Sky is Falling (Porcelain Wall)?

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Messages 1 - 13 of total 13 in this topic

Mungeclimber

Trad climber

sorry, just posting out loud.

Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 1, 2008 - 01:54am PT

Is "Sky is Falling" the same as what is known as "Porcelain Wall"

The route(s) was erased?

But why?

u4ick

Trad climber

temecula, ca

Feb 1, 2008 - 02:24am PT

UHHH,DUH,I DUN KNOW...

Mungeclimber

Trad climber

sorry, just posting out loud.

Topic Author's Reply - Feb 1, 2008 - 02:28am PT

good snappy answer there pickwick

nicolamartinez

Big Wall climber

Brazil

Feb 1, 2008 - 08:10am PT

I climbed When Hell was in Session up there in 2006... I think Sky is falling is the name of Kohl´s route on the Porcelain Wall. Hope you´re all doing good. Peace. N

For more photos.

http://www.nicolamartinez.blogspot.com

Minerals

Social climber

The Deli

Feb 3, 2008 - 03:58am PT

Porcelain Wall (the original 1978 Harding, Bosque, Lomba route) was chopped during the FA. Robbins/Harding drama...

Klaus and I put up Sky Is Falling in '98 (to the left of the Harding route). There is a rough line drawn on Clay's Half Dome poster.

Tom

Big Wall climber

San Luis Obispo CA

Feb 3, 2008 - 08:06pm PT

And Klaus did When Hell Was In Session with Big Wall Pete Takeda, right?

Mungeclimber

Trad climber

sorry, just posting out loud.

Topic Author's Reply - Feb 3, 2008 - 09:02pm PT

Thx Minerals. I was checking out Clay's topo on his site, but don't have a big print version so wasn't sure which was which.

What exactly was the drama between Royal and Warren? This is post el cap chopping incident? So directly following it?

Minerals

Social climber

The Deli

Feb 13, 2008 - 02:33pm PT

Yeah, I guess it was in response to Royal chopping the lower portion of the WOEML... Kind of like saying... "Yeah, chop this, beeyotch!!!" Seems strange to me.

Sky Is Falling joins the Harding route for a short section in the middle of the wall - I was trying to bat-hook the empty holes where rivets had been removed. I finally got frustrated with trying to hook holes that were not drilled for hooking and thus, decided to drill the holes a little deeper and sink some machinehead rivets. When I got to the belay, I had to place a couple of belay bolts because there weren't any. We went left from this belay, where Harding continued straight up, on one of the most continuously blank sections of rock that I have ever seen. Harding was a madman!

Edit Note for older post above: Harding FA was 1971, not 1978… My bad.

bringmedeath

climber

la la land

Feb 13, 2008 - 03:32pm PT

The first pitch looks fun...

Harding was rad!!! It is rad that he destroyed that route, Robbins was, still seems, use your imagination...

Mike Bolte

Trad climber

Planet Earth

Feb 13, 2008 - 03:46pm PT

warren called it the "forbidden wall". Some story that the wall was off limits to climbing although I don't think that was really true. He hung out bumming food from us for a couple days after completing it. C4 was closed (am I remembering that right?) and the usual C4 crowd was camping in the lodge parking lot across the road and the little bit of woods there off the parking lot. Bosque was on the FA as was a woman named Cristie who I had never seen before and never saw after and there was a fourth guy too.