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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 28, 2007 - 03:08pm PT
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Was in the valley yesterday and this middle aged gent from somewhere in eastern Europe pulls up on the ledge next to me, plugs a single cam in a crack, throws a munter hitch on the biner clipped to the cam, yells he's off and his parnter is on and belays him up this way. If nothing else, it sure was fast.
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JAK
climber
The Souf
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Oct 28, 2007 - 04:18pm PT
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Yeah, that's taking fast and light to about as logical an extreme as you can. Some might say, illogical extreme.
Maybe it was well well below he and his partner's limit.
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 28, 2007 - 04:27pm PT
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Leader was totally solid, but it was his partner's first time climbing!! They were on something 5.8ish.
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monolith
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Oct 28, 2007 - 07:02pm PT
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Was he belaying directly off the single cam?
I'm guessing so if he used a munter hitch on it.
If I had only one cam as an anchor, I would belay off my harness and get as good a stance I could so the anchor would be tested only as a last resort.
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WBraun
climber
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Oct 28, 2007 - 07:59pm PT
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Good for him.
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mrtropy
Trad climber
Nor Cal
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Oct 28, 2007 - 08:27pm PT
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Just the opposite of the pages and pages of discussing an anchor on some sites. Get 'er done.
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Darren D.
Social climber
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Oct 28, 2007 - 08:37pm PT
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Was his cam eastern european too? I guess that's better than my cams, which are apparently out-sourced to China.
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rwedgee
Ice climber
canyon country,CA
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Oct 28, 2007 - 11:20pm PT
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Dude, I was doing that whole bit to freak you out. You fell for the phony Werner accent. I resent being called middle aged. Watch yourself!
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murcy
climber
San Fran Cisco
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Oct 28, 2007 - 11:29pm PT
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what's the biner for?
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paganmonkeyboy
Trad climber
the blighted lands of hatu
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Oct 28, 2007 - 11:43pm PT
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One Cam ? Bah !
Real men make a webbing monkeyfist and belay off that, dag nabbits...
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Delhi Dog
Trad climber
Good Question...
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Oct 29, 2007 - 12:09am PT
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"Good for him."
...until you have to go clean him up.
DD
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cliffhanger
Trad climber
California
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Oct 29, 2007 - 12:36am PT
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When I climbed the NW Face of Half Dome a French party of 3 speedily caught up to us, determined to do it in a day. The leader plugs in one piece, ties into it and proceeds to belay both of his partners up with the over the shoulder belay. I saw Spencer Tracy do it in an old movie but didn't think any modern climbers still used it.
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climbrunride
Trad climber
Durango, CO
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Oct 29, 2007 - 01:33am PT
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That's a very common method among European guides, and some euros in general.
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Gene
climber
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Oct 29, 2007 - 01:37am PT
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If it's bomber, why not? It's better than some belays many of us have made - like pinching the rope between our thigh and the rock off a shitty stopper and telling our second to not fall.
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HMS
Trad climber
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Oct 29, 2007 - 09:25am PT
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Dont think that's very common in Europe... Speedy climbing, yes that's common (tss, all those slooow Ami's). But crap belaying like described isn't typical for Euro's. Belaying over the shoulder, never seen anyone do so (exept on really easy stuff - jus taking the rope in hand-over-hand). Belaying with a plate is just as fast on more diff terrain.
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wootles
climber
Ceti Alpha V
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Oct 29, 2007 - 09:48am PT
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Good for him.
Good for business, eh Werner.
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Matt
Trad climber
primordial soup
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Oct 29, 2007 - 12:03pm PT
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i've seen that a few times-
once w/ this really fast team on the EB of MCR. the guy was leading his wife up, climbing really fast, very impressive, he was even wearing 5-tennies (approach shoes) and placing very little gear. when he arrived where we were, we offered to make some room for him (he obviously wasn't going to be there long), he said no thanks, this was all he needed, he plugged in a #1, threw on muenter, and yelled to his wife that she was on.
he had some german sounding name or something, what was it...
oh yeah, hans.
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| Messages 1 - 17 of total 17 in this topic |
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