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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 31, 2008 - 12:48am PT
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Tonight was another Wide Wednesday sesh - with Jaybro, spyork and BoKu as well as Gary Carpenter and myself.
The crack size changes to be more challenging as we master the different widths. There is enough of a biometric difference in hand, fist, knee, foot size as well as thigh length, forearm length, etc so that someone usually has a relatively easy time, and others are just suffering.
Gary enjoys finding the size that maximizes the suffering - "pain is weakness leaving the body" - and so after the last session a few weeks ago he asks for input on the next size.
I suggest "Ahab" sizes... which I remember as a tapering down crack which is just a bit too long for my hand-to-elbow to lock on the lip and too large for an interior heel-toe, and at the top ok with both of those things... something like 14" on the lip and 11" at the back of his 4' deep Wonder Wide Crack Simulator™
So the monster is flared, but not overhanging.
Gary set this up a week or so ago... but he was skeptical of the difficulty:
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2008 11:34:08 -0500 (EST)
From: Carpenter
Reply-To: Carpenter
To: scuffy_b, Jaybro, Ed Hartouni, spyork, davidji, zander, BoKu, Aaron
Subject: Thursday??
I re-set the crack to Ed's specifications last weekend. 14"x12" flare at the base and
11"x9" at the top. My guess is that it will be pretty easy. May have to add a Scuffy style constriction part way up.
The weather looks iffy for Thursday. If it's not raining and you want to try it out I'll be home Thursday and you can come by. Usual time 6:30.
G
We didn't go out that Thursday 'cause it was cold and raining, something about climbing in the rain that didn't seem appealing.
This evening we had a go. I went first.
I must say that Gary was retreating from his fear that it would be "pretty easy" as he had goofed around in the bottom a little bit on the weekend.
It was sort of the same as Ahab except that the way Ahab leans tells you if your technique is any good instantly, by spitting you out. Gary's crack is vertical so you can hangdog... which I did. Also, the allthread provides a nice obstacle to get around... it is off!..
Eventually I worked out a strenuous sequence and touched the top (referred to sometimes as "biting the cupcake," see Jaybro's OW birthday picks from the summer). Next spyork gave it a shot, then BoKu, Gary got to the top, he was worrying that he ate dinner earlier, a good worry. He hangdogged too, I felt vendicated. Finally Jaybro, our WOW (Wizard of Offwidth™™™) got in and had a great time struggling up the crack.
WE HAD A NICE PROBLEM ON OUR HANDS!
I think this size shut everyone down (Jaybro excluded as he pretty much got up without the rope being too tight, but not in his usual facile manner).
Hopefully Gary will post some pictures...
We'll be working this width for a bit, and maybe test ourselves on Ahab in the not too distant future...
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Jan 31, 2008 - 12:56am PT
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Ahab flare is pretty dramatic. I had a 6 friend in the back. It's gotta be something like 6" at arms reach inside to 12-14" at the lip. Probably a 9-10" inside to 14" outside flare would be a good simulator.
A good look at Texplorer in there:
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jan 31, 2008 - 02:16am PT
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Left side in seemed easier, tonight, or maybe it was the beers?
ps not "shut" just slowed.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Jan 31, 2008 - 02:18am PT
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Well which hand was the beer in?
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jan 31, 2008 - 02:22am PT
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Hmm, may have to take better notes next time!
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spyork
Social climber
A prison of my own creation
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Jan 31, 2008 - 11:13am PT
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The flare on the plywood paradigm might not be as pronounced as the real thing, but I'm not Ed. Ed actually measured Ahab.
All I know was it was freakin hard. I have several new pains in my palms, knees and elbows this morning. And I didn't make it all the way up.
I'll give it an 8 on the difficulto-meter.
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Gary Carpenter
climber
SF Bay Area
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Jan 31, 2008 - 12:06pm PT
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OK Steve 5.8 it is!
Here are some photos:
Jaybro the “Wizard of Wide” giving a lesson
Spyork taking his turn
Tryin to work a foot stack
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jan 31, 2008 - 12:13pm PT
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Man, that guy has some big boats!
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O.D.
Trad climber
LA LA Land
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Jan 31, 2008 - 12:48pm PT
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I was really anxious to see the photos. Cool machine!
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scuffy b
climber
Stump with a backrest
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Jan 31, 2008 - 01:03pm PT
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Gah. I just couldn't make myself do the drive.
Brother Jim assured me it was too cold for enjoyment.
There's always next time.
sm
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Prod
Social climber
Charlevoix, MI
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Jan 31, 2008 - 01:11pm PT
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Sure would like some info on the construction of that beast.
Prod.
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martygarrison
Trad climber
atlanta
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Jan 31, 2008 - 01:13pm PT
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that is one of the funniest contraptions I have ever seen. You guys are either way intoxicated or just plain sick. Hats off to you, I really can't stop chuckling.
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spyork
Social climber
A prison of my own creation
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Jan 31, 2008 - 01:14pm PT
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scuffy, its a valid problem. You will not be able to resist the temptation for long.
edit: Marty, I usually find that I climb it better after I crack a beer. Perhaps I have a problem...
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J. Werlin
climber
Cedaredge
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Jan 31, 2008 - 01:59pm PT
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Is it just me, or is part of the upper section of Midterm a similar size?
Yet to have the pleasure of Ahab.
Way to go lads! Wish I was closer than 1200 miles.
cheers,
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scuffy b
climber
Stump with a backrest
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Jan 31, 2008 - 02:20pm PT
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Well, the upper part of Midterm goes from 3 inches to 3 feet,
so yes, it's kinda like that.
It's the transition that makes Midterm tough.
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scuffy b
climber
Stump with a backrest
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Jan 31, 2008 - 02:21pm PT
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Is there any progress report from Rhodo Router?
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jan 31, 2008 - 02:39pm PT
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With a little imagination it appears that Mr York is fighting the trashcompactor in Star wars.
Scuffy, official Saab Temp was 34º when I left last night.
There is a little midterm in all of them.
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Redwreck
Social climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jan 31, 2008 - 02:49pm PT
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You guys ain't right in the head. I say this with deepest respect and admiration.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Jan 31, 2008 - 03:03pm PT
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The christmas lights sure are a nice touch.
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