense, one big family, but petty rivalries and immaturities tear us apart at times. When it comes down to it, though, and life hangs in the balance, we draw again the right perspective and realize how important we are/or should be to one another. I think I met Kyle in Boulder, but we didn't know each other well. I think it was Charlie Fowler who helped me become acquainted with Kyle. The name became one of those mysterious names that evoked respect.
Pat
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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I am so sad;...Kyle was my bro, my hero, and my mentor for desert climbing. He's one of the most awesome climbers and human beings I know, and have ever met. Kyle was one of the first climbers to move to Moab, Utah, just to climb, live, and live the life. Those who know Kyle are way richer from having him as a friend. Here is Kyle on the excellent Class Act (5.11 power lieback) north of town.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Kyle wanted to take up out to a new climb he had done up Kane Springs, and he wanted to share with us;.....At Kyle's house, he grabbed his pack, threw in some climbing gear and then tossed his lunch on top of the gear;.....some chocolate donuts (unwrapped and not in a package) and a pack of camel non-filters.....(this cracked me up...)....He lead us up the steep walled swampy canyon, and took us to this crack;....it was awesome, and a beautiful perfect day. The Kind 5.10 (another Copeland masterpiece).
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