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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 18, 2005 - 09:11am PT
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I've heard that years ago Rick Accamazo did a traverse of Taquitz. Any details? Hair-raising/razing stories?
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Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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May 18, 2005 - 09:53am PT
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It's a piece of cake. I did it last year. Up the White Maiden, over the top and signed the register and down the North Gully. From the top of the Maiden, it is hands in pocket walking. It's not exactly the Palisade Crest!
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Kevin Graves
Trad climber
Lake Arrowhead, CA
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May 18, 2005 - 10:36am PT
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Whatever happened to Rick Accomazo? I hear of Rob Muir and others from that time but never Rick. He taught me to climb in 1976 and lucky me even introduced me on my first day to Tom Frost. Ironically, on my son's first day of climbing in Yosemite (24 years later); I introduced him to Tom Frost.
Did Rick become a lawyer?
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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May 19, 2005 - 11:18am PT
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Rick Accomazzo graduated from Law School in California and moved to Boulder, Colorado where he has been living and raising a family ever since. He is successful attorney, still climbs some and an all around great person.
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John Vawter
Social climber
San Diego
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May 19, 2005 - 12:21pm PT
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Never popular, I think because there is no clearly superior route. I heard the crux was climbing down into the Open Book (left to right), especially for the second. Probably required leaving a piece above and back belaying the second. But now there are bolted routes on the left "leaf" of the Book. So maybe it could be downclimbed without rope shenanigans.
Here's another route you won't find in the guidebook.
Anomelet 5.9
Climb El Grandote to end of third pitch. (4) Traverse up and right and belay below 5.6/7 overhang on Northeast Face. (5) 10 to 15 below overhang, traverse up and right over overlapping slabs (R, lichen encrusted) past big yellow "tooth" and into big gully that East Lark comes up through. (6) Traverse up and right over steep, featured, fun orange and brown face to next big gully. (7) Traverse up and right to small roof with yellow and red lichen, and loose block in wide crack. Up and right to flake that takes small cams. Undercling right (crux) then up to base of long right-facing dihedral. Lieback halfway up and belay. (8, 9) Continue straight up for 2 pitches, or continue traversing right another pitch (awkward) to the Whodunit overhang.
I suppose I could just say "From the overhang on Northeast Face, traverse up and right for five pitches to the overhang on Whodunit."
JV
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snowey
Trad climber
San Diego
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Apr 30, 2008 - 02:09pm PT
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Does anyone have any more info on the girdle traverse of tahquitz?
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Marty,
Rob Muir and I completed a traverse of Tahquitz that we called “New Directions,” in May of 1975. I have the route marked into my ancient Wilts Guide and I’ll try to scan and post it when I get a chance. Most of it was not very hard, since we were concentrating on just finding a connecting line. What it lacks in difficulty, though is made up in length. I forget how many pitches it was, but there were many.
The best part was getting to the Edge and then, across the South Face. I remember an improbable, downward traverse from the Edge into the Open Book, and this was probably the best climbing. We rated this part 5.10(d), if I recall correctly.
Kevin,
Good to make contact again, although I’m having trouble remembering the circumstances.At that time, Rob Muir and I had started a guide service we called “Flight Systems Mountaineering." You must have been one of our few customers. Give me more details and I’ll probably be able to remember. Glad to hear that you stuck with climbing after the initial instruction!
Randy,
Thanks for the kind words.
Rick
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Sep 21, 2008 - 03:12pm PT
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Time flies.
Finally got around to posting the line of
"New Directions", the Tahquitz traverse Rob Muir and I did in 1975. This is from my orange Wilts guidebook.
Still plenty of new traverse lines left!
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Sep 21, 2008 - 06:51pm PT
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Sounds epic and I remember Ricky talking about it after he and Rob bagged the first. I'd imagine there are various ways to go and other options are there for the picking.
Go for it.
JL
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dolomite_said
Gym climber
) ) ) ) ) ) ) ) . . . Buffering
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Sep 22, 2008 - 03:37am PT
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B U M P . . .
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dogtown
climber
Where I once was,I think?
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Sep 22, 2008 - 03:43am PT
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Hey, Rick
How many pitches? A bunch Eh?
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Loomis
climber
(>_
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Sep 22, 2008 - 03:57am PT
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Isn't that the traverse Mari, Mike, Dean(Bullwinkle) and Jessica were soloing when I was I wee lad?
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dolomite_said
Gym climber
) ) ) ) ) ) ) ) . . . Buffering
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Sep 23, 2008 - 03:19am PT
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bump
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Dr. Rock
Ice climber
http://tinyurl.com/4oa5br
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Sep 23, 2008 - 04:55am PT
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Oh cool, Gary Valle is also an expert kayaker, I see him every year at the Moke Races.
Kind of Hollywood, but he country too.
Here is his multifaceted site, or one pf them at least:
http://www.sierraphotography.com/
Thanks Murph!
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rmuir
Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Sep 23, 2008 - 09:24pm PT
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Sigh. Like you, Rick, I remember taking a few notes on our farce called "New Directions"... Somewhere. (It's not in old guidebook, can't find it in any of my notebooks, can't find it in any of my mags.) You got more details that I do!
I seem to recall that we wrote it up in the middle of an area report for Mountain, but that too escapes my feeble eye.
We broke the route into two days, so that we could descend for grub at the pub and a good night's sleep. Back on it near the Trough, the Open Book section was pretty cool (and surprisingly well protected—what with a top-rope for the leader, and a top-rope for the second using a back belay.) And the South Face stuff was pretty cool, too.
Somewhere around 30 or 32 pitches, wasn't it? BITD of 50m cords.
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crøtch
climber
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Sep 24, 2008 - 09:51pm PT
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bump
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