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martygarrison
Trad climber
atlanta
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 28, 2008 - 06:09pm PT
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Folks please bear with me, as this is only my second or third day on this site. This thread may have already been posted a number of times however I was so enthralled by the 10d and 11a posting (love the pics!) I was just hoping to read others view on the next grade or two. Once again, I apologize if this is some repeat. Here is my list
by hook or by crook
leaning meany
kaukulator (that ow up top is harder than the crux!)
3rd pitch astroman
butterballs
pinky paralysis
cringe
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Jan 28, 2008 - 06:19pm PT
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Black Primo and the 1st ten pitches of Mother Earth are differnt kinds of 11+/12a climbing.
JL
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yo
climber
The Eye of the Snail
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Jan 28, 2008 - 06:21pm PT
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The pitch below the Narrows is rated all those grades you mention, plus 5.8.
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Jan 28, 2008 - 06:22pm PT
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Ya JL's right, you need a big belly, big balls and sticky rubber.
Mad World 511.c Calaveras Dome, does that count? (belly, balls/rubber)
Digital Delight 5.12a Yosemite Valley
Soul Sacrifice 5.11c Yosemite Valley
Hermit Domes Crack (Golden Child)Tuolemne 5.12a
Pitch one of Blind Faith 5.11d Yosemite Valley
Speed of Life 5.11b Tuolemne
Blues Riff 5.11c Tuolemne
Follywood 5.12c Yosemite Valley (beware of falling butresses)
....just a few that came to mind
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Jan 28, 2008 - 06:24pm PT
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11b: Goldrush, Kaukulator
11c: Blind Faith, Butterballs, Sky (never tried it)
11d: Separate Reality (never tried it, but hey...),
12a: A Dogs Roof, Bad Ass Momma, Killer Pillar something
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martygarrison
Trad climber
atlanta
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2008 - 06:31pm PT
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oh wow, I forgot about goldrush. vern clevenger taught me how to do that one with a thumb taped and extended out as my hands were way too small. He seemed to have enormous mits and it was always so easy for him.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Jan 28, 2008 - 06:36pm PT
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Marty Marty Marty.... tape is aid.... aiders on a roll..... unless you are a dentist or hand model, it should be shunned ;)
Re: goldrush.... nice and rough in the crack, and just over fist size... might be 5" for a about 3 feet. Great problem. Always thought the top was harder than the wide stuff. Of course I have a giant fist, so that eases the initial grimness.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jan 28, 2008 - 06:40pm PT
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I've done all but two on Mr Walling's List (dog's roof & Killer pillar), My thoughts
Goldrush is deperate for those with small hands. Way harder than Kaukulator, though it,(K-lator) has two definitely tricky parts of it's own.
Blind Faith (first pitch) harder than Butterballs harder than Sky which is totally different climbing. -I had Fire™s for BF but first climbed the other two (I've only climbed sky, once) in EB's, and I still felt it to be distinctly harder (I followed it clean, by the skin of my teeth)
Bad Ass Moma was easier for me (after I finally got it) than Seperate reality. B.A.M. was always repeatable But S.R., even though I onsighted it, I have fallen on numerous times subsequently.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Jan 28, 2008 - 06:48pm PT
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Energy Crisis! .11d?
Sweet 1 1/8" to 1 1/4" splitter. Not a single really hard move on it, but they add up quickly. After 75' or so of rings, rattly fingers, thin hands, rings, and more rings you have to bust a traverse move or two. The 18yr old I followed on it came about one move from onsighting. If this thing was at the Cookie or other roadside crags, it would have lines at the base every day. Plus, you've got Cream and Jam Session right next to it.
Roadside Attraction. .12a?
Can't beat the approach. Wicked leg pump in the stemming down low, a funky bouldery crux out of the corner into slightly overhanging ring locks for a body length.
YSL styling it...
A better view of the line
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Climbswithtits
Social climber
Fresno
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Jan 28, 2008 - 06:50pm PT
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What's that badass bolted slab by Camp 4? Best route ever! :)
It's totally iUber!
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Jan 28, 2008 - 06:57pm PT
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Energy Crisis kick's ass, rattlers and thin hands w/ sinker hand pods to gear off of every 15 feet or so, its kind of a sleeper due to its location but it certainly delivers. Torque Converter 5.11.d and Goldfinger 5.12a at Arch are a couple of contenders-
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 28, 2008 - 07:30pm PT
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Hey
You can't revel this stuff, these are the hidden jems not to be seen by the masses and mere morals until they have tasted the bitter fruits of eating roots and tubers and wallowing in the sacred dirt for many years.
And Toyota's and Subaru's need not apply.
Only vehicles held together with duct tape and bailing wire can go there.
Are you out of your minds?
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, Ca
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Jan 28, 2008 - 07:59pm PT
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What's that one right under Serenity Crack? Mid 11, one pitch. I thought that one was kind of fun.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 28, 2008 - 08:45pm PT
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A couple of shots of Black Primo for my friend with the guns!
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Jan 28, 2008 - 08:55pm PT
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Classic routes at obscure (and not so obscure) crags in this difficulty range = mini-traxion hootenany.
There are even a couple of choice fixed aiders fer when the cracks don't start right at the ground...'cause it would be a pain to ascend the fixed line w/o the fixed aider, I guess.
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scuffy b
climber
Stump with a backrest
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Jan 29, 2008 - 11:02am PT
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Dwindling Energy?
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martygarrison
Trad climber
atlanta
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2008 - 01:43pm PT
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Wbraun. I disagree. this is not our playground because we happened to be lucky enough to be young when it was virgin. This is the worlds playground. We should encourage the youth to discover the pleasure and joy we were so fortunate to have had. As stewards, we should be proud when a new teenager driving up in his toyota flashes every old hard mans climb in the valley, then climbs things that we could have never imagined. Thats progess, thats the beauty of the sport.
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clustiere
Trad climber
Rock Ridge/ Oakland CA
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Jan 29, 2008 - 02:09pm PT
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Hey thanks for breaking the crust off of things. So what else should we know about..
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 29, 2008 - 02:25pm PT
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Beggar's Buttress,
You drive almost right under it, in any ride of your choosing.
On the same rock, (Lower Cathedral)
Never did that thing Doninni freed, Overhang Overpass?
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mark
climber
san diego, ca
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Jan 29, 2008 - 03:37pm PT
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Tarbuster, Donnini's route is REAL good and REAL hard, to get to and off as well. Worth the effort, for damn sure.
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