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John Morton
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 22, 2005 - 03:29pm PT
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The name Morgan Harris was prominent in the "blue guide", which had a thin chapter on Yosemite Valley routes (in fact he was pictured on the dustjacket). This was the only guidebook until 1964, and many of us knew most of the 1st ascent parties' names by heart. Here is Harris' obituary:
http://www.berkeley.edu/news/berkeleyan/2005/03/17_harris.shtml
I never knew this guy, who disappeared from the Valley scene long before I got there. But I was delighted to be reminded in the obit that Morgan Harris was the first to climb the Rotten Log (in 1936!), one of the great early landmarks on one of the great early routes.
John Morton
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yo
climber
NOT Fresno
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Mar 22, 2005 - 03:43pm PT
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Thanks for that link. Sounds like a good life.
Although I never really knew anything about him, Morgan Harris was one of my all-time climbing heroes. My entire concept of him came from that shot on the back of the Reid free guide, an old black-and-white of a kid in tennies, manila rope around his waist with some mystery knot, climbing up light and free.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Mar 23, 2005 - 01:07am PT
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Castle Cliffs 4 Yosemite Falls Upper, East Yosemite Point Buttress 1940 Dave Brower Morgan Harris
Cathedral Chimney 5.7 Cathedral Rocks Higher Cathedral Rock 1936 Dave Brower Morgan Harris
Church Tower, East Arete 5.5 Cathedral Rocks Cathedral Spires Area 1935 Ken Adam Olive Dyer Morgan Harris
Circular Staircase 5.8 Sentinel Rock 1940 Dave Brower Morgan Harris 1959 Krehe Ritter Steve Roper
Glacier Point Terrace 5.2 Glacier Point 1937 Dave Brower Morgan Harris
Grizzly Peak, South Gully 5.5 A1 Half Dome 1938 Dave Brower Morgan Harris
Leaning Chimney 5.4 Cathedral Rocks Leaning Tower 1940 Dave Brower Ken Adam Morgan Harris Richard Leonard
Lower Brother, Southwest Arete, Left 5.6 Three Brothers Lower Brother 1937 Dave Brower Morgan Harris
Middle Brother, Southwest Arete, Right 5.7 Three Brothers Middle Brother 1941 Dave Brower Morgan Harris
Panorama Cliff 5.4 Upper Merced Canyon, South Panorama Cliff 1936 Dave Brower Morgan Harris
Piton Traverse 5.7 Washington Column 1935 Morgan Harris Jack Reigelhuth Richard Leonard
Royal Arches Route 5.9 The Royal Arches 1936 Ken Adam Morgan Harris W. Kenneth Davis
Stanford Point, North Face Cathedral Rocks Leaning Tower, Fifi Buttress Area 1942 Dave Brower L. Bruce Meyer Morgan Harris Alan Hedden
Yosemite Point Couloir 5.7 Yosemite Falls Upper, East Arrowhead Arete Area 1938 Dave Brower Morgan Harris Torcom Bedayan
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