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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 6, 2008 - 01:49pm PT
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An interesting discussion was started in the 14c crack thread, but I thought it might be good to break out the discussion asside from that impressive assent.
I guess I've been involved in climbing long enough to have seen and approached climbs from various angles, ie "traditional", sport, and the occasional solo. When I started climbing was just prior to the introduction of "sport" climbing in the U.S.
To me, in free climbing, or "traditional" free climbing, the purpose of the climbing equipment is soley to protect the climbers, but not to aid in the ascent. If one is constantly hanging on the rope, working out moves etc, then the equipment has most definately aided in the ascent.
To the question of what is the hardest "trad" climb, the style that was used would have to come into the picture. I'm not saying one is a better climber because of their approach. But to me the hardest trad climb would have to be one that was lead from the ground up, placing pro while climbing, and ideally not falling, or if falling lowering to the ground and starting over.
This isn't meant in any way to slam anyone in how they climb or the styles they employ. I've spent my time hanging in my harness struggling to work out a move. To me it was more of a training excercise than free climbing.
Even though she put alot of work into the project, I think Lynn Hill's free climbing the Nose in a day would have to rank right up there as one of the absolute hardest traditional climbs, because it encompassed so much more than just technically hard moves.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Are there still climbers who lower after every fall?
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scuffy b
climber
up the coast from Woodson
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Yes, there are.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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sure are...
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JP
Trad climber
Quebec
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bullshit
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nutjob
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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While on this topic... what about belay stations? Hanging on bolts at a belay is also aid, in the spirit of "would I free solo it" as a measure of "did you free climb it"
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WoodySt
Trad climber
Riverside
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I only lower after a fall when I need plasma, bones set, I find myself looking down a long dark tunnel with light at the end or Locker starts sobbing; and I have to take time to hug him.
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Euroford
Trad climber
chicago
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i like kor's idea of trad. free what you can, aid what you can't, just hurry up and get to the damn top.
but sometimes i go sport climbing with my trad rack.
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| Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
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