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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 16, 2008 - 12:33pm PT
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Came across this mysterious old "topo" in one of my old Yosemite guidebooks:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Feb 16, 2008 - 12:42pm PT
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Great stuff!
Penned by the artist formerly (and currently) known as um, ...well by the Animal Knickname.
I may have to give the Gargoyle a call and give him the heads up.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Feb 16, 2008 - 05:27pm PT
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I've got no clue what this is about. The writing style vaguely reminds me of a manuscript I saw once,
Dhaulagirideon, by the (then) young Michael Tobias.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Feb 16, 2008 - 06:04pm PT
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Well, it is about a few things Chiloe.
Not so dis-similar from the Figures/Yabo/Cox FA deal.
To begin with,
There's a saying about the Devil making use of idle time.
Then, there's this thing about self-reliance and being easily amused.
Throw in a dash of love for words.
Add a heap of male adolescent style grab asss.
(At the time of authoring, we were in our mid twenties, but that's beside the point)...
Identify a target: in this case the actor Harry Guardino's son, a climber, aka The Gargoyle.
Add some homo erotic goofiness and you have the Gargoyle Luncheon Meat.
All we had to do, when in ear shot of the 'Goyle, was croon "Lunch-eeeoooun" and spontaneous laughter was had by all.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Feb 16, 2008 - 06:10pm PT
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Hey Deucey, what else ya got in the grab bag?
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Mimi
climber
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Feb 16, 2008 - 06:14pm PT
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So that's the full story. Don't recall witnessing the live Luncheon lowdown but it compares to many similar interactions. Learning the truths behind these antics/stories/vocab always cracks me up. Even +20 years later. Thanks for the laughs Roy.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Feb 16, 2008 - 06:15pm PT
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'Very important you keep this on the QT Mimi.
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Mimi
climber
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Feb 16, 2008 - 06:17pm PT
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The secret is safe with me. ;]
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Feb 16, 2008 - 06:19pm PT
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Vintage! Makes me wanna reel out some of the achival stuff...
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2008 - 07:10pm PT
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Tar-
I got a stack of old "topos", 'cept most would probably put me in the slammer if I posted them. Just got thorugh scanning a bunch of stuff. I'll have to sort though it when I have some time. A lot of cool real climbing topos too (some just posted on the bigwalls.net forum at http://www.bigwalls.net/forum2/ , including Bob the Aid Man's Time Machine).
p.s. nice "deconstruction" of the psyche of the Camp 4 dirtbag...
Chiloe-
Michael Tobias--if it's the same person, I attended some of his classes when he taught at Dartmouth. He was all the rage. A fine climber of sorts, too, if I recall correctly. Personally, I thought his stuff was a bit esoteric and contrived, but I'm a coarse bohemian, I suppose.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Feb 16, 2008 - 07:29pm PT
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I say edit out the "jailtime" segments and post up
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Feb 16, 2008 - 07:53pm PT
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Deuce, that's the same Tobias I'm sure. The Dhaulagirideon I saw was an as-yet-unpublished
manuscript, I believe. I've never seen any writing like that, before or since. Pat Ament might be
able to add more to this story.
When that manuscript was published it became the subject of a book review in Mountain, which
was almost as singular as Dhaulagirideon itself. Now there would be something for somebody
to unearth and scan.
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Mimi
climber
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Feb 16, 2008 - 07:58pm PT
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Yeah post up, Mike. And where the fuk is BVB?! He's got a million of 'em.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Feb 16, 2008 - 08:15pm PT
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There is a route, maybe at Taquitz, called "Toe Bias".
I'm half certain it is a Tobias route.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Feb 16, 2008 - 08:22pm PT
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Oh, and Deuce-
Deconstruction?
You flatter me sir.
I think it was once, still is, known as sh#t talkin'...
heh, heh.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Feb 16, 2008 - 08:24pm PT
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Hey Mike Paul!
You got anything handy?
I gotta say, you put out some good stuff BITD.
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Mimi
climber
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Feb 16, 2008 - 08:27pm PT
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But it was such fine sh#t talkin'!
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2008 - 08:34pm PT
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ok,here ya go...
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2008 - 08:45pm PT
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I got some scans from the "Big Wall Tech Manual--SHOP COPY" (annotations from Lechlinski, Russell, and others), but those really would cross the line, methinks...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Feb 16, 2008 - 08:53pm PT
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I knew it was Walt!
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