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the Fet
Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 6, 2007 - 03:13pm PT
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I'm checking out multiple spots for a photo shoot and wondering if anyone can suggest places I may have missed, and beta for finding some of the places below.
I'm looking for big roofs or overhangs. High above the ground is a plus. Easy access is a big plus.
In Yosmite:
Seperate Reality, this is easy to find.
Heaven, I know it's on the way to Glacier Point any other beta to locate?
Owl Roof, location?
Dog's Roof, location?
Kor Roof, easy to find.
Half Dome's visor, easy to find, access- not so easy.
Here's some others, I know where these are, but good examples of what I'm looking for.
Donner Summit:
Star Walls
Lover's Leap:
Some big roofs on the East Wall
Any others?
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Couple more leap roofs:
The big top on Traveller Buttress, although it's a traverse and I don't know that anyone has free'd out it.
There are some gnar roofs on the west wall, variation finish to Vanishing Point and 3rd stone...
If you can get someone to lead 5.12 you could probably get some killer shots of Big Thunder from Corrugation corner. Never seen anyone on that thing...
Top of Dear John buttress has some .11 fist through roof finish.
Crown Royal has a fun 3' roof pull.
Eagle buttress has smaller roofs on it, but havent' done those because of the birdies.
none of those are near as big as the owl or separate reality though.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Has anyone done Free Clinic at Apathy Buttress? The topo advertizes a 25' roof crack at 11b...so it sounds like it must be perfect hands or else it would be harder! Is it?
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Yow!, I'm going to check That one out.
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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lovers leap:
third stone from the sun on west wall.
.11 offwidth out a big roof
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bonin_in_the_boneyard
Trad climber
Up the 'Creek w/out a Prada
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I've _attempted_ Karl's Overhang. The Jams are bomber until you get over the lip, and then it's kinda off-fingers. Def stout.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Also...my bf and Rob Miller did a route w/ a 25 ft? (IIRC) 11d hands roof called the "Champagne of Beers Roof" near the top of Higher Spire. (Route = "High Life") The crack is at the junction of the wall and the roof. The rest of the route is 5.10. (Or so I'm told.)
Edit: Neither of my suggestions are "easy access".
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DavisGunkie
Trad climber
Davis, CA
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what about the stuff over by the farce. there is that 5.12 "roof" over there. its not huge but youre almost full on horizontal for a move or two.
there is also that rooflet on the bolted climb to the right of surreliestic pillar
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the Fet
Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 6, 2007 - 05:23pm PT
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Thanks for the replies,
here's a photo of Karl's Overhang
Nice, and super easy access, but not very far above the ground.
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the Fet
Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 6, 2007 - 05:26pm PT
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What I'm looking for doesn't *have* to be a roof, just the more overhanging and tall the better.
e.g. here's Star Walls at Donner.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Top of the Rostrum?
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Mitch, I don't think you get too horizontal on that .12 right of the farce. All 6 of the routes over there feature fun and powerful moves to surmount that bulge, but the overhang section is pretty short. Plus, you wouldn't get much exposure for photos, as it is beneath treeline.
The bolted line with the roof right of surrealistic is Crown Royal, a very fun .10c.
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gonz
Trad climber
Yofukinsemite
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I had the largest hang over in the valley, i dunno about over hang. Its too hot to even think about climbing
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Brutus of Wyde
climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
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Some seriously overhanging stuff to the left of Banzai! on Calaveras Dome. Can be approached via Banzai then rapped...
if you tie a bunch of ropes together...
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Grand Illusion?
What's that roof near the top of the Higher Cathedral (noth face)?
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Heaven, just below the Glacier Point Railing to the East, is easy Access with a great backdrop
Peace
Karl
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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JB: Gravity Ceiling, Higher Cathedral.
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DavisGunkie
Trad climber
Davis, CA
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yea, i actually don't think the roof itself is that hard, not nearly as hard as the face.
i think Crown Royal would be nice, that was a fun sequence through that roof with some decent altitude
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Karl's is one scary on sight solo!
But that lightning bolt roof, is pretty steep too;
still, there's lot's bigger roofs out there.
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