Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 13 of total 13 in this topic |
Trad
Trad climber
Northern California
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 8, 2008 - 01:21am PT
|
Aaron and I checked out Third Stone from the Sun last week. Admittedly, we only did the first pitch but here it is for FWIW.
This is sort of a continuation of the Clonedike thread
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=667946
but since it's a different route I decided to start a new topic.
Anyway, the route is on West Wall:
It was an interesting lead because of (a) the choss and occasional Ginsu Death Flakes, and (b) we had only one 70-m rope and weren't sure if/where the belay was. I brought some bail gear just in case.
Here's another view, looking up from the base.
The first pitch is actually pretty fun and not too hard but it feels harder because there IS some choss and loose stuff, mostly on the lower section. In the end it wasn't a problem, though.
Just before getting to the roof/flare part I peered around the arête to the left and spotted a piton and bolt above me, which I assume is Ozzie (.10a). But I went the other way and once I traversed to the right underneath the flaring section I saw some slings about 20 feet higher, which was a relief.
After a few more interesting moves up a crack and dikes I got to the belay, where I found some webbing slung around the top of a small pillar. I don't know how fast webbing ages but it looked like it pre-dates this millennium.
From there I had a nice view of the next pitch which looks fun up to the roof, which looks hard. Maybe someday...
Here's a sequence of Aaron coming up the first pitch.
After that it was time to rap, which (fortunately) was possible with our one 70 m rope.
We wondered about the safety of the rap webbing after Aaron discovered he could rip it WITH HIS BARE HANDS.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rE3LuStU0AM
We chose to rap instead off the bail-cordelette & biner I was glad to have brought along. We also left the 3-piece cam anchor (temporarily) as backup because I wanted to try the pitch again on TR. It was even more fun on top rope.
The pitch having thus been explored we pulled the rope, which landed conveniently across one of the Ginsu Death Flakes.
I've gotta say, there are some fun routes over on West Wall. I just wish they'd get more activity and then there wouldn't be so much choss!
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
|
|
That cool looking roof is only .10c?
|
|
Salamanizer
Trad climber
Vacaville Ca,
|
|
Jaybro, I'd totally be down to give it a go with ya. The chockstones make it easier, but it's still a bit sandbagged for .10c me thinks.
Good send Trad.... and friends.
|
|
Trad
Trad climber
Northern California
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 9, 2008 - 12:54am PT
|
Wow, I posted this less than 24 hours ago and it's already buried on the fourth page.
I should've claimed we climbed Vanishing Point and said it felt soft for 10b. Then at least people would've given me crap for climbing the wrong route! Heh.
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
bump
|
|
the Fet
Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
|
|
A TR with pictures....
bump.
|
|
klk
Trad climber
cali
|
|
bump for tr. altho that climb looks genuinely awful.
|
|
Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
|
|
3rd Stone, another one that got away.
There's still some time left...
|
|
nutjob
Stoked OW climber
San Jose, CA
|
|
That roof crack looks like a good excuse to head back to Lover's Leap. I need a good whupping.
|
|
Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
|
|
|
Oct 12, 2010 - 10:02pm PT
|
Happy to report, the Ginsu Death Flake in picture above is now gone. And so too is the one that was higher up - also threatening. Kudos to whomever trundled it as it was pretty scary. Especially for your beloved belayer. It's a really clean and AWESOME first pitch now.
P.S. If you climb all the way to the roof, you can gain an anchor there which will enable you to gain the chain anchor on Vanishing Point. Great for top rope workouts.
|
|
MaxJ
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
|
|
|
Oct 13, 2010 - 08:54am PT
|
Nice Tom, I've never seen anybody do that pitch. I always have just done the first pitch of Vanishing Point and traversed into 3rd Stone from the Sun. The roof is pretty hard!
|
|
Ed H
Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
|
|
Leap West Wall bump
|
|
Aerili
climber
SLC, Utah
|
|
Did this a few years ago with caughtinside. Fun - and we found it in similar condition as I recall.
|
|
| Messages 1 - 13 of total 13 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!