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Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 28, 2007 - 11:00pm PT
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This was passed on to me by Sam Lightner, Jr.
OK Gang, Please Read this:
As we all know, a much-publicized climb in the spring of 2006 raised public interest and concern about rock climbing in Arches National Park. Prior to this event, Arches managers had limited contact with climbers and felt no real need for official policies. However, an overwhelming number of letters calling for an outright ban on climbing forced the Park to impose serious restrictions on our sport. Since then, a group of local climbers and the Access Fund have been working with the Park to rehabilitate a good relationship between us.
The Park Service has decided it is time to make an official Climbing Management Plan. This plan could be great for us, or it could be our demise: the key is how we help them make the plan. They are currently seeking input into how the plan should be. If the events of Spring, 2006 were any indicator, an enormous number of letters from environmental groups and anti-climbers will be sent to the Park Service calling for a ban or some draconian restrictions. However, The Park managers will be willing to look at all sides. As a matter of fact, they have shown local climbers that they are willing to work with climbers provided they see a positive result.
That said, it is up to us to send positive letters about the sport. If you have ever climbed in Arches, you should tell them so and tell them you enjoyed it. If you ever want to climb on the unique towers in Arches, you should tell them so. We need to show them that we really do care about the policies and that we want to be able to climb in Arches. We also need to point out that the outright ban on fixed anchors prevents the ascent of the majority of spires and towers (no pitons = no aid). I think most of us would admit we don’t feel a need to climb up on the actual arches, so we should state that. Above all, we need to write positive letters endorsing climbing as a legitimate form of recreation in Arches National Park.
Its easy to write them a short note. If you want to do it online, go to this website: http://parkplanning.nps.gov
At the bottom of the page, pull down the menu and go to “Arches NP”, then click “Plans/Documents open for comment”. The top one is about climbing management. Click
“Comment on Document” and write your small letter. That’s it.
If you want to write out a paper letter, you can send it here:
Superintendent
Arches National Park
PO Box 907
Moab, UT 84532
Here are a few things to keep in mind:
1. The BLM asked for this same sort of input a couple years ago in reference to Indian Creek. They truly wanted to know who the users were, but in the initial round of discussions comments they only received around 30 letters from climbers… they got over 600 from 4wheelers. That’s pathetic… lets not let it happen here. (FYI-climbers got on it in the second round and we were factored in, showing that your opinions can make a difference).
2. Arches National Park is grouped with 3 other Parks in its administration. Many of the rules that govern one Park eventually fall into the rule book for the one next door. In this case, Canyonlands, an area containing more Windgate and Cutler towers than the rest of the world combined, is next door. A draconian rule in Arches could eventually lead to one in Canyonlands. If that’s the case, it would look like a precedent for other Parks in the country to follow. The trickle-down effect could be seen with the BLM and Forest Service. In other words, we could lose a lot more climbing resources than the 76,000 acre’s and 100’s of towers that is Arches.
3. Writing a letter to the Park will take less time than we spend blurbing in online forums.
4. They really do want to hear from us. I know this for a fact, and I know they will listen to positive words we have to say.
5. If we don’t ask for permission, we can’t get mad when we don’t get it.
For additional information contact jason@accessfund.org.
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L
climber
The Rebel L Gang
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Mar 28, 2007 - 11:04pm PT
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Thanks for posting this, Chris. I'll send a letter right now.
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John Moosie
climber
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Mar 29, 2007 - 04:19pm PT
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Needs to be on the front page longer.
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samg
Sport climber
SLC
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Mar 29, 2007 - 06:06pm PT
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I will also be sending a letter, thanks for the post.
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Lost Arrow
Trad climber
The North Ridge of the San Fernando
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Mar 29, 2007 - 06:15pm PT
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Can we trade no climbing at Arches for climbing at Williamson Rock?
Jeff
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tomtom
Social climber
Seattle, Wa
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Mar 29, 2007 - 06:26pm PT
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THANK YOU DEAN POTTER!
You and Steph are the greatest.
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Donny... the OHHH!- Riginal
Sport climber
Boald'r Effin See Oh
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Mar 29, 2007 - 06:35pm PT
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I never heard anything about this (maybe 'cause most of my time is spent porning) but now that I have, I'd like to make it formally know that I AM GOING TO KICK DEAN POTTER'S ASS. Yeah....you heard me Dean. What were you thinkin'??....you're goin' down.
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bwancy1
Trad climber
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Mar 29, 2007 - 07:25pm PT
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Done.
edit: (The letter, not kicking DP's ass)
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Forest
Trad climber
Tucson, AZ
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Mar 29, 2007 - 07:36pm PT
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done
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Sam Lightner, Jr
Social climber
WY
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Mar 29, 2007 - 08:28pm PT
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Hey
I forwarded this to Chris last night... He knows I'm a A.F. Board Member, so he assumed its from the Access Fund. Its actually straight from me and not the Access Fund... I can't speak for the whole organization.
Lets say I speak for the ATF, the Arches Task Force.
Thanks everyone for helping out... the fallout from this thing has huge ramifications.
Sam
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L
climber
The Rebel L Gang
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Mar 30, 2007 - 12:08pm PT
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Donny--I'm beginning to see a wonderful side to that Slimy-Alien-Creature-Head personality of yours. Thanks for your awesome sense of humor.
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Tomcat
Trad climber
Chatham N.H.
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Mar 30, 2007 - 12:08pm PT
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Never thought I would be the one to say this sort of thing,but maybe we should stay out of Arches.Most of it is Entrada Sandstone(I think).I have not climbed in Arches,but on Wall Street,Long Canyon,Gunsmoke Buttress,Indian Creek.
I am a lifelong climber,30 years.We climbers,unlike almost any other user group,seem to think all cliffs are for our amusement,and by and large we are tolerated as such almost everywhere.We are not good stewards as a whole.We bring endless streams of dogs,dog sh#t,bum wad,tape,butts,boom boxes and leave chalk and rap slings everywhere we go,mostly white chalk and brightly colored slings.Cliffs are just for us.What other user group leaves so much litter?Drinkers?
There are miles and miles of rock in Moab.If Arches were somewhere else that did not have a cliff for climbing,maintaining access would be,to my eye,more critical.It seems though that Long Canyon has as many GOOD quality climbs as Arches,on more appropriate rock.I'm not sure climbers presence in Arches does not do us more harm than good in the big picture.What I mean is Joe Winnibago is going in to Arches and they are going to walk in to Delicate.They probably won't get out of the car at the Creek,and if they go down the Potash Road it's likely they want to see climbers.Ramming our sport down their throats might work against that.
Of climbable rock in that area is Arches 1% ? Dean's actions were incredibly selfish.Sponsered climbers gotta stay in the limelight.
Half the routes in these areas,at least, have perfectly good climbable pitches above the first that are rarely climbed because we climbers are too lazy.
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jstan
climber
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Mar 30, 2007 - 05:54pm PT
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Done.
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Mar 30, 2007 - 06:29pm PT
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I posted this link to the SCC message board.
Let's spread it around the country.
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YetAnotherDave
Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
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Mar 30, 2007 - 10:26pm PT
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bump, and off I go to post this elsewhere...
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Tahoe climber
Trad climber
a dark-green forester out west
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Mar 30, 2007 - 10:29pm PT
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bump -
disagree with guy who says we shouldn't be there
will be writing a letter today
-Aaron
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piquaclimber
Trad climber
Durango
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Mar 30, 2007 - 10:33pm PT
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Tomcat,
I have to respectfully disagree with the notion that it's time to close Arches climbing off altogether. That seems like a knee-jerk reaction to the problem of climber/public relations and soft rock longevity. More importantly, that would set a bad precedent for future access-related issues in all national parks.
you also said...
"We bring endless streams of dogs,dog sh#t,bum wad,tape,butts,boom boxes and leave chalk and rap slings everywhere we go,mostly white chalk and brightly colored slings.Cliffs are just for us.What other user group leaves so much litter?Drinkers?"
I don't think that is a fair assessment of the Arches climbing community.
I'm not saying that none of these things have ever happened, but I believe that 99% of people that come to Arches to climb are very conscious of being in such a beautiful place and do their best to leave no trace.
Brad
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Robert
Trad climber
San Mateo, CA
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Mar 31, 2007 - 02:22am PT
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I have climbed a few times at Arches in the past, last time about 3 years ago. Just got Chris M's newsletter. I hadn't heard of the Dean Potter saga of free soloing Delicate Arch. (I now live in South Africa, with superb climbing btw). I will submit something to the NPS, but if nothing else Dean's story makes for interesting reading:
http://outside.away.com/outside/features/200606/dean-potter-delicate-arch-climb-1.html
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John Moosie
climber
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Mar 31, 2007 - 05:03am PT
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" What other user group leaves so much litter?Drinkers? "
How about 4 wheelers, swimmers, hikers, people who eat green jello, winnebego owners, aliens from mars, church groups ( yes..I said church groups... I live in a national park and I see all kinds of litterers. ) people with tattoos of fairies, sunday drivers,( fishermen some of the worst offenders) dog owners, cowboys, anyone with blue eyes........hunters, cat lovers, midgets, people who only go to gyms on tuesdays. overweight marathoners. ( they are the worst because they are always dropping their water bottles ) somebody please stop me............ahhhhhhhhhhhh....Sorry.
You get my point. I don't know who you hang with but the climbers I know are more likely to pick up others litter then they are to leave it. Evidence the spring cleanup here in Yosemite. Maybe we just have a higher standard here. But the climbers I know don't litter. They tend to be very conscious of their impact. There are certainly those who wreck it for the rest, but for the most part climbers seem to be conscious stewards. In part I think because to learn, you usually find someone older and more experienced and they mentor you. Part of that mentoring is stewardship. That gets past along from generation to generation.
I understand that you are talking about things like webbing. But I have a unique perspective. I live in a climbing mecca. I don't climb very much. I like to hike and backpack. Most of my friends are climbers. I have hiked all over many parks and until I met climbers, I didn't know yall left webbing on the rock. Because unless you know its there, you don't really see it. I have never climbed in Arches, but I have hiked there and I can tell you flat out, I did not notice any evidence of climbing being done. And for me, a 10 to 20 mile jaunt is a blast, so I have seen a lot of country. Just saying man... Bolts and webbing just aren't that noticable compared to coke bottles, cigarette butts, kleenex tissue, beer cans, dorrito bags, condoms, (yep, condoms, I have seen them at the local swimming holes) shoes, ( people leave the weirdest stuff all over the place ) fast food containers, plastic knifes and forks, green jello containers ( those damn groups of green jello eaters) parts off spaceships, girdles, ( someone decided to live free) a rowboat with a hole in it. (I kid you knott, this was found at the top of a mountain that only a serious 4 wheel drive could get to) wine bottles, newspapers, magazines, used airline tickets, hubcaps, ( five miles from the nearest road , what the? )
Okay, end rant.....sorry, just couldn't sleep.....I hope that you understand.
Moosie
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