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Cuckawalla
Trad climber
Grand Junction, CO
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 19, 2007 - 07:38pm PT
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It seems from this point off we can hope that baking red rock will start to cool, and the lizards will take refuge from the cold. The animals all find shelter, burrow in and hibernate. All animals that is, except for the notorious desert rat.
After a summer of 100 degree temps, and escaping to higher elevations to climb, yesterday it was finally 85 degrees and a tad overcast.
What better way to kick off the desert season then running up a good adventure tower. Kissing Couple tower, known for its Long Dong Wall route is a classic. Lots of very exposed chimney and weird positions.
To the left of the hole towards the top you see that right leaning chunk of rock, you end up chimneying up that with total exposure under you.
It was put up by Harvey Carter and Layton Kor in 1960. The first pitch is a gem, thin climbing until the crack peters out and you do a traverse protected by an old pin on small crimps to gain a belay.
Me on the first pitch:
Jesse seconding the pitch.
Jesse Rocking the TRaverse
The 2nd pitch is up an easy loose flare that end in starts into a chimney.
JEsse Low on Pitch 2:
Me Seconding the top of Pitch 2:
Pitch 3 starts off with a scramble up some choss, mostly third class that allows you to follow some benches to reach the beginning of the Belfry. I ended up going to high and doing half of pitch 3. I ended up making a hanging belay in the chimney.
Jesse Starting the 2nd half of Pitch 3:
Higher Up and starting the very awesome chimney:
Me Seconding:
ME Com ming up the Exposed Chimney:
The last pitch requires some batshit navigation and excavation with an old pin and a finale of squeezing through a small hole to reach the summit.
Me Leading the last pitch:
(Look at those legs, almost a nut shot)
JEsse on the second:
Jesse doing the last Squeeze:
Last short chimney from the last anchors to the summit:
Summit Shots:
The only bummer is that the summit register is no longer there. Who knows where it walked off too.
The Rap:
The day ended with a decent hike back out of the canyon. Its hard to beat the monument as far as good adventure climbing with no crowds. Aside from doing Otto's Route I have never seen another person on the same climb I was on. So many lines exist out there with anchors and unknown names. You cant help but come and throw yourself at them. Not knowing what its rated, what you need, and who did it. Come experience The Monument, you wont regret it.
--Jesse
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Aug 19, 2007 - 07:45pm PT
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Wow, sweet looking climb.
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J. Werlin
climber
Cedaredge
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Aug 19, 2007 - 07:53pm PT
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Well the TR is not the same without one of Hillary's handstands, but a good post none the less. Nice send lads! The monument is cool--shhhhhh, be wery wery quiet, we don't want to steal any traffic away from Castleton.
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Mtnmun
Trad climber
Top of the Mountain Mun
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Aug 19, 2007 - 07:59pm PT
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These are the best TR photo's, what kind of camera are you using? You guys rock!
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wiclimber
Trad climber
devil's lake, wi
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Aug 19, 2007 - 08:30pm PT
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Bravo!!
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Aug 19, 2007 - 09:28pm PT
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Nice timing Jesse. I was just on the phone with my very first Zion climbing partner, Kevin Kelly, talking about the Bell Tower (the Kissing Couple) which, along with the Watusi we consider the best towers in the Monument.
Besides doing them together (with a tyrolean off the latter) we've done Independence together(see my old R&I photo of him) and we have repeated them numerous times. (I soloed both and beat Petefish when Sally and I were the first kissing couple on guess what. But Petefish reportedly one-upped me. Details lacking,..)
That tower is one of my all time ten best in no small part thanks to the wild finish. There aren't too many towers where the climbers sort of squirt out of the center of the summit.
I'd prefer not to explore what that metaphorically makes me though.
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Cuckawalla
Trad climber
Grand Junction, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 19, 2007 - 09:49pm PT
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Watusi is a great tower. I have done Fast Draw numerous times, without the tyrolean though. I have also done Medicine man on the back side which is my favorite route in the monument. I still think you should come down and do Angular Motion again and do some of the classics.
-jesse
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Aug 19, 2007 - 10:03pm PT
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I don't think I could do the walk off if I actually managed to do AM a third time.
It needs a rap route near Fallen Rock.
People seem to think that a tyrolean is more work, but its actually LESS if you rig it right and have two (or more climbers).
To do it solo requires three trips across. A bit more work but kind of fun at that.
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Cuckawalla
Trad climber
Grand Junction, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 19, 2007 - 10:36pm PT
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Been a lot of Activity over in Ute Canyon I am sure there is a rap there now.
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Handjam Belay
Gym climber
expat from the truth
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Aug 19, 2007 - 10:44pm PT
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I took a twenty footer in that "awesome chimney" while simulclimbing. Rope never came tight, I just lodged in like a stopper.
Nice pics!!!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Aug 20, 2007 - 12:27am PT
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sweet!
sounds like an open invite.
I'm interested in heading out that way.
Monument, Tower, and Veed
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Cuckawalla
Trad climber
Grand Junction, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 20, 2007 - 01:07am PT
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Always willing to show anyone around!
Shoot me an email if you are coming through.
--Jesse
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Nohea
Trad climber
Aiea,Hi
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Aug 20, 2007 - 04:01am PT
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Great Stuff! I am so moving to the mainland...eventually.
Aloha,
wil
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sollybonton
Trad climber
bellingham, wa
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Aug 20, 2007 - 04:26am PT
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Nice looking climb jesse, looks like your still gettin it done in the monument. Cheers.
Sol from Bellingham
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Aug 20, 2007 - 10:15am PT
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That is a really nice looking route!! Thanks for the pics.
Gotta ask...what's the story on those circle tats?
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Aug 20, 2007 - 10:22am PT
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Awesome black and whites at the beginning of this thread.
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handsome B
Gym climber
SL,UT
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Aug 20, 2007 - 11:25am PT
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sweet! thanks for the TR!
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Matt
Trad climber
always on the lookout for ed's 5.10 OW van
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Aug 20, 2007 - 11:40am PT
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nice TR-
still, i'm a bit disappointed, i waas hoping for some kissing shots.
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Cuckawalla
Trad climber
Grand Junction, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 20, 2007 - 05:58pm PT
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TWo Sausages dont make a right
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Aug 20, 2007 - 06:40pm PT
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Two sausages make a sandwich right?
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