New York Times piece on Chongo

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jms

climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 29, 2008 - 04:41pm PT
I'm an editor at The New York Times, and I just wanted to flag everyone on an ambitious piece we just posted on our web site on Chongo, a character who I'm sure is very familiar to most of you.

The reporter, Michael Brick, spent months on the piece, and I think the result is dynamite. I hope you agree. (Either way, we'd love your feedback.)

Anyway, you can see the piece at nytimes.com/sports. It'll also be displayed prominently in Tuesday's edition of the print publication.

(If this post runs afoul of the forum's etiquette, I apologize in advance and will not do this sort of thing again. I just thought the climbing community would appreciate a heads-up on this.)

Jason Stallman
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Sep 29, 2008 - 04:51pm PT
A link, would be helpful here....
Bullwinkle

Boulder climber
Sep 29, 2008 - 04:52pm PT
Chongo is the man, the Monkeys and the Valley miss the "GreatMan" DF
knieveltech

Social climber
Raleigh NC
Sep 29, 2008 - 04:53pm PT
fixed:

[url]http://www.nytimes.com/2008/09/30/sports/othersports/30chongo.html?_r=1&ref=sports&oref=slogin[/url]
Prod

Big Wall climber
A place w/o Avitars apparently
Sep 29, 2008 - 04:53pm PT
http://www.nytimes.com/sports/
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Sep 29, 2008 - 04:57pm PT
http://www.nytimes.com/slideshow/2008/09/29/sports/0930-CHONGO_index.html
klk

Trad climber
cali
Sep 29, 2008 - 05:11pm PT
It's wonderful to see the Times publishing a piece like this in the Sports section. It would be great if an American paper could begin to challenge the Guardian's coverage of the climbing world.

I thought this was a good introduction to Chongo, especially for non-climbers.

One minor point: I would have loved a bit more context, perhaps an explanation that Chongo's lifestyle and social niche had a long history. The Germans referred to the unemployed alpinists of the 1920s as Bergvagabunden. And Chongo's 'homelessness" was not far from the norm for serious climbers in the US in the 1950s-1980s.

I hope the Times makes climbing a regular part of its coverage, whether in sports or other sections.

shutupandclimb

climber
Palm Desert Ca.
Sep 29, 2008 - 05:15pm PT
Thanks for the link.

Chongo's cool...Met him a time or too.
GDavis

Trad climber
Sep 29, 2008 - 05:19pm PT
sweet!
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Sep 29, 2008 - 05:20pm PT
I love the tag line "The Sky is His Roof."

I'll read the article when I have a few...
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
Otto, NC
Sep 29, 2008 - 05:21pm PT
"I hope the Times makes climbing a regular part of its coverage, whether in sports or other sections."

I hope not.
Prod

Big Wall climber
A place w/o Avitars apparently
Sep 29, 2008 - 05:22pm PT
Good read.

Prod.
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
Sep 29, 2008 - 05:31pm PT
Thanks for the link.

I talked to Chongo a few times. Well, mostly he talked to me about pulleys and systems I could use that could "haul the earth."

I saw his encampment on and beneath Sea of Dreams before I had ever heard of him. I thought it looked like a homeless encampment.
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Sep 29, 2008 - 05:43pm PT
It's a good piece. Often when the media covers climbing it's so widely inaccurate that we don't recognize the kernel of truth in it. This seemed as fair as it gets.

Chongo may have his own issues but he has inspired a lot of people and now it looks like he's in a position to inspire the homeless and those who interact with them. That's proud.

Peace

Karl
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Sep 29, 2008 - 05:48pm PT
Hooray for Chongo!!!!
corniss chopper

Mountain climber
san jose, ca
Sep 29, 2008 - 05:56pm PT
More than 25yrs ago 'Chuck Tucker -climber extraordinaire!'
introduced himself when he happened by. I and a friend; Bob (a beginning climber) were leaving the old Yosemite Falls parking lot to do Munginella. Bob wanted
to learn how to lead. Within minutes Chuck had us laughing
so we invited him to join us and share his climbing wisdom.

Anyway Bob was so slow on the 2nd pitch that I had time to rap,
go to the store for snacks, return, and prussick up. All the
while Chuck, belaying, and Bob, still at the crux move, talked about everything under the sun.

Later at the top, the sun set while the moon rose. The idea
of not racing up and down such a beautiful place stuck. Chuck
was in his element.

elcap-pics

climber
Crestline CA
Sep 29, 2008 - 07:19pm PT
I didn't agree with chongo going into federal court and having his friends make the preposterous lies they tried to peddle off on the court. In the end he got what he earned, as it was obvious to everyone that he did indeed live in Yosemite illegially for many years. The article has him admitting that he lived there and thus all his friends who lied for him in court were exposed as liers in court. The whole episode left a bad taste in the authorities mouths that came down on others in the climbing community. Climbers words were not taken as truthful after that... it sort of ruined our collective reputations. However that said... I have always considered him a friend and spent many a day hanging out with him and having discussions about everything. He has a good heart and I value his friendship. People don't always agree with each other but that should not devalue their contributions and friendships.
I thought the article was well done and fair to both sides of the situation. Best of luck to you chongo!!
Tom Evans
malabarista

Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
Sep 29, 2008 - 07:23pm PT
Enjoyed the article and pics. I've hung with the man on a few occasions and it seems like he was represented fairly. I miss seeing him in Yosemite. To me he was part of the magic, part of the circus of fun. I wish him well wherever he is.
nick d

Trad climber
nm
Sep 29, 2008 - 09:28pm PT
Thanks NYT! It is very nice to see a piece about climbing that isn't "Stallonized"

Not sure I see Chongo as the father of big-wall climbing though.
WBraun

climber
Sep 29, 2008 - 09:36pm PT
Chongo as the father of big-wall climbing.

Bwahahahaha, ..... yeah right, .... hahaha

This article is definitely a romanticism of sorts. hahaha
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