Discussion Topic |
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Mick Ryan
Trad climber
Kendal, English Lake District
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 14, 2008 - 08:05am PT
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Many would agree that the Bachar- Yerian (5.11c R/X) on Medlicott Dome in California's Tuolumne Meadows is one of the finest routes in the world, on the most perfect sheet of golden granite, in one of the most beautiful alpine areas in the world.
The Bachar- Yerian takes a stunning and knee-trembling line up this vertical 500ft face, protected by 9 bolts (a #4 Friend and slings over knobs), all placed on the lead by John Bachar. The climbing is characterised by pulling on a sea of chicken-heads or knobs, often the size of peanuts, that stick out from the rock.
19 year old George Ullrich of Kendal attempted the route without clipping the bolts.
See the video and read the extended report at: http://new.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html?month=07&year=2008#n45198
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Anastasia
climber
Not there
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Jul 14, 2008 - 08:11am PT
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Wow, knowing that those little knobs tend to break without warning... I can't help but shiver.
AF
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couchmaster
climber
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Jul 14, 2008 - 08:28am PT
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Holy crap, now I feel real old. That's some good sh#t right there Mick, thanks for putting it up. After they come with with the movie, have them do a dvd version after it's shown around eh?
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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Jul 14, 2008 - 09:24am PT
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where the threshold of gravity meets the threshold of friction,
stout men and women thrive.
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Jul 14, 2008 - 09:26am PT
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Wow! Very impressive, using hooks on the knobs for pro & working modern gear in those barely there seams is way beyond bold. The climbing is pretty tough even clipping the few bolts that are there, but to do the route like George did is a few steps beyond anything I've ever seen.
Good job lad!
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Riotch
Trad climber
Kayenta, Arizona
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Jul 14, 2008 - 11:31am PT
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Did he really SEND the B.Y. like that? In the segment they keep referring to his "attempt".
Still though, even thinking about considering doing something like that takes a lot of balls.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jul 14, 2008 - 11:35am PT
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There is no "last great project"...
Only the Next Great Project: potentiated by imaginative vision and executed with skillful boldness.
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BenL
climber
18+hours to ElCap,13 to Tre Cime
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Jul 14, 2008 - 11:45am PT
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"George got through the first two pitches all fine. Last main pitch, he was about 6ft from the belay and had to clip a bolt. He was belayed and followed by Mason Earl. Mason was clipped into belay bolts. They lowered off after pitch three. The main pitches are the first three."
says Dave Gill.
So no clean ascent, but still PROUD!!
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bachar
Gym climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Jul 14, 2008 - 12:02pm PT
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Good effort....damn!
I take it he linked the second and third pitches together? I can see belaying on natural gear on the first belay and climbing the second and third as one pitch but doing that last move on the third would be extremely committing....yikes.
Again, amazing effort.
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sawin
climber
So., CA.
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Jul 14, 2008 - 12:30pm PT
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Hi Mick Ryan,
bachar,
If you would email the video I would be very appreciative.
There is currently a known fbi server associated to the
download?
BES
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Brian
climber
Cali
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Jul 14, 2008 - 12:38pm PT
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Oh my God...
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sawin
climber
So., CA.
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Jul 14, 2008 - 12:47pm PT
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I'm on a government system. Apparently the fbi is in
support of the videos however I have not checked with
the admin on the state system regards the video download
to the state system.
BES
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Jul 14, 2008 - 01:01pm PT
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Video is HUGE. No way it's mailing anywhere.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Jul 14, 2008 - 01:13pm PT
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The video is 75Mb. I haven't seen a mailbox that can handle that, but I guess it's possible.
Best bet is probably this...
Go to the page, right-click on the link to the movie and select "Save Target As..." and save it to your machine.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Jul 14, 2008 - 01:14pm PT
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Headpoint of a long V3? Where is Jingy when you need him......
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Brian
climber
Cali
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Jul 14, 2008 - 01:27pm PT
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Bacher's onsight remains in a class by itself; however, the guy didn't really "rehearse" or "headpoint" it. He did it once with no falls (i.e., onsight) and then decided to go for it without the bolts.
It's not onsight (the second time he went up).
It's not what us Americans call trad (i.e., ground up onsight).
It's not the FA.
But don't pretend it isn't a fvcking proud effort!
Brian
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Impaler
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Jul 14, 2008 - 01:53pm PT
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This guy is an amazing climber. I met him at the needles a week ago and saw him run up Atlantis (11c) barely placing any gear. Earlier that day he took an 80-footer from either Pegleg or Ankles Away (12b or 11+) that looked way scary! Both routes have junk gear and hard and sustained climbing. Awesome job on BY!!!
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stevep
Boulder climber
Salt Lake, UT
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Jul 14, 2008 - 02:13pm PT
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Coz, you also seemed to implying that he had headpointed his ascent. He didn't, he did it onsight. He only came back and rehearsed for the no-bolts attempt.
Sure it would have been more impressive if he had done it no-bolts onsight, or as an onsight free solo, but I don't think you should be criticizing for headpointing. He sent it in as good of style as you did. He then came back and tried to do better.
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Hawkeye
climber
State of Mine
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Jul 14, 2008 - 02:53pm PT
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coz said, "I did the 5th ascent of the B/Y in 84, at the age of 19, I had no problem with it and perhaps if I tried to do it without bolts, I could have."
yeah, too bad you missed your chance too. now all you can to is spray about how you coulda woulda on the intardnet...
proud for the new guys
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seamus mcshane
climber
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Jul 14, 2008 - 03:00pm PT
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I always resort back to the question:
Would this dude have done it if there was no camera present?
Impressive, none the less.
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