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Roger Brown
climber
Oceano, California
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 28, 2007 - 07:35pm PT
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Well, Clint did it again. Just when I had about given up on someone showing up to help with getting some ropes fixed, here comes Clint to the rescue. The guy drives most of the night, spends a long day leading pitches, then drives most of another night home. Bottom line? The following routes have had their 1/4" bolts replaced. Angel's Approach, Lucifer's Ledge, Variation from Point Beyond to Lucifer's Ledge, Lucifer's Ledge to the Oasis, Anchor's Away, and Sailin Shoes/Sailin Shoe's first pitch variation. I got this overpowering urge to go home for a few days, so I left three static ropes fixed, and using those cool ledges, there should be access to several one pitch routes that could use some work.
Roger Brown
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 28, 2007 - 07:38pm PT
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Thanks for all the work! Not only that, on routes that are climbable by the lesser mortals - though I bet I'll still be a bit thrilled by the runouts!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 28, 2007 - 09:17pm PT
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thanks Roger and Clint for the hard work in what must be a hot place!
Your labors are greatly appreciated.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Aug 28, 2007 - 09:25pm PT
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Roger - where do we pin the medal?
the thought of repairing the bolts on the Apron? - kinda staggering but, you would know that probably better than anyone!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Aug 28, 2007 - 09:28pm PT
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Good people, good stuff!
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lars johansen
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Aug 28, 2007 - 10:21pm PT
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Thanks a million!!!!!
Those were some of my favorite routes. Much appreciated.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Aug 29, 2007 - 01:39am PT
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Really Rodger and Clint, you both deserve medals.
And no, we won't "pin" them on you!
Sailin' Shoes! Oasis!! YeHa.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Sep 11, 2007 - 06:53pm PT
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After much delay, here are some photos of working with Roger at the Apron on August 17th. He's still busy there now! I believe he will stop long enough to join the Yosemite Facelift party.
Staging at the base of Monday Morning Slab - lead line plus 7 ropes tied together.
Following p1 of Monday Morning Slab - Right Side.
Following p2.
At p2 anchor, enroute to Point Beyond.
Following p3, to the flake tunnel anchor.
The key bolt on this pitch had already been replaced by someone, but there were 3 additional (very unnecessary) bolts added!
We were entertained at this point by some people who were looking for the start of the Harry Daley route, but then realized that a bear was roaming the base. They left shortly after the bear did. We were trying to encourage them to tie the bear in and have it lead the first pitch....
Roger at the flake tunnel belay. The bolt on this traverse had already been replaced by someone.
Roger getting ready to follow. More unnecessary bolts had been added to the upper part of the pitch.
Belay atop p1 of Angel's Approach.
L to R: OK 1/4" (hauled from it), 1/4", 1/4", 3/8", 1/4" chopped.
I was also disgusted to find at least 4 retrobolts on this pitch (bolts 2, 8, 10 and 11). I didn't clip them. bolt 2 was right in the middle of a crux move.... These bolts had Cassin hangers, and we believe they were probably added because someone was scared of the existing bolts and did not know how to pull them and enlarge the original holes. So the bolt replacement on this route was long overdue!
Roger provides moral support as I skip clipping more retrobolts on p2 of Angel's Approach. This particular bolt might be justified since there is a pin scar next to it with no resident pin and not really possible to place a nut there.
Roger ready to follow p2 of Angel's Approach. Typical retrobolt with Cassin hanger, about 2' above an original bolt. Note: I believe Roger removed all the obvious retrobolts with Cassin hangers; ASCA does not replace retrobolts. Usually Roger does not remove retrobolts, but in this case they were easy to identify and were essentially trash to clean up. On this day I was just helping get the ropes fixed; Roger did all the bolt replacement himself on later days, except for the two I got this day.
Anchor atop Angel's Approach p2. Note Cassin retrobolt on far right, already rusty.
Getting fairly high up on the Apron.
Existing anchor on Lucifer's Ledge. Single 1/4" bolt with lap links, probably backed up originally by a fixed pin. Was currently backed up with 2 nuts.
Roger replacing the anchor at Lucifer's Ledge. Note previous single 1/4" bolt anchor at knee level.
Existing anchor one pitch out from Lucifer's Ledge (shown as single bolt anchor in Meyers topo).
Pulling the worse(?) [edit: original] bolt while hoping the other [edit: (added)] one holds.... Much weight on footholds, too!
New meets old. I ended up having to move the bolts up about 12" because the old ones were in a hollow-sounding flake which was slightly detached from the main slab.
View back to Lucifer's Ledge.
Roger with newly replaced anchor at Lucifer's Ledge.
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bwancy1
Trad climber
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Sep 11, 2007 - 07:04pm PT
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Thank you! Climbed Angels Approach earlier this year and was not inspired by the bolts. Great route worth repeating!
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Bodega, CA
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Sep 11, 2007 - 07:29pm PT
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Oh, Yeah! Cool. Those bolts were in bad shape fifteen years ago! Thanks for restoring these climbs!
I'll never forget my friend Jim Lundeens face, leading up Angel's Approach. After clipping a few bad bolts and running it out on 5.9 friction, nearing the top, I yelled up, "How was that?" He looked down in complete seriousness and said "I just sh#t my pants." LOL! The rappels were even more scary than the climb.
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Sep 11, 2007 - 09:09pm PT
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Clint writes in the caption of one photo: "Existing anchor one pitch out from Lucifer's Ledge (shown as single bolt anchor in Meyers topo)."
Meyers topo is correct, historically. When I did Lucifer's Ledge back in 1976, I belayed off the single 1/4" bolt on the right (square nut). Given that the SMC hanger on the other bolt is one of the thicker stainless jobs, I would say that the second bolt was probably added in the late 70's or early 80's.
Just to be clear, I have no problem that this is now a 2-bolt belay. I was just adding some historical perspective.
Bruce
ps - belaying off that single 1/4" bolt was gripping to say the least. Back then belaying off a single 1/4" bolt was pretty commonplace, but it didn't make it any less scary.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Sep 11, 2007 - 09:15pm PT
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you guys rock!
thanks!!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Sep 11, 2007 - 09:42pm PT
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Good point, Bruce. And you may have noticed that when I replaced the second bolt, I used my own (non-ASCA - lizard imprint) hanger and bolt, so the ASCA gear still only replaced the original.
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climbrunride
Trad climber
Durango, CO
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Sep 11, 2007 - 09:44pm PT
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AWESOME! That's one of my favorite sections of rock. It's great climbing and really should be done more often. Good work!
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Sep 11, 2007 - 09:59pm PT
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totally over the top cool!
you guys have all the fun!
great pics, great work.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Sep 11, 2007 - 10:23pm PT
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Great work, Guys! Way to lead up there on the old stuff, Clint! I'm glad you managed safely.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Sep 12, 2007 - 12:31am PT
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Way to go!
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graham
Social climber
Ventura, California
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Sep 12, 2007 - 01:17am PT
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Thanks Guys!
how about the punch bowl and it's rap route?
thinking i might like to do that again.
Largo, how about you?
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Sep 12, 2007 - 01:21am PT
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Maybe OT or something... but does anyone else think it is absolutely moronic that these guys need to HAND DRILL these projects just because the Park Service has its head up its ass?
What is the fine for using a powerdrill to do this work? Maybe a collection can be taken up where the "purp" just replaces all the damn bolts with a drill, gets a $100 ticket and has his cordless drill confiscated. BFD.... cut a check to the green gestapo and move on to the next route.....
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graham
Social climber
Ventura, California
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Sep 12, 2007 - 01:26am PT
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I was wondering why there was no power drill happening here and over on the arches.
WTF
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