Discussion Topic |
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| Messages 1 - 18 of total 18 in this topic |
Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Oct 15, 2007 - 01:28pm PT
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I agree. I just called Chessler and he wasn't very friendly.
Ken
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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Oct 15, 2007 - 01:35pm PT
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Maybe these should be donated to the Climbers Museum in the Valley instead of some rich snob hording them.
The history of climbing should be available to all that wish to appreciate what the pioneers did. Looking at old pictures of the first ascent and imagining doing that climb with that gear is mind boggling. My hips get waisted 2 days out in the best modern harnesses and jugging all those fixed lines with prussics, and hauling with old army bags, They were definitely adventurous types and deserve the proper recognition.
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Gene
climber
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Oct 15, 2007 - 01:52pm PT
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Ken,
Is one of the three he's trying to sell of adequate historical significance that we should try to pass the hat in order to try to get it for the museum?
Do you know what ever happened to the BAT Tent that someone was trying to sell online a year or so ago?
Folks,
If you have any old stuff stashed in your attics or garages, see if Ken can use them for the museum. One person's junk may be the community's treasure, especially if you fast forward 50 years.
Gene
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the Fet
Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
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Oct 15, 2007 - 02:06pm PT
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If RJ really went and got them out of a dumpster he saved them from a landfill. So it would be cool to donate them, but it's his perogative what he would do with them.
And since they aren't original Tarver stove legs they can't really be the "original stove legs" Maybe they should be called "the new originals".
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stevep
Boulder climber
Salt Lake, UT
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Oct 15, 2007 - 03:44pm PT
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Before you criticize RJ out of hand, he had a very nasty glissading accident last year. Maybe he's been forced to sell these to cover expenses?
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Oct 15, 2007 - 03:56pm PT
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Stevep, You are probably right. At least the Dolt pins are not in the landfill and may end up on display someday. They are not Stoveleg pitons. I will post a picture of a real one when my other computer is freed up.
Ken
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Gene
climber
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Oct 15, 2007 - 04:08pm PT
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The Chessler site said he got them from RJ ten years ago.
"Secor sold me all of Dolt's gear about ten years ago, and other than giving some to Reinhold Messner for his new mountaineering museum in Bolzano, this is the first we have mentioned what we have."
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the Fet
Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
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Oct 15, 2007 - 04:09pm PT
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Chessler said he bought them 10 years ago.
As far as being stovelegs: I recall that Tarver made the original 4, then Dolt went back to a junkyard to buy more and told the owner he wanted an old stove for the legs to make pitons from, the owner thought that was a waste of a good stove so would only sell him a stove with 3 legs. I wonder if one of those old stoves is worth $6000 now?! (4 legs at $1500)
So stovelegs? maybe
Original stovelegs? No. But probably used on the Nose FA. The originals are cooler looking, you can tell they are stovelegs.
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the Fet
Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
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Oct 15, 2007 - 04:13pm PT
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Chessler's
Interesting, this photo posted earlier by Ken says made my Rich Calderwood?
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Oct 15, 2007 - 04:44pm PT
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Calderwood made some Stovlegs too after using the Tarver ones. There were only seven made between Tarver and Calderwood and all were used on the Nose. When I talked to Calderwood, he believed he had made this one (memories get a little foggy after 50 years). Upon further investigation, I have determined that this one was made by Tarver. I have two of them and know where the third is.
Ken
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the Fet
Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
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Oct 15, 2007 - 06:49pm PT
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So the ones Chessler got were Dolts not Calderwoods, and hence probably not used on the Nose?
Wow that would be some serious false advertising in my book!
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Oct 15, 2007 - 06:56pm PT
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Calderwood's had an enamel coating, most of which chipped off during placement, and are a bit smaller than Tarver's. I have no idea whether those Dolt pins were used on the Nose or not. I would need to hear more about them before I would make that decision.
Ken
edit: The one on the left does not look like it was used much. Every piton that I have seen that was used on the Nose has been pretty worked. Dolt liked to polish most of his pitons to a shining silver finish resembling a chrome finish. I can't tell whether the pitons have the Dolt trademark.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Oct 15, 2007 - 07:47pm PT
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Here is a photo of the Nose rack. At least the wide stuff. I have most of what is in this picture. Most of their wide pins had rings except for the stuff made from I-Beam stock.
Ken
To bad we can't ask this guy.
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Scared Silly
Trad climber
UT
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 16, 2007 - 02:24pm PT
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Instead of the passing the hat perhaps we should chat with the likes of Frost, Robins, Steck, Chouinard, Roper, Denny, etc. and see if they would tell Chessler no more sigs until you donate Dolt's gear collection to the museum. I hear first hand that Chessler has gotten pretty stingy with his "donations" when asking folks for sigs so that he can pimp his books at a premium.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Oct 16, 2007 - 05:43pm PT
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I thought a genuine stoveleg piton looked like the thing to the right of the hammer in the above photo. Seems therefore there are only 1-2 actual "stoveleg" pins in the photo. I thought he had only 4-8 total and had to backclean a lot. I mean, how many scrap stoves were laying about, with how many legs? Weren't these things cast iron, and not super durable? No idea what the rest of those pins are about, but they look like a different metal than cast iron, as they have been bent to even form them for the first use and are not a fractured mess after bending. But - maybe I'm just not recalling anything correctly here.
JLP
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Gene
climber
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Oct 16, 2007 - 05:49pm PT
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Man, these old guys had balls, didn't they? What an accomplishment with do-it-yourself and surplus gear. Proud.
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Alex Perry
Trad climber
California
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Oct 18, 2007 - 01:52am PT
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Mike Chessler is a good man but kind of shy and sometimes comes across unfriendly. But he's not. He might have been put on the defensive. Was he wrong to purchase something of value when offered such? Nor is he a "rich snob" if someone above was describing Chessler with those words. He is very generous to many.
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