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Tired Trad Tales
Trad climber
southern cal
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 20, 2006 - 11:16am PT
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I was wondering if people still put up climbs in this manner or did that die with my EBs?
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andanother
climber
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Nov 20, 2006 - 11:45am PT
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I'm not sure i understand the question.
I've seen a lot of people making new routes at my gym, and they always start at the bottom and go up.
Do other people do it differently?
If not ground up, how will you know where to put the holds?
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lamadera
Trad climber
New Mexico
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Nov 20, 2006 - 12:00pm PT
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Yes, we did a 6 pitch .12a ground up with a hand drill. Took all summer to get it done. PITA, but a great experience.
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WoodySt
Trad climber
Riverside
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Nov 20, 2006 - 12:11pm PT
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Locker and I have put up five "ground up" routes so far in the last year. It's the reason I've been bleeding a lot. They're all 5.9+ to 10C/D I also have a 10B/X with another partner. There are plenty of GU routes being done.
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Nov 20, 2006 - 12:17pm PT
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The prevailing ethic at Pinnacles National Monument is GU and there are over 800 known routes there. Drilling 3/8" bolts on lead was never so much fun.
Bruce
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Nov 20, 2006 - 12:27pm PT
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Sure, lots of people. We did a bunch this summer, all ground up, all hand drilled, although all short (not more than 4 pitches). Sketchy stances, dicey hooks, yeehaw! Many of the new routes at some sport areas like Owens go in ground up (with power drills of course!). Of the areas I'm familiar with - Sierra granite, Valley, Tuolumne, Red Rocks, Owens, J Tree, Pinnacles, even Alabama Hills - all have a good number of the new routes (even a majority) going in ground-up.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Nov 20, 2006 - 12:38pm PT
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I partcipated in a whole bunch (>5) route FA's this year with Eric, all of them ground up.. some of them went without bolts.
Not only are there routes out there to do, there are routes out there to do which are natural lines requiring no bolts!
I don't think I would do a rap bolted route... probably because I couldn't climb it afterwards.
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ablegabel
Trad climber
Livermore,Ca.
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Nov 20, 2006 - 01:19pm PT
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Was there some other way to put up a route that I'm unaware of ?
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Nov 20, 2006 - 01:32pm PT
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I think some of the ground uppers got ground up into hamburger?
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bob d'antonio
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Nov 20, 2006 - 01:41pm PT
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Who Cares???
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vegastradguy
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV
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Nov 20, 2006 - 01:45pm PT
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every FA i've done has been ground up- and a good chunk of the new lines in RR (trad, anyway) are being done that way.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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Nov 20, 2006 - 01:52pm PT
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I did a few this season GU. Good times.
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hardman
Trad climber
love the eastern sierras
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Nov 20, 2006 - 02:50pm PT
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figures the bird brain roid rage rap bolter said "who cares???"
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Nov 20, 2006 - 02:56pm PT
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I REALLY hate to say this, but the true test of a good sport route is not whether it was GU or rap bolted, or however it was bolted, but how good the route is.
Finding a stance to bolt from is great, but you really are not going to find too many of those when climbing upside down, for instance.
Different animal, not adventure, but still good in it's own way.
AND it keeps Crimpergirl off the streets, LOL!
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Nov 20, 2006 - 03:00pm PT
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I partook.
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jackass
climber
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Nov 20, 2006 - 03:58pm PT
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I just have to ask...
Some of you make an extra point to say that your ground up route was done with a hand drill. Why in the hell would you use a hand drill unless you were in a wilderness/national park setting? It's like saying that you sewed your harness by hand... why would you do that?
If it takes an hour to drill a hole vs. 6 minutes, plus the fact that a drill is going to do a better job, then why use a hand drill? Is it better ethically somehow? Does it make your route more pure?
Seems like wasted energy and time to me, but to each his own... I am just wondering.
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mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
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Nov 20, 2006 - 04:41pm PT
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Nate, Jerry and myself did a few this summer, ranging from 5.7 to 5.10.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Nov 20, 2006 - 05:05pm PT
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Who Cares???
I do. I still put them up the same way - ground up, no previewing, no pre-cleaning, no pre-placing pro, no dogging. I don't know you other than through you're posts Bob, but I guess I'm a bit surprised to hear this from you, don't know why offhand...
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lamadera
Trad climber
New Mexico
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Nov 20, 2006 - 05:11pm PT
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Jackass, our local trad area is wilderness. We have no choice. If I had a choice I would consider the power drill. The hand drill definitely adds to the adventure/pucker factor though.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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Nov 20, 2006 - 05:37pm PT
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if you don't have to drill a lot of bolts, then a hand drill is a lot lighter for back country routes whether wilderness or not.
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