Discussion Topic |
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clustiere
Trad climber
Durango, CO
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 29, 2006 - 09:47am PT
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Now I am lucky enough to live near indian creek so It is hard to say, but I will list a few considering the few i have done. Prefrence should be those you have done clean. Pictures if you got em.
Increadible Hand Crack
Super Crack
Pente
King Cat
Johnny Cat
Triassic Sands RR
Said and Done to Reunion (granite mtn)
need to check the log surely more to come, will attempt to post some pictures too.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Sep 29, 2006 - 10:09am PT
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Third pitch finger crack of Reunion at Granite Mountain...awesome!
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Trashman
Trad climber
SLC
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Sep 29, 2006 - 10:17am PT
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Excuse Station
Exasperator
Reed's Regular
Coyne(any of them)
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Sep 29, 2006 - 10:20am PT
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Nine Lives
The upper part of Deseret Moon
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d-know
Trad climber
electric lady land
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Sep 29, 2006 - 10:20am PT
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is a splitter also a corner?
i say no.
i'd even say you can't lieback a splitter.
well you could, but that would be bad form.
i.c. splitters: excuse station, slice and dice, optimator (mostly splitter), nine lives,
supercat, sacred cow (killer splitter finish).
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vegastradguy
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV
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Sep 29, 2006 - 10:25am PT
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The Fox, RR
Our Father, RR
Sons of Yesterday, Yosemite
Yin and Yang, RR
Atman, RR
Red Zinger, RR (haven't done this one, but it looks incredible)
I'll also agree on Reeds and Triassic, both are beautiful and excellent climbing.
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Sep 29, 2006 - 11:19am PT
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mmm splitter....[/Homer]
I agree yin and yang is pretty cool, as is Atman.
shot courtesy of the brother
I'm also sucker the local stuff....
Spare Rib, Gallatin Canyon
this splitter got a bit too wide for me.....
^another from the brother...
cheers,
Tom
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nate
Trad climber
virginia
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Sep 29, 2006 - 11:35am PT
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Atman - splitters have to be more than 15 feet.
How about east coast splitters.
Shredded Wheat -rumbling bald
The The- old rag
Strawberry fields - old rag
Genocide - NRG
Leave it to jesus - (not really but sweet) nrg
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noshoesnoshirt
climber
hither and yon
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Sep 29, 2006 - 11:36am PT
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Ummm, your mother?
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handsome B
Gym climber
SL,UT
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Sep 29, 2006 - 11:42am PT
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City of Rocks, ID
Southern Utah
Red Rocks, NV
Fine Jade, Moab, UT
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Sep 29, 2006 - 11:51am PT
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few more from RR
Moab area...
The City
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Sep 29, 2006 - 12:05pm PT
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This is the best splitter I've done lately, anyway. Thomas Boesgaard took the photo, on a fine seaside climb at Kullen.
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G_Gnome
Boulder climber
Sick Midget Land
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Sep 29, 2006 - 12:34pm PT
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There was this perfect 1 to 1 1/2 inch perfect 5.10 splitter I once did in Icebox or one of the those canyons at Redrocks. It is probably the only place I left a cam to get down. I needed about 10 cams all in that size range and only came with 4. I kept climbing down and cleaning and going back up and leading some more. I finally gave up and lowered off leaving a cam. Sweet route but I was totally unprepared.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Sep 29, 2006 - 12:47pm PT
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Face can be fine, and corners can be cool,
But splitters are supreme, and that's my golden rule.
Found a little crack now called Touchstone my first year in the desert. That was all she wrote. Hooked for life. No cure.
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Trashman
Trad climber
SLC
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Sep 29, 2006 - 01:12pm PT
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i'd love to see a stiched together photo of touchstone like the fine jade one above. gotta be one of the longest continuous cracks i've ever climbed.
edit: not great, definately not what i was looking for, but it'll have to do for now
hB edit:corner DAB, don't make mike come in here and define splitter for you again
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handsome B
Gym climber
SL,UT
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Sep 29, 2006 - 01:16pm PT
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As far as splitters go, nothing, and I mean nothing, compares to Moonlight Buttress.
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handsome B
Gym climber
SL,UT
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Sep 29, 2006 - 01:52pm PT
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i.e: Corner Dab
Only the crux is a corner. Above the crux lies a 210 foot uninterrupted purple camalot splitter in black sandstone.
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Trashman
Trad climber
SLC
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Sep 29, 2006 - 02:06pm PT
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i know, just hoping to draw you out into posting some photos.
here's one from Climbing's website
edit: it's really sad how few pics i have of climbing, just went through a collection, and all i had were bouldering shots
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murcy
climber
san francisco
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Sep 29, 2006 - 02:22pm PT
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I love that stitched shot, Handsome B. A SuperDuperTopo would have them for every route.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Sep 29, 2006 - 02:22pm PT
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All spitters are sweet.
Some that haven't been mentioned:
Manana
The Stovelegs
Generator Crack
Sacherer Cracker
Scarface
It seemed like most of what I climbed in IC was in a corner.
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emac
Trad climber
New Hampshire
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Sep 29, 2006 - 02:55pm PT
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Reppy's Crack on Cannon Mt., NH is quite good. I really liked Serenity Crack in Yosemite too, and Strawberry Fields at Old Rag, VA.
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The Randy One
Trad climber
Denver
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Sep 29, 2006 - 03:09pm PT
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I heard El Cap (not to mention the Valley in general) has some decent splitter cracks....
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yo
climber
The Eye of the Snail
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Sep 29, 2006 - 03:24pm PT
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Shield.
Touchstone looks like it's 3 pitches long in that pic.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Sep 29, 2006 - 03:28pm PT
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I think with 70m ropes you could do the crack in 3 or 4.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Sep 29, 2006 - 03:33pm PT
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The Mussman sending Spiderman (Conan's Corridor)
at JT last weekend...
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Sep 29, 2006 - 03:42pm PT
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My favorite hand crack in the Valley - 140' of fun. Extra points if you can name this climb.
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yo
climber
The Eye of the Snail
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Sep 29, 2006 - 03:47pm PT
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haha, people only do 3 pitches these days anyway, Ron.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Sep 29, 2006 - 03:58pm PT
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Where is that, Clint? Looks beautiful.
There's ~300 feet of hand crack on Silent Line, IIRC.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Sep 29, 2006 - 04:01pm PT
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phuqin anklebiters!
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slobmonster
Trad climber
berkeley, ca
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Sep 29, 2006 - 04:07pm PT
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P1 Wall of the Worlds, Calaveras Dome
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snakefoot
climber
cali
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Sep 29, 2006 - 04:11pm PT
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one of the classics, Bachar Cracker
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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Sep 29, 2006 - 06:08pm PT
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Stove Legs?
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ha-ha
climber
location
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Sep 29, 2006 - 06:20pm PT
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left crack
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scuffy b
climber
The town that Nature forgot to hate
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Sep 29, 2006 - 06:21pm PT
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Hey Handsome B and TKingsbury,
I'm suffering from brain fart or somethin in addition to my
normal inability to recognize things I've seen a lot.
What are those two climbs at City of Rocks?
Thanks
sm
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Sep 29, 2006 - 06:26pm PT
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That City route is Funky Bolt, not sure but I think Handsome B's shot might be the same route, but lower...is that correct?
Tom
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WC
Trad climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Sep 29, 2006 - 06:32pm PT
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Ultimate Finger Crack - Sedona
The Prow - Paradise Forks
Middle Trinity - The Overlook
P3 of West Crack - TM
Beeline - Cochise Stronghold
How do you post pictures?
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scuffy b
climber
The town that Nature forgot to hate
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Sep 29, 2006 - 06:37pm PT
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Thanks, Tom. I've only done that climb maybe 3 times, probably
looked at it on 50 or so different occasions. I can see now that
your shot is at the stemmy part that gives folks trouble
sometimes. A couple of the climbs to the left have some of the
purest friction moves I've ever seen.
sm
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WBraun
climber
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Sep 29, 2006 - 06:53pm PT
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Clint
In your splitter crack photo above the crack on the left was the variation I put up. A something 5.11+ rating, whatever that means.
Anyways your photo shows the second pitch of Hotline. The classic 5.10 hand crack.
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handsome B
Gym climber
SL,UT
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Sep 29, 2006 - 07:23pm PT
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Scruffy,
TK is right, it's "Funky Bolt" in the City of Rocks.
Here is a shot of the one, of many, scary clips on those friction climbs.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Sep 29, 2006 - 07:32pm PT
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The hand crack on Hot Line ain't bad, nor is the last pitch of the Gripper, Stoverlegs (for location), Cream, and on and on ...
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Sep 29, 2006 - 09:13pm PT
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Werner, that left 5.11+ version of p2 looks nice. Not to mention the cool roof you did up higher, left of the bombay! That has got to be the true hard man way, as if the route was not already hard. I'm unworthy - I've kind of given up on doing the start of the crux of the 5.12a, where the crack narrows from thin hands to fingers. I just can't seem to stick there! So I have resorted to just yarding through there, to get to the pitches above. But it looks so good I would sure love to get in shape to be able to free it. I like the idea of doing it all in one 60m pitch, too - I've been still belaying at the old spot above the roof.
Joe, thanks for the new ASCA bolts - very nice. I saw those 2 bolts you described, last Sunday. I guess they are closer together than the recommended "14 bolt diameters". Although in that super rock quality, I doubt they'll fail. With the other 2 bolts and the good gear, at least it's safe. I suppose they were put close to minimize the number of chain links, which is not a bad idea if it's strong enough.
I'm a "creature of habit" and I still rap off the right side. I saw a bit of cut-off rope in the hand crack just below the top of pitch 2 - I'd say there is some risk of a rap rope getting stuck. Not much for the rap rope to hang up on, with the right side raps - I do them from the top of Nightmare, because I still haven't been ready to tackle the 5.10d bombay. I noticed some more features on it this time, so maybe next time I'll give it a go.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Sep 29, 2006 - 09:21pm PT
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"Is a splitter also a corner?"
No, never.
"I'd even say you can't lieback a splitter."
Check out Coyne crack any green weekend.
Handsome B, great jade montage! thanks,
-but why is that guy above that a ways face climbing a splitter?
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Michael Hjorth
Trad climber
Copenhagen, Denmark
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Sep 30, 2006 - 07:18am PT
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Hi Chiloe,
Nice to see a photo from my homecrag, Kullen. Sorry I couldn't join you on your recent visit. But as I am possibly the person who has climbed this specific route the most (200+ times; up, down, in wellies, at night, solo) I think I can say with some weight that it does not compare to the others splitters on this tread. Even if it's called Fingerjam, it can easily be faceclimbed. And it's just 30 feet!
But again: Nice to see it on this excellent site!
Call me should you ever get to Copenhagen again.
Regards
Michael
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Sep 30, 2006 - 03:25pm PT
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Michael Hjorth:
But as I am possibly the person who has climbed this specific route the most (200+ times; up, down, in wellies, at night, solo) I think I can say with some weight that it does not compare to the others splitters on this tread. Even if it's called Fingerjam, it can easily be faceclimbed. And it's just 30 feet!
Heh, that’s why the fine print said “This is the best splitter I've done lately, anyway.”
Here’s a story about a splitter somewhere else:
http://pubpages.unh.edu/~lch/gunsmoke2.htm
And here’s some found humor, when we hiked out to one that looked cool from the road:
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Pennsylenvy
Gym climber
A dingy corner in your refrigerator
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Oct 11, 2010 - 01:44am PT
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Chiloe to the humor rescue. Found this linked to another topo thread. When life gives you lemons...............
Is that the 'famed' midget chimney crack?
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nutjob
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
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Oct 11, 2010 - 03:39am PT
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Didn't get it all clean:
And the start of this almost split my fingers off, so that's a kind of splitter:
Here's scuffy's butt on a serious splitter:
and another one:
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Oct 11, 2010 - 07:06am PT
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pyrosis
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Oct 11, 2010 - 08:13am PT
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Woah, now that's a nice looking gym crack! Bad ass.
A few memorable splitters...
Blue Sun
Jolly Rancher
Supercrack
Crack Attack
Johnny Cat
3rd pitch of gripper
Blues Riff
Direct Northwest on Lembert
Robbins Crack and Jaws on Mt Woodson
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Justin DuBois
Trad climber
estes park co
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Oct 11, 2010 - 10:33am PT
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No mention of any number of routes at Devil's Tower? wheres the love ST?
Bloodgaurd 5.12- =epic splitter!
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Nkane
Trad climber
New York, NY
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Oct 11, 2010 - 11:46am PT
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Breakfast of Champions: Harder than it looks.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Oct 11, 2010 - 09:45pm PT
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Pennsylenvy:
Is that the 'famed' midget chimney crack?
The famed Beetlejuice Body Jam, I think. It's some chalkless crack so obscure that Beetlejuice was still in the same position when we came back a year later. We moved him to the top so he'd feel better about life.
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nutjob
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
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Oct 11, 2010 - 09:58pm PT
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Midget Chimney!
Calling le_bruce, it's about that time of the year for a rematch....
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enjoimx
Trad climber
SLO Cal
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Oct 11, 2010 - 10:35pm PT
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Reeds direct is not splitter. It is cool though.
Nutjob, nice pic of Midterm. Now thats a splitter!!
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squatch
Boulder climber
santa cruz, CA
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Oct 11, 2010 - 10:55pm PT
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i agree, Reeds is not what i would consider splitter, but it is very good.
here is my rendition of why i consider reeds not so splitter, WARNING: image not to scale or color, and the top only slightly reflects the nature of the climb.
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Pennsylenvy
Gym climber
A dingy corner in your refrigerator
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Oct 12, 2010 - 01:02am PT
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O.K. all. But I'm still trolling for the riddle of the 'midget chimney'. At this point I will give clues very fast. Such as state of the union. Posters here/on this thread whom I know have done this route.
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Pennsylenvy
Gym climber
A dingy corner in your refrigerator
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Oct 12, 2010 - 01:04am PT
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It's either in CA, UT, AZ,NV or "C B for all you truckers"
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Pennsylenvy
Gym climber
A dingy corner in your refrigerator
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Oct 12, 2010 - 01:04am PT
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Think Midget Chimney...............
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Oct 12, 2010 - 01:14am PT
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McCarthy West Face Free Variation is the same crack from top to bottom on 550ft of sweet crack of about every variation from hands, to stem box to offidth, to thin fingers., to overhanging chimney.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Oct 12, 2010 - 01:25am PT
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Jim McCarthy and Sandy Bill on the FA of THE Splitter to End All Splitters- The Lotus Flower Tower!
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Oct 12, 2010 - 02:20am PT
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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A few handy splitters.
A splitter in my head.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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How about these ones?
Kaukulator
Blind Faith
Chingando
Steppin' Out
Enema
Cobra Crack
High Plains Drifter
Split Pillar Left Side
Yosemite Pinnacle
Ditto for;
Outer Space
Butterballs
Fingerlickin
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Here's a splitter that is for many a spitter as well...
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EdBannister
Mountain climber
13,000 feet
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I saw the phrase splitter crack, and was on my way to post Lotus Flower Tower, when I go to the last page, and see Mr. Grossman has rightly posted.
and one thinks of...
moab
and thin ice
and....
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
wussing off the topout on Roadside Attraction
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Hey, how 'bout that outside-the-window-flake fingers job on the RNWF of Half Dome?
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Feb 13, 2013 - 10:51pm PT
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Solid thread.
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gonzo chemist
climber
Fort Collins, CO
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Feb 14, 2013 - 11:56am PT
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Anybody on here got recommendations of classic splitters in Freemont Canyon (WY)?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 14, 2013 - 12:57pm PT
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I can't remember if it's splitter or offset but 'Of wine and Roses' is a classic crack climb!
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Feb 14, 2013 - 01:00pm PT
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Kris,
What/where is that last climb? Looks kinda like Needles? Davy Jones Locker?
West side sierra?
Looks Nice!
 Luke
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Feb 14, 2013 - 02:57pm PT
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What about Sphinx Crack in Sphinx Park, Colorado? S. Plate area. I know it's a perfect splitter because it was dynamited. Is it still in a No Trespassing zone?
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Feb 14, 2013 - 03:01pm PT
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gonzo chemist
climber
Fort Collins, CO
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Feb 14, 2013 - 03:10pm PT
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Bruce,
Sphinx Crack is still definitely a no trespassing zone. A few other areas in the S. Platte have lost access in recent years as well. For instance, Squat Rock was closed a few years ago. That was where I led my very first 5.9 traditional route.
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briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
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Feb 14, 2013 - 03:13pm PT
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not the best shot of JoJo but if you've been on it....you know
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gonzo chemist
climber
Fort Collins, CO
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Feb 14, 2013 - 03:14pm PT
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A little more South Platte:
Scorpio Crack (5.10+). I think this thing is slightly overhanging the whole way (fingers and thin hands). Haven't made it there yet to climb it, though.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Feb 14, 2013 - 04:50pm PT
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"Scorpio Crack" (5.10+) you say? Looks like a perfect hang-dog moan fest if you bring along enough cams to hang on. In any event, an athletic tour-de-force.
Thanks for posting. Thinking about a Colorado holiday this April. Where is "Scorpio" in the Platte exactly? Near Sphinx Park?
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chill
climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
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Feb 14, 2013 - 06:21pm PT
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Where is "Scorpio" in the Platte exactly? Near Sphinx Park? Scorpio is outside of Woodland Park, off of Rampart Range Road. A little grainy but still classic. 5.10 fingers at the start and then hands to the top, slightly overhanging.
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RP3
Big Wall climber
El Portal/Chapel Hill
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Feb 14, 2013 - 06:39pm PT
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I've always been partial to Mr Natural!
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Alexey
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Feb 14, 2013 - 06:43pm PT
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on this tread there a lot of cool corners, but they are not under splitter category ..
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Charlie B
Social climber
Santa Rosa, Ca
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Feb 14, 2013 - 07:39pm PT
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Clint - That pitch is amazing! Did anyone get it?
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Sep 25, 2013 - 04:35pm PT
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Bump for splitters!
Bad Cat
Double Bock
Luke
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Sep 25, 2013 - 06:26pm PT
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Love Mr Natural, haven't been on it since that guy got killed by the rockfall over there on Apron Jam though.
Trout:
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JustThatEasy
climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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Sep 25, 2013 - 10:34pm PT
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Equinox.
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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Sep 25, 2013 - 11:07pm PT
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 24, 2018 - 09:29pm PT
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Bump for the bizness...
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Mar 25, 2018 - 07:27am PT
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A fun, moderate splitter....Neat on the Optimator Wall.
Yo Steve G. thanks for the pitons!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Mar 25, 2018 - 08:13am PT
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Greg Crouch negotiating a nice splitter on a FA in Patagonia.
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yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
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Mar 25, 2018 - 09:25am PT
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Not really the best splitter crack, but a recent picture of the opening half of a cool pitch (red and yellow camalots) on a nice climb.
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F
climber
away from the ground
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Mar 25, 2018 - 09:29am PT
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^^^ Is that Frey? Looks familiar for some reason...
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yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
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Mar 25, 2018 - 09:39am PT
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That's right, F. It's on the Pirimidal.
Edit to add: In case you don't remember, this one:
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 25, 2018 - 09:55am PT
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For a fistful of blades you are welcome Maestro Donini!
Happy globetrotting rap anchor building wherever you find the need.
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F
climber
away from the ground
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Mar 25, 2018 - 10:22am PT
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Yanqui- Thanks. I thought there was a reason it looked so familiar, I’ve done that route. Can’t remember the name, or formation, but the lines... I always remember a sexy crack.
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Send
Trad climber
Central Sierra
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Mar 25, 2018 - 11:37am PT
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Dan McDevitt
Social climber
tioga cliff or fifi buttress
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Mar 25, 2018 - 01:35pm PT
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Dan McDevitt
Social climber
tioga cliff or fifi buttress
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Mar 25, 2018 - 03:17pm PT
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Nice Bro!!!
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Wait? what was that picture?
guess that it was just that good ?
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go1dens4
Trad climber
Melbourne, FL
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Ill throw one in there from the east... Hand Job - Red River Gorge...
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Kris,
What/where is that last climb? Looks kinda like Needles? Davy Jones Locker?
West side sierra?
Looks Nice!
Luke
Sorry for the radio silence on that. It's the Emperor Crack on Voodoo Dome at The Needles. Stout at .11c.
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Mr. Natural for sure
Bishops Terrace
Peruvian Flake
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| Messages 1 - 104 of total 104 in this topic |
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