NEW jumar design - BD product

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Messages 1 - 20 of total 23 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 20, 2007 - 02:42am PT
http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/gear/nforce.php



Discuss

P Whalen

Trad climber
CO
Apr 20, 2007 - 02:48am PT
What about it? BD makes good stuff. Sure its bomber. Wish I could afford a pair.
ADK

climber
truckee
Apr 20, 2007 - 02:50am PT
there was some talk about them on another thread. I have held them. The trigger for the cam release is much better placed than on any of the other jumars. Apparently, moving them up the rope requires releasing the cam unless there is a lot of rope beneath you. The apparent reason for this is that the teeth point straight out whereas the petzls point downward.
Lambone

Ice climber
Ashland, Or
Apr 20, 2007 - 03:04am PT
wait till after the first round of recalls.

looks over engineered to me...

like who has ever had their jug slide down the rope? I guess if it was coated in ice or something, but then you're f*#ked anyway...
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Apr 20, 2007 - 11:00am PT
This is the prior thread/post mentioning the slippage.


http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=349696&msg=349799#msg349799


I checked the BD jugs out in the store about a month ago, I didn't feel too comfortable with all the 'extra' moving parts. I've been rocking the gray jumars for awhile, and the BDs just seemed unnecessary/excessive.


Cheers

Tom
imnotclever

climber
Apr 20, 2007 - 11:16am PT
Is the cam spring loaded or do you have to keep weight on the handle to keep the cam closed?

Say you get up to the belay ledge after jugging and stand up, are you still attached to the rope or did it just open up?
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Apr 20, 2007 - 11:38am PT
most if not all ascender manufacturers make ascenders to work with big gloves (so they can be used in alpine environs). the result is a size that is overkill for sunny big wall environs (the only place you will mind me using ascenders)

it would be cool if a manufacturer made ascenders not designed for big gloves. it seems they could make them much smaller and lighter.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2007 - 11:45am PT
smaller, lighter and with a proper ergonomic fit that makes it easy to slide up rope, but also with extraordinary holding power that won't shred a rope after two seasons.

also, something not so costly. I think I paid like 60 for the pair of clogs I've got. handle is comfy, just releasing the trigger is a biter when you don't have gloves on.
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder
Apr 20, 2007 - 01:47pm PT
RE:
"it would be cool if a manufacturer made ascenders not designed for big gloves. it seems they could make them much smaller and lighter."

yes - exactly - also, one of the things I liked about the Clogs was the ability of the attachment sling (U-joint) to "float" in accordance with the attitude (vertical to horizontal) of the ascender - keeping the load on the cam pretty even.

it seems if the criteria were really analyzed, the handle design might look different (more ergonomic and downward angled kinda like a leash-less ice tool) than what we're seeing now, as well.

there is this thing in product design - it's called "what ifs" - and those are the things that produce watered down low performance products IMO.
spyork

Social climber
Land of Green Stretchy People
Apr 20, 2007 - 01:59pm PT
Not sure I like the way the body is hinged at the base and opening the cam changes the shape of the thing. Of course, if I was tied in short, I would test em ). But I like my current ascender, so no sale. All I need is more gizmos...

Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Apr 20, 2007 - 02:06pm PT
Look good, I truly hate my petzl's and my beloved Clogs (with custom Jrat sewn rigging) left in one of my first robberies.

But, what Lambone said, I'll wait a generation or two, as we all know, WE are the Quality control testors for BD!
WBraun

climber
Apr 20, 2007 - 02:12pm PT
Oh man, look at those things. They look like a Ferrari. Hot rod man.

"like who has ever had their jug slide down the rope?"

Me, of course the iced up ropes helped. Switched to prussics then.

What a weird looking jumar design that BD thing above.
Mr_T

Trad climber
Somewhere, CA
Apr 20, 2007 - 02:20pm PT
One possible drawback, only one carabiner hole on the bottom (as a result of design).
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder
Apr 20, 2007 - 02:33pm PT
RE:
" One possible drawback, only one carabiner hole on the bottom (as a result of design)."

I'm just a dweeb but like to analyze from - I hope - a real-world perspective and it seems like the sling on the Clog and the U-joint effect it provides (like a Jumar attachment) is pretty cool...
handsome B

Gym climber
SL,UT
Apr 20, 2007 - 02:38pm PT
They are pretty sweet.
No, you don't need any more rope below you for them to move compared to other ascenders.
The single carabiner hole at the bottom is big enough for a locking mechanism to fully rotate through. Petzls cannot do this.
The hinge is designed to put more force on the rope. A good thing.

Try them out, you will like them.
Nefarius

Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
Apr 20, 2007 - 02:38pm PT
Wow! Hot rod is right, Werner! Those things look crazy and way over-engineered.

Some that are not built oversize for thick gloves would also be good too, as Chris already stated.

"Apparently, moving them up the rope requires releasing the cam unless there is a lot of rope beneath you."

Ummm... this has kinda been my experience with jugs, in general. I've been using petzl, for years (can you still get clogs, I'd be willing to check out something new) and with those, unless there is a fair amount of rope beneath you, you need to slightly release the cam a bit on each up-stroke.
tooth

Mountain climber
B.C.
Apr 20, 2007 - 02:46pm PT
In addition to what I said about the slippage of these nForce ascenders in the other thread...

I was jugging on a couple different 10.5mm ropes, they do have a spring on them keeping everything tight to the rope, so when you stand up on a ledge, they stay on the rope.

Another suggestion earlier in this thread, I think it would be perfect to re-design these for summer walls with a much more horizontal and bigger handle, I think changing the angle of the handle would fix the slippage problem.

I'm sure more people will be able to add more to this slipping thing, it wasn't a huge problem, they always caught again, but on both free-hanging and slabby stuff they did it, just didn't catch at first because the handle wasn't pulled back and away from the rope as much as it needed to in order to rotate the teeth into the rope.

I'm dead sure that once you got a dozen pitches under your belt with these jumars you could figure out how eliminate the slipping without thinking about it.

If I had to buy new ones, I probably would BD's. Black Diamond is American, they seem to be concerned about the climbing community, (KP has answered my and many other people's questions on gear integrity on their site) and their new $60 ICON headlamp is better than my $1100 headlamp for um... dentistry believe it or not. I even know another dentist who has a cosmetic dentistry practice in Beverly Hills who uses the 3w LED headlamp.

I can't wait till they come out with a 5w with a belt battery pack to try.

feelio Babar

Trad climber
Sneaking up behind you...
Apr 20, 2007 - 02:51pm PT
yes Black Diamond is American..

...but most of their soft gear is made in (gasp!) China!

The Horror!
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2007 - 06:46pm PT
Raydog, right on the money on what I was thinking on ergodesign.

Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder
Apr 20, 2007 - 08:11pm PT
hey mungeclimber - or anyone -

if you can send me or post some good straight on pics of the Clog ascender (laying down on it's side, not much shadow, white background) - I'll chop-em up in Photoshop and re-draw/re-design sections with Illustrator -

then post the samples for feedback,

then re-design/re-draw according to the feedback from the group -

we'll design our dream ascender right here on the ST -

(if they have a sling on 'em move sling onto metal frame - away from plastic grip for photo)

it'll be fun!

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